New coin changer recommendations

[Mattwash]

I believe I’m at the point that I need to upgrade my coin changer. Right now I have an old Rowe BC200 with Mei acceptor and genesis kit upgrade. It still has the original Rowe Hopper. I continue to have issues about every week or two and believe the problem lies with the hopper jamming. Then it will go 2-3 days before I hear anything about it. Looking at my cameras I’m lose 10-15 customers every time this happens. I really need a more reliable solution.

Here is a picture of my coin changer that was encased in a giant concrete block. The back side has been extremely secure, thus I would prob rebuild it in a similar manner.

Suggestions on what machine you would recommend for an upgrade?

 

[Roz]

Hamilton DRS.

 

[Keno]

We are in the same boat as you with the same exact setup. I'm going to try to install hamilton guts inside the rowe housing if I can make it fit

 

[MEP001]

We are in the same boat as you with the same exact setup. I'm going to try to install hamilton guts inside the rowe housing if I can make it fit

I know for sure you can get a large HSH-Q hopper in a Rowe BC-1400 cabinet. I'm sure you can get the smaller one into a BC-200. Hamilton does make a version of the ER-60 with a taller faceplate to cover the opening left by removing a BC-1400, but I believe the standard ER-60 fits with a little cutting into a BC-200 opening.

 

[Randy]

In your case I'd recommend a Hamilton ER-60 or Hamilton RNS both with a Mas validator.

 

[MEP001]

RNS won't cover the opening, but it does hold twice the quarters.

 

[Mattwash]

I know for sure you can get a large HSH-Q hopper in a Rowe BC-1400 cabinet. I'm sure you can get the smaller one into a BC-200. Hamilton does make a version of the ER-60 with a taller faceplate to cover the opening left by removing a BC-1400, but I believe the standard ER-60 fits with a little cutting into a BC-200 opening.

I see the dimensions for a BC 200 are


Cabinet Dimensions
Height: 23.75 inches (60.33 cm)
Width: 14.75 inches (37.46 cm)
Depth: 18.25 inches (46.35 cm)
Faceplate Dimensions
Height: 27.5 inches (69.85 cm)
Width: 18 inches (45.72 cm)

ER 60 dimensions:
Cabinet & minimum wall opening:
20-3/4' H x 15" W × 13" D
Faceplate:
24-3/4" H x 18" W

Have you seen someone cut the box of an ER 60 to fit in the hole or do they take the inners out and install in a BC 200 box?

Feel like I could just cut the faceplate of my BC 200 so the ER 60 could sit on top and overlap. Then weld it in place. Guess I would have to see the inside of an ER 60 to really know how the inner workings are held in place and they could be secured on the inside of the BC 200 box

 

[Mattwash]

Here is the backside of my box. It’s 1/4” stainless and 3/8” stainless bars that are held into place by puck locks. The door was replaced with 1/4” Corten. Only thing I hate is the puck locks I’m using. Unable to modify without cutting off the boxes that protect them.

 

[Randy]

Instead of doing half a$$. Think about getting a ER-60 with the expanded face plate, it'll cover up your hole and look nice. I've install a lot of bill changers over the years and I always take out the old changer. Most of the time we rebuild the wall so the hole is the correct size. When I get a cheapster who doesn't want to rebuild the wall I get a piece of 1/4" steel plate and make a window frame so to speak to cover the hole, have it power coated and it'll look nice for years.

 

[Mattwash]

Instead of doing half a$$. Think about getting a ER-60 with the expanded face plate, it'll cover up your hole and look nice. I've install a lot of bill changers over the years and I always take out the old changer. Most of the time we rebuild the wall so the hole is the correct size. When I get a cheapster who doesn't want to rebuild the wall I get a piece of 1/4" steel plate and make a window frame so to speak to cover the hole, have it power coated and it'll look nice for years.

I’m not opposed to doing that. Guess I’m just skeptical on how secure the rear locks are on the Hamilton changer.

 

[Mattwash]

We are in the same boat as you with the same exact setup. I'm going to try to install hamilton guts inside the rowe housing if I can make it fit

When are you going to tackle this project? I’m planning on upgrading mine in August, when I have a week off from my work at the hospital.

 

[MEP001]

The rear door of a Hamilton is pretty secure, but not as much as what you have. LockAmerica has a replacement barrel that lets a hockey-puck lock over the Medeco plug for more security. It takes just a few minutes with a grinder and cutoff disk to get the door open.

 

[Mattwash]

The rear door of a Hamilton is pretty secure, but not as much as what you have. LockAmerica has a replacement barrel that lets a hockey-puck lock over the Medeco plug for more security. It takes just a few minutes with a grinder and cutoff disk to get the door open.

Thank you! This is the reason I’m trying to find a way to keep my old rear locks with a new changer.

Since the ER 60 has a cabinet depth of 13” and my old Rowe has a Depth of 18”, wondering if I could cut off the front of the Rowe and insert the ER60. Then it would be double locked. Want to find a way to keep the rear lock from my Rowe.

Or do I just need to build a new concrete block to hold a new changer and reconstruct something similar that would secure the ER60 rear door.

 

[MEP001]

I'd probably just remove the Rowe and install the Hamilton in the same opening, add security of some kind to the new one, and add an alarm to the room. I've been looking at a closed wash that has the room door in the back away from view from the road, and it's been broken into many times. I'd use a camera system and select the area around the door using the system's motion sensor, so anyone that approaches the door at night will set off an alarm and dial me or the police.

 

[Mattwash]

Have you ever looked or know of someone who uses a something like a SimpliSafe alarm? Could place a sensor on the door so if it opens, alarm is triggered. Guess biggest downfall is it doesn’t take long to grab the money and run. Will be gone long before police arrive. Believe this would really work, if there was a second door the thief had to breech.

My change machine is separated from the pump room. Going to redo some concrete work in a couple of months and was look at adding on a small addition where I could place a couple of vending machines, but also thinking about placing a new change machine there. Do you have any theft with your vending machines or soda vending machines?

 

[MEP001]

Have you ever looked or know of someone who uses a something like a SimpliSafe alarm?

SimpliSafe is one of the easiest alarms for crooks to bypass.

 

[Mattwash]

SimpliSafe is one of the easiest alarms for crooks to bypass.

I’m just looking at it from the standpoint that I would need something that alarms the police upon opening a door, not motion from a camera. A camera’s motion would cause false alarm fatigue.

 

[Roz]

I believe I’m at the point that I need to upgrade my coin changer. Right now I have an old Rowe BC200 with Mei acceptor and genesis kit upgrade. It still has the original Rowe Hopper. I continue to have issues about every week or two and believe the problem lies with the hopper jamming. Then it will go 2-3 days before I hear anything about it. Looking at my cameras I’m lose 10-15 customers every time this happens. I really need a more reliable solution.

Here is a picture of my coin changer that was encased in a giant concrete block. The back side has been extremely secure, thus I would prob rebuild it in a similar manner.

Suggestions on what machine you would recommend for an upgrade?

I may sell my Hamilton ER-50 (rear door) with the XE bill acceptor and large bill holder, but only after the new changer arrives. Works well but we are moving to a dual changer for redundancy.

 

[Randy]

We don’t lock our changers for the simple reason the cost of replacing the cabinet is more than the amount of money that’s inside the changer or have someone pry the $hit out it and damage the components inside. A Hamilton DRS cabinet is $2750 plus shipping, there isn’t that much money inside it. The little ER-60 cabinet is $1425.00 plus, it only holds $800 so why lock it. I’ve fixed god only knows how many bill changers that have been destroyed by thieves cutting and trying to pry them open. Our back doors are all gated and the door it’s self is alarmed. You’re dreaming if you think the police are going to get notified when your alarm goes off. The police don’t get notified until the alarm company calls the police that can be upwards of 5 minutes, you have to pay a monthly subscription for that service. Our alarm in the equipment room is so loud it hurts your ears. We pull the coins and cash from all the equipment and coin boxes every day. I’ve watched videos of the thieves come and drop a coin into the coin slot and listen to the sound it makes, you can hear a different sound when it’s full of coins.

 

[Earl Weiss]

Our alarm company calls us right away. I then check the cameras. One smart burglar set off the door alarm Then watched and saw no police came (Because he did not go in) Alarm re set and it went off again - door and then motion sensor and this time I saw him and called the cops. He must have had a lookout because he kept his cell phone to his ear the whole time. Cops got him coming out. He got 5 years. If changers were unlocked he would hve been gone with the cash.