prox switch errors

[Reds]

I hope I can explain this WW2.0 erratic problem properly. It started with a home prox error. Then within the next hour a wheel count prox 2 error. Then it alternated between wheel count errors and home prox errors. I kept getting a wheel prox 2 error. So I replaced that prox. Still the same problem. Then I noticed that light #7 on the input card in the gantry panel was lit dimly when the prox was not on. So I switched out the prox - same problem. So I put in a new cable. Now the lights for the wheel counts look to work properly, but I keep getting bad wheel test counts. Also noticed another problem - the gantry is slamming into the stop at the home end of the track. If I put the gantry panel switch on override I can move the gantry back and forth and the moment the home prox goes over the tubing "trigger" it lights up. Consistently. But, when I put the machine in wheel test mode and watch it the prox light does not come on until the gantry slams against the stop (in home position). At that point the prox has traveled over the tubing trigger for about 8". I changed the prox - same problem. I moved the gantry and waved something under the home prox and it lights up every time. Only does not light when it is in wheel test mode or washing a car. Any thoughts or ideas?

 

[Reds]

couln't edit my thread, so here is a little more info: the home prox errror message is no longer popping up. When I put the gantry in override and run it back and forth the home prox lights instantly when it gets over the trigger and then stops the gantry within a couple inches. But when I run it in wheel test mode or wash a car in it the home prox light doesn't light until the gantry slams into the stop at the end of the track.

 

[Tom Thumb]

Check clearance between the prox and the trigger, to much clearance will cause gantry to overide the trigger.
Just an idea.

 

[Reds]

I tried playing with the clearance on the wheel count prox's and the home prox. Opened the gap up and then closed the gap up. No change. I also tried wiggleing the counting wheel to see if it could be moving during travel and losing "contact". But I could not get the lights to go out no matter how much I wiggled the wheel. What really confuses me is how/why the home prox lights up immediately when I throw the override switch and run the gantry back and forth. But when in wheel count test mode or wash mode the home prox does not light up until the gantry slams the end of track stop. And it hits the stop hard.

 

[Reds]

I believe that I have this fixed. I replaced both wheel proxes - same problem. Replaced home prox - same problem. But I discovered that the counting wheel had a bad wobble. When I removed it the plastic wheel had actually worn the stainless axle very badly. I cannot imagine how a plastic wheel can wear a stainless shaft. I replaced the wheel and axle and all 3 prox switch cables this morning. It seems to have fixed the problem - consistently good wheel counts and no more slamming into the gantry track stop. It is raining here so I had no customers in there today, but I ran my truck thru several times with no problems. Also lots of track tests with no problems. Hopefully I have it whipped.

 

[Greg Pack]

I thought I would mention this for troubleshooting in the future. I have had problems in the past that didn't show up during track tests, but would show up during the wash. The track test is performed at the slow speed, which makes no sense to me. I think it should be performed under the more demanding condition of a fast speed. Anyway, when i have a count wheel problem I sometimes reprogram my drive motor VFD to perform a track test at faster speeds. Takes just a few minutes and can make it easier to find the gremlin.

 

[cleaning up mud]

My gantry did that, slamed pasted the home plate, it was the omron card that was bad. Got a new one and had my old one repaired at, I forgot the name, but it was worth it.

 

[Reds]

this problem is still haunting me. I have been shut down most of the last 2 weeks. I have replaced wheel proxes+cables, home prox+cable, counting wheel and axle. Gantry was making noise and acting funny when it was moving so i replaced all 4 wheels and all the bearings. Now it is quiet. And it ran 4 track tests today with no problems. But - my son ran his car thru after we were done the wheel swaps. It cut the triple foam pass short, then finished the rest of the wash. I ran my truck in there and the gantry stayed still (quiet, no drive motors running) but it went thru a condensed wash. Every pass in the recipe, but each pass for only 5 seconds while it was sitting still. When I looked at the red lion it had lots of prox and eye errors on it. Then after scrolling thru the alarms I went back in and it only had one alarm for the profiling eye. Nothing makes sense - the distributor is coming out tomorrow to look at it. This is way beyond me.

 

[Greg Pack]

Not sure what you have replaced but I would check Counting wheel proxes, counting wheel cables, and input card.

Also end of track prox and cable. when end of track signal is reached it's going to start another pass. I will also mention that I had a problem a couple years ago with Turk prox switches. When it got cold (below about 40 degrees) they would turn on intermittently. I finally caught it on a very cold morning in the 20s when they were "on" with no target present. when you heated them up the light went off.

Check your power cable going to gantry at all bends. Specifically the one supplying 24 DC. If you have a short it could show up as multiple errors due to the voltage drop. Wouldn't hurt to check the comm cable too, but that is not the likely culprit.

 

[Greg Pack]

well, I mispoke on the two seperate cables, but anyway-check the cable.

 

[Greg Pack]

Reds, any luck?

 

[Reds]

I found that the light on the input card (in gantry box) for the end of track prox was dimly lit some of the time. So I swapped out the eye and the cable. That seems to have fixed the problem. I believe I had a bunch of prox, counting wheel, cable, and drive wheel problems that all contributed to the mess. The only problem left was the scrolling signs on both of my WW were scrolling the wrong message. The distributor was there today and got everything straightened out. So I am up and running without any issues at the moment. Washed a fairly good amount of cars today without any problems. Thanks for your input.

 

[Reds]

cfcw - the distributor did exactly what you mentioned about speeding up the VFD to run the track tests. He showed me how to do that so that next time I can try it right off the bat if I need to.

 

[Reds]

One other thing - both of these WW were sitting in waist deep flood water in September (tropical storm Lee) for 2 1/2 days. I suspect that the water seeped into the prox switches, eyes, and cable connections and now that issue has come back to bite me in the a$$. The gantry panel was above the water, but everything below it was dunked.

 

[Tom Thumb]

Would it be possible too share this process for the rest of us WW owners.
Sounds like a good way to check functions instead of just wheel counts.

Thanks
Tom Thumb

 

[Reds]

Would it be possible too share this process for the rest of us WW owners.
Sounds like a good way to check functions instead of just wheel counts.

Thanks
Tom Thumb

Do you mean the process to speed up the VFD? Or the process of watching the input card lights go on and off and which ones should be on or off depending on where the gantry is. I am not electronically inclined so I can repeat what I saw the tech do to speed up the gantry. But be aware that when i try it on my own I am going to have the distributor on the phone to verify that I'm doing it right. It was a pretty simple thing to do. Regarding the input cards they are easy to understand.

 

[Tom Thumb]

I was talking about how to speed up the VDF's.

Thanks

 

[Reds]

We were too busy today for me to "play" with the VFD. So I called the distributor and walked thru the procedure again. I am going to play with it on Monday morning - I want to make sure that the dist is open in case I screw something up - and run thru the process. I want to do it because I only watched over the tech's shoulder and I need to do it once myself, then write down the procedure for future use. I will post the procedure as soon (Monday) as I am confident that I am giving good advice.

 

[Reds]

Here's how to speed up the Omron/Yaskawa VFD: Push the "display" button (may have a paper clip looking icon instead of the word display) until "PRGM" (program) light is lit. Then push "Enter" button (may have a fish hook looking icon instead of the word enter). The display should show n01 - DO NOT HIT THE ENTER BUTTON AT THIS POINT - use the arrow button to arrow up to n22. Push the "Enter" button after you have n22 on the display. The display should read 30 if it is still set at the factory setting. Use the arrow button to increase the display to 60. then push the enter button. Then push the "Display" button again to get the green light lit on the display. It is easier than it sounds - you use the display button to get to programming mode, hit enter, then arrow up to parameter # n22 then enter, then arrow key to raise the number to 60, then enter, then display. Don't forget to change it back to 30 when you are done your wheel count tests. The green light has to be lit for it to work.

 

[Tom Thumb]

Reds,
Thanks for the info. that looks like it can come in handy.