Pre-Soak a waste of time on friction?

[soonermajic]

Do you guys think 1 & 2 step P-S process is a waste of time on a friction IBA?
I do. As a matter of fact, on my SoftGloss, we don't do any Pre-Soak, & it doesn't effect the outcome at all.

What's yalls thoughts...?

 

[I.B. Washincars]

In 14 years of owning a friction auto, I never used anything but the generic foam brush soap I used in the SS bays.

 

[Kramerwv]

Sooner I think you answered your own question - if no difference in results then less product cost and more importantly quicker wash cycle. Win-win if it works for you.

 

[mac]

Look at it this way, mainly because those of you who see no difference. NO automatic will get every surface clean. I operate one of the better ones but there are places like under the little extension at the rear of many SUVs or by side view mirrors that the brushes simply don’t touch. It all depends on the quality you want to sell.

 

[soonermajic]

Yeh Mac, & those areas don't get cleaned by adding Pre-Soak either. You have to have an attendant to get those 2 areas clean.

 

[Greg Pack]

I would use an alkaline. Alkaline Presoak is going to help with bugs and those marginal areas where the brushes "glance" the surface but don't fully contact. I think you will get a better overall car for .25 product cost. Instead of a low ph presoak you could use a low ph shampoo to get rid of alkalinity, or inject low ph into your rinse water.

 

[soonermajic]

I would use an alkaline. Alkaline Presoak is going to help with bugs and those marginal areas where the brushes "glance" the surface but don't fully contact. I think you will get a better overall car for .25 product cost. Instead of a low ph presoak you could use a low ph shampoo to get rid of alkalinity, or inject low ph into your rinse water.

So are you suggesting an alkaline PS, & then low ph Shampoo/lubricant?

 

[Greg Pack]

So are you suggesting an alkaline PS, & then low ph Shampoo/lubricant?

Yes, you will get a shinier, drier car finishing off with low ph products

 

[DavidM]

I agree with Greg. High pH presoak and low pH brush lubricant/soap for the best results. The low pH is essential for getting a dryer car. This is what most tunnels do as well. If your presoak isn't making a difference, try a better presoak.

David

 

[washnshine]

Don’t own a SoftGloss but seen plenty of them. Can you put hi pH on with the foam bath and then feed the brushes with the neutral/lubricating soap?

That’s basically what us tunnel guys do - put the hi pH on the car with the first arch and then feed wraps and mitters with a foamy detergent. Either neutral or lower pH.

 

[soonermajic]

On my SoftGloss i am
JBS Fonic for lubricating
JBS Glowfoam for 3x foam
Quest Shine On for ColorWave (lava wax)
Kidd Wash Rain Coat ccp

Cars come out clean dry shiny & paint is slick as a hand wax job

 

[Kramerwv]

[QUOTE="soonermajic, post: 142860,

Cars come out clean dry shiny & laint is slick as a hand wax job

sounds like you’re done

 

[WashSingh]

I have a friction machine and was wondering if friction soap was even necessary? My wash cycles is as follows:

First Pass: Tri-Foam
Second Pass: White Foam
Third Pass: Brushes with "Brush Water" or water from nozzles
Fourth: Wax & Rinse
Fifth: Dry
Sixth: Dry

Friction soap was initially set on the third pass with the brushes, but I noticed that when the third pass was done there was still a significant amount of soap still on the car. By changing the Third pass to Brush and Brush Water, it made the fourth pass of wax and rinse easier to wash the soap off the car.

 

[washnshine]

IMHO I would keep the detergent on during the pass with brushes. It will help significantly with lubrication, reduce noise and possible incidents. Maybe if rinsing is a problem switch to a lower foaming and or lower pH product. Or possibly add another rinse pass if possible.

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

I know it is a little different, but at my self serve using PS prior to FB definitely results in a cleaner car, so that is what I recommend to customers that like to use the FB. I use a high ph presoak.

I also recall conversations here on the forum about regional differences between soils on cars, meaning that a PS that works in my area might not work well for you. So you might want to consider testing with different presoaks to see if your results change; I personally wouldnt be satisfied without empirical results at my specific wash.

 

[Waxman]

On my SoftGloss i am
JBS Fonic for lubricating
JBS Glowfoam for 3x foam
Quest Shine On for ColorWave (lava wax)
Kidd Wash Rain Coat ccp

Cars come out clean dry shiny & paint is slick as a hand wax job

Sounds like a $25 package to me...

 

[soonermajic]

Sounds like a $25 package to me...

Waxy, man I sure wish. It is $12 & is 60--65% of our 3 pkgs. I bought thisnplace 2 yrs ago, had 1 Ryko OHD, & was $5,$6, $7!! I went up to $6, $8, $9, $10 & offered full prep service on $9/$10 only. Customers love that & give big tips.
Put in SoftGloss 18 mos ago & went $8, $10, $12 & had complaints for a month. No more complaints & customers love their cars.
I forgot to add Kidd Wash TC/Wheel Blaster. The JBS Fonic is CHEAP & GlowFoam is pretty cheap. Shine On & RainCoat are both is awesome & concentrated, so fairly economical(but not cheap) & get great results.
How I figure, top pkg runs me about $1.75 ish...I reckon i could be off by as much as .20 cents either way...? Son85% profit margin is wonderful.