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Yes I did replace the tiny one. Took a little figuring on taking that section apart, but done no damage.
What's the low pressure spring model used for?I tried rebuilding a few and they either leaked again right away or only lasted a few months before they started leaking again. I'm pretty sure the inside of the cylinder wore rough and the o-ring couldn't seal in it properly. I just replace them and don't rebuild. If you want one that's cheaper, easier to rebuild, and holds a kit better, try the SMC one.
555 Series Pressure Regulator | SMC Regulator Valves 5550090
The SMC 5550090 Regulator is a brass regulator with Buna seals and a gold high-pressure spring. 2000 PSI, 7 GPM, 3/8" FPT, 180° F.www.kleen-ritecorp.com
It’s used for a low pressure system that you don’t want or need a lot of pressure for. Like Presoak, Tire cleaner, spot free rinse. I’ve use them on my Presoak system works great.
Don't see a use for low pressure system regulation. I built mine just using air pressure regulators and everything works right all the time.
The one I linked is the direct replacement for the Paraplate BR5-2. I only ever use the low pressure spring model for the spot free with a Procon pump.
In my experience, pretty close to the same life. If you look at just life of the regulators compared to the cost, the SMC comes out ahead.
Yes, the SMC uses a spring. I mentioned earlier that in my experience the Paraplate won't hold a kit after it's been rebuilt, but most I have rebuilt were run until the conical washers were rusted together so the cleaning and rebuild took about a half hour. And the main body of the Paraplate isn't stainless, it's plated brass, so it does erode, most likely why it won't hold a kit.
I've mostly used the low pressure one on spot-free delivery pumps with zero problems. I haven't used the high pressure ones myself, but I've worked on many car washes that have both the SMC and JE Adams of the same style, and the SMC are clearly much older and still working properly.
Leaking is the early sign. After a while the conical washers will start to rust, at which point the pressure will build too high with the gun's trigger not pulled.
Thank you. Is there a trick while changing them? I know how to adjust the pressure by tightening/loosening the nut on the top, but do I need to try to get the nut as close as possible to the bad one before running the pump? Or no I'm overthinking this? Just change to the new one, use Rinse function and adjust the nut to desired psi (mine are all at 1200)
