Pump recommendations

[Kev109]

Hi all

We have been using the Grime fighter 6700 pumps on our foam brush. They have done fine but I had to replace one recently. I see alot of people like flow jets and they are cheaper. But do they last as long? I would pay a little more for reliability so which one lasts the longest.

Thanks
Kevin

 

[MEP001]

ARO is one of the better air-operated pumps, but as long as you supply a Flojet clean, dry air it will last a long time. Mine last five to seven years.

 

[Randy]

The ARO pumps are a good pump until the air shuttle wears out in the air valve and the pump stalls. We replaced all of the ARO pumps we had years ago. We use a Flo-jet G55 pump now, some operators like the G57. If you have a small car wash a N51000 pump will work or a T51000 pump. We run the pumps at around 40psi. If your pumping presoak or tire cleaner it's best to use a electric Procon pump, we run that pump at around 125psi

 

[Rudy]

Do you know what actually wears out?

I've got 8 ARO pumps at my wash. They are almost trouble free.

When the pump starts to "slow" down....I found that replacing the O-rings and seals in the air shuttle...gives the pump a new life.

Instead of buying (the expensive) ARO air service kit, I get the o-rings and seals online (theoringstore.com). The orings cost pennies, and both seals can be replaced for less than $10. It takes less than 5 minutes to fix. BTW....I usually find the old orings and seals somewhat "gooey" when servicing....so I do believe this is likely the source of a pump "slowing" down.

If you need the part numbers....let me know, and I'll look them up.

 

[Kev109]

Thanks everyone for the advise.

Hey Rudy if you can get the part numbers that would be great. It would help me and maybe someone else too

 

[Randy]

The ARO pumps worked great for a while then they started to stall. The only way to get them to work again was to relieve the air pressure and they’d work again. We changed the “O” rings in the air valve a number of times, they’d work again for a while and then they’d stall out again after a few months. We were given the opportunely to field test the Flo-jet G57 series pumps for Flo-jet and gave up on the ARO pumps. Now we use a Flo-jet G55 pump, internally they are the same as the G57, the only difference is the inlet and outlet fittings are stainless steel, they last just as long as the G57 and are a lot less expensive.

 

[Rudy]

My ARO pumps are 66605J-344 teflon models (1/2" non-metalic).

Here's a cut/paste of my order from theoringstore.com:

34 ea.	AS568-116 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring	$1.02
100 ea.	AS568-014 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring	$1.10
30 ea.	AS568-014 V75 Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings 75 Durometer Black	$2.10
30 ea.	AS568-014 V90 Fluorocarbon FKM 90 Duro O-Rings	$2.70
25 ea.	AS568-116 B90 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 90 Duro O-Ring	$1.25
3 ea.	HRU12-1.18-12 Homogeneous U-Seals	$7.47
3 ea.	U125-0.750-125B High Performance Polyurethane U-Cup	$13.26

As you can see, the orings are cheap. I ordered different hardness and materials to try since they are so cheap. I can't tell much difference in operation between the different materials. The large quantities were due to minimum order size.

The seals fit and work perfectly in the air section.

Enough parts to repair 3 air sections at 1/2 the cost of one ARO air section kit.

 

[Markkkk]

I recommend these brands of pumps,Becker pump,Boshan pump and KNF Vacuum pump. I hope they will be helpful to you.

 

[soonermajic]

The ARO pumps worked great for a while then they started to stall. The only way to get them to work again was to relieve the air pressure and they’d work again. We changed the “O” rings in the air valve a number of times, they’d work again for a while and then they’d stall out again after a few months. We were given the opportunely to field test the Flo-jet G57 series pumps for Flo-jet and gave up on the ARO pumps. Now we use a Flo-jet G55 pump, internally they are the same as the G57, the only difference is the inlet and outlet fittings are stainless steel, they last just as long as the G57 and are a lot less expensive.

Randy,
U got a link to those 2 pumps? I can't find the G55, to compare them...

 

[UtahYoutubeGuy]

My ARO pumps are 66605J-344 teflon models (1/2" non-metalic).

Here's a cut/paste of my order from theoringstore.com:

34 ea.	AS568-116 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring	$1.02
100 ea.	AS568-014 B70 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 70 Duro O-Ring	$1.10
30 ea.	AS568-014 V75 Fluorocarbon FKM O-Rings 75 Durometer Black	$2.10
30 ea.	AS568-014 V90 Fluorocarbon FKM 90 Duro O-Rings	$2.70
25 ea.	AS568-116 B90 (NBR) Buna-N Nitrile 90 Duro O-Ring	$1.25
3 ea.	HRU12-1.18-12 Homogeneous U-Seals	$7.47
3 ea.	U125-0.750-125B High Performance Polyurethane U-Cup	$13.26

As you can see, the orings are cheap. I ordered different hardness and materials to try since they are so cheap. I can't tell much difference in operation between the different materials. The large quantities were due to minimum order size.

The seals fit and work perfectly in the air section.

Enough parts to repair 3 air sections at 1/2 the cost of one ARO air section kit.

Thanks for posting this. I have two of these exact same model Aro pumps off my Carolina Pride pump stand and they were both spitting chemical out the side. Does your list from above include those large seals around the largest part of the pump where the bolts and nuts go?

I was actually trying to find the seal kit on kleenrite for this pump but I couldnt find it for this model of pump anyway.

 

[MEP001]

If the pump is leaking chemical, either the housing is cracked or there's chemical backing up into the air lines and exiting through the exhaust. A seal kit will be a waste of time and money.

 

[Rudy]

My list is for the AIR side....not the fluid side.

FWIW, I've only had a set of diaphragms fail once. In my experience, it's uncommon. I've bought new pumps on eBay for less than the cost of replacement teflon diaphragms.

Most of my past issues involve the air seals wearing/getting gummy. This slows or stalls the plastic shuttle. Replacing the air seals (on my list above) usually makes the pump run like new.

If you have fluids leaking....you have other issues like MEP said.

 

[UtahYoutubeGuy]

If the pump is leaking chemical, either the housing is cracked or there's chemical backing up into the air lines and exiting through the exhaust. A seal kit will be a waste of time and money.

I actually have two of these pumps that spit chemical out where the black and grey join. Worth it to try and rebuild?

 

[MEP001]

It's more likely that you have/had a bad check valve in the bay letting high pressure back to the pump.

It will cost you more for the kits than it will for a new Flojet. Rebuild it if you want, but it isn't going to leak there without a reason.

 

[Rudy]

I've had that happen when the end caps get warped due to overtightening. I've also had that happen when disassembling and the reassembling the diaphragms. These pumps seem to be very pissy when it comes to reassembly. That's why I don't mess with the wet ends, and only rebuild the air side.

 

[UtahYoutubeGuy]

I had this flojet I got from a guy that was using it for his automatic. My next question @MEP001 is the flojet is a 7gpm and the Aro I pulled out was 13 gpm. I have 4 bays and I tested it with two running at the same time which seemed fine but the changover time seems to be a little long.

 

[MEP001]

I have 4 bays and I tested it with two running at the same time which seemed fine but the changover time seems to be a little long.

The changeover time is because of the adjustments. A Flojet can run six bays with no problem.

The Flojet needs to be mounted vertically, not flat on its back.