Mounting things on PVC wall panels

[OurTown]

We have new Delpro 3/8" thick, 16" wide PVC wall panels and are about to mount signs, mat clamps, wand holders and booms. We were thinking of using double sided mounting tape for the signs. Good idea or bad? If good then what do you guys recommend for the tape? How is it to remove the signs later? Do you guys directly mount the mat holders and wand holders over the PVC and just tighten enough to not crush it? The only booms we need to mount on the walls are the Air Shammee booms. Should I cut the wall panels around the brackets and mount them directly to the wall? Also there are triple foam hose brackets we need to attach up high.

 

[Greg Pack]

For bay function signs I use clear silicone and tape them up with painter's tape for a day. The following day, I remove the tape and run a super thin bead of silicone around the edge of the sign. If you don't do this they will get washed off as when your attendant is washing the walls they will lossen them up. I use clear, it seems white eventually changes color and sticks out more

Since the menu signs come pre-drilled I often use white plastic tap in anchors.

Many years ago I had an equipment installer that used 5/16 plastic anchors and a #14 Phillips head stainless screw and washer for all bay hardware-. They have held up surprisingly well on mat clamps and the gun holders. A couple of the foam brush hangers eventually came loose after 5-10 years and I replaced with standard sleeve anchors.

 

[Jim64]

I had the same question and was able to ask Keith at the Delpro booth in Nashville. They make a pvc ring to place in the panel then drill inside the ring for the anchor. The plan is to give support so that the panel will not collapse when the anchor is tightened. May be with a look.

 

[Eric H]

I use 3M VHB (very high bond) tape to hang most signs.
Mat clamps and wand/brush holders get screws/bolts depending on their weight or function. My FB holder just uses a Nylon anchor and a long Stainless Steel screw. Heavier items get a wedge anchor with either nylon spacers like what Jim64 mentioned or a stack of SS washers.
Edit to add: I added Azec behind the foam brush holders because someone pulled the bracket out of the wall. I just cut away the PVC, then cut a rabbit on the Azec so it overlays the paneling by 1/2” all the way around

 

[Greg Pack]

Not sure why my thumbnails are not showing up but I snapped a few pictures of my bay. The extrutech was installed in 2006 and still looks pretty good. The signage was redone maybe five years ago. The clear silicone has yellowed a bit. I’m in a warm region and no major vandalism concerns at this wash. View attachment IMG_1504.jpeg View attachment IMG_1505.jpeg View attachment IMG_1503.jpeg

 

[OurTown]

I had the same question and was able to ask Keith at the Delpro booth in Nashville. They make a pvc ring to place in the panel then drill inside the ring for the anchor. The plan is to give support so that the panel will not collapse when the anchor is tightened. May be with a look.

Does Delpro make those plastic rings? I didn't see them on their website.

 

[Jim64]

I assumed that they made them, I know that they definitely sell them. They are cut to the same thickness as the panels. Keith showed them to me along with mounting screws they also sell. He told me just let him know how many I would need and they would be shipped with the panels.

 

[Blanco]

Anything that vibrates or anything a customer handles I always cut out the panel and j trim. Mount directly to block. I'll attach a pic of recent install of one of my machines and you can see the unistrut at bottom and wall brackets for machine j trimmed mounted to block.

 

[DiamondWash]

When I installed anything to the extrutech wall panels, we cut a hole in the wall and installed these to help support the weight otherwise I've seen operators just install tapcon screws and crush the wall in and it looks like crap and eventually the wall cracks.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

When I mounted anything substantial to the panels, I would make a 1" hole with a hole saw, and insert a stainless steel 5/8" nut. It's a perfect fit for the hole and almost the exact thickness of the panel. You could tighten down as much as you wanted and no risk of them squashing.

 

[OurTown]

When I mounted anything substantial to the panels, I would make a 1" hole with a hole saw, and insert a stainless steel 5/8" nut. It's a perfect fit for the hole and almost the exact thickness of the panel. You could tighten down as much as you wanted and no risk of them squashing.

Did you have 1/2" thick panels? I'm pretty sure those nuts are thicker than our 3/8" panels.

 

[OurTown]

When I mounted anything substantial to the panels, I would make a 1" hole with a hole saw, and insert a stainless steel 5/8" nut. It's a perfect fit for the hole and almost the exact thickness of the panel. You could tighten down as much as you wanted and no risk of them squashing.

I found some SS jam nuts that are 3/8" thick.


https://boltdepot.com/Product-Details?product=4125

 

[Randy]

We used something like these when we did the last time we put up paneling.
https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-sp...7/i/G1808344/?variantSelection=overall-length
Shortly after the last time we put up some A holes took the foam brush and got great pleasure in smashing holes in the paneling.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Did you have 1/2" thick panels? I'm pretty sure those nuts are thicker than our 3/8" panels.

They were Extrutech. I’m almost positive they were 1/2” thick. The 5/8 nut was maybe a 32th of an inch shorter, so whatever you were fastening, snugged down perfectly.

 

[Earl Weiss]

We used something like these when we did the last time we put up paneling.

Shortly after the last time we put up some A holes took the foam brush and got great pleasure in smashing holes in the paneling.

That - along with Graffiti scratchers is why I use pebble finish FRP.

 

[pgrzes]

Anything rigid that we mount we take pvc pipe and cut a bunch of 1/2" spacers to put behind anything. Use a holesaw the size of the spacer and now you have something to secure without crushing and costs almost nothing. I never recommend hollow core material in SS bays, its not a matter of if it get a hole punched into it, it's when!! Not easy to make repairs, and you can only add soo many signs to hide holes.

 

[OurTown]

The holes in the mat holders, triple foam gun, and triple foam hose wall bracket all have 5/16" holes. Has anyone used these in block?

https://boltdepot.com/Product-Details?product=10807

Also, trying to miss a mortar joint when drilling is like shooting in the dark.

Another possible issue with these panels that I didn't think about initially: We had previously used the J-hooks for horizontal foam brush handle hanging but now I can see the walls getting banged up from people hanging them back up. We never liked the vertical mount with the tray on the floor because we thought the brushes could stay dirtier sitting in them. Maybe we could still use the J-hooks and put a backer like Eric did but the whole length of the area where they hang.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I had the best luck with these.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[Greg Pack]

Another possible issue with these panels that I didn't think about initially: We had previously used the J-hooks for horizontal foam brush handle hanging but now I can see the walls getting banged up from people hanging them back up. We never liked the vertical mount with the tray on the floor because we thought the brushes could stay dirtier sitting in them. Maybe we could still use the J-hooks and put a backer like Eric did but the whole length of the area where they hang.

I have J hooks and this has not been a real issue in my extrutech which is approaching 18 years old now. Good customer base though.

 

[STXCW]

We used the spacers supplied by the panel companies in the past but now just use PVC pipe as a spacer for anchoring items that need to be tight like wand holders and mat clamps. For signage, we use 1/4" nylon tap in anchors