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Melting wax to use bigger container?

Waxman

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I switched to Collinite Doublecoat paste wax recently. Had been using Mothers for years but they changed the formula and I find it too mushy now. It gets on trim and our wax jobs look like a 5 year old did them, so I am done with Mothers.

Since I like to cut in the edges by hand and then use my d/a to apply the wax, I need the paste in a bigger container.

questions:

1. does gently and slowly melting the wax diminish it in any meaningful way?
2. what type container should I use? Tupperware? Metal?

thanks!
 

rph9168

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Melting the product degrades the wax, expecially if it is done more than once.
 

rph9168

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The product was heated to bring it together, then cooled. Melting or reheating it works to break it back down at least partially depending on how much it is heated. Solvents used in the formula may also evaporate ultimately reducing some of the cleaning capabilities and making it a little harder to use when it returns to a paste. You would be much better off trying to find a paste designed to be soft that meets your needs rather than heating a solid one.
 

Pro-Techt

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Noting that I'm not a chemist>>>

Every time I've seen or heard of someone altering the chemistry of an exisiting wax/sealant/polish formulation (by reheating it), it ends up causing a mess. There are sequences of mixing/emulsifying/pouring that manufacturers use to correctly get their final concoction. If you change or alter that you end up degrading the infustructure of the product that the manufacturer created. (so I'm told)

Why not try a wax/sealant that is easier to apply? One that doesn't stain trim and goes on thin and either doesn't require removal or is easy to remove?

Collinite makes some pretty durable waxes, but there are much easier and longer lasting products out there. Just saying...
 

pitzerwm

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I guess it stands to reason that heating it up might change the stuff, couldn't you just scoop it out of the small container and put it into the bigger container?
 

Waxman

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Noting that I'm not a chemist>>>

Every time I've seen or heard of someone altering the chemistry of an exisiting wax/sealant/polish formulation (by reheating it), it ends up causing a mess. There are sequences of mixing/emulsifying/pouring that manufacturers use to correctly get their final concoction. If you change or alter that you end up degrading the infustructure of the product that the manufacturer created. (so I'm told)

Why not try a wax/sealant that is easier to apply? One that doesn't stain trim and goes on thin and either doesn't require removal or is easy to remove?

Collinite makes some pretty durable waxes, but there are much easier and longer lasting products out there. Just saying...
Okay. Suggest one where a 6" pad will fit in the can.
 

smokun

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Back-To-The-Future?

The re-pour you're considering is not a viable option because tampering with the chemical integrity and stability usually ends badly. However, I understand your desire for a more streamlined method of going from product container to car body. It was done by a regional cleaner-wax company in Southern California in the 70's specifically for that feature: large head orbital bonnet would fit into a large tin of paste wax. It was unique and practical when all orbitals had the same size bonnet head. Times and marketplace demand has shifted away from it. The supplier actually packaged the product that way, so the chemical integrity remained intact. The only company that comes to mind that might know more about the extra-large tin is Gem, the original orbital buffer company (but not the original owners), now located in South Florida: 1-800-447-4GEM. Very nice people!

You may wish to refocus on a more contemporary application process and use a pneumatic spray application prior to buffing. Using a paste or even a gel is often too cumbersome, so liquid or even lotion thickness can work quite well with pneumatic applicators similar to spray guns.

Hope this helps! ;)
 
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Waxman

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What are the best products to use in a sprayer? Does the overspray travel? What spray gun? HVLP? PSI used?
 
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