Razor no longer communicating with door

[slash007]

One of my Razors does not seem to be communicating with the exit door at one of my sites. I can open/close the door manually, but nothing I do on the Razor screen has an effect on it. The entrance door to the same machine has no issues. What can I look for as the cause?

Thanks.

 

[Eric H]

Go to “I/o forces” and find the buttons to force the door down or up. On a Razor 3 it is under Maintenance menu, then to the second screen (hit next button) then option 5.
a Razor EDGE machine is a similar process but I don’t know from memory which buttons to push. If you can force the downs up and down from the UCC it is either a program if problem or a door operator/controls issue.
To check programming go to “program menu”, “cold climate”, then “doors” and check the temperature settings.
NOTE: if you can’t force the doors down using the I/O forces you can also check the ice cube relay in the UCC. I don’t have the wiring diagram with me so I can’t give you a circuit/relay number.

 

[slash007]

I traced the wires and it turned out one wago connector was covered in water in the bay box up top. Appreciate you chiming in. Thanks.

 

[Roz]

I traced the wires and it turned out one wago connector was covered in water in the bay box up top. Appreciate you chiming in. Thanks.

The boxes WW uses inside the wash bay are not great as water can often seep inside, especially the one for the speaker.

 

[OurTown]

Drilling a hole in the bottom of the box might help by draining what water gets in there.

 

[Waxman]

As soon as my car wash installation was complete I went around to all the electrical boxes in the bay and wrapped them with poly plastic. Looks kind of trashy but the goal is to keep things running and dry and I have enough experience to know that extra waterproofing is worth it.

 

[slash007]

Drilling a hole in the bottom of the box might help by draining what water gets in there.

That was my plan. Drill a small hole in the bottom and hope that it will at least not allow water to build up high enough to drown the fittings. Lots of connections in that box with the door controls.

 

[Waxman]

I understand the logic of drilling a drain hole but maybe put a long tube on it to keep water from entering via that hole.

That's why I much prefer Macgyvering the electrical boxes in the bay using poly plastic, cable ties and tape. Just a bit of extra protection to keep the splashes off the box itself because those waterproof gaskets are good but not perfect.

I got alot of experience keeping my old Side Trac 700R running utilizing this method. It works. Once I found tons of water in waterproof boxes I went Macgyver and it did help alot. It's ugly, but it works.

 

[Keno]

I understand the logic of drilling a drain hole but maybe put a long tube on it to keep water from entering via that hole.

That's why I much prefer Macgyvering the electrical boxes in the bay using poly plastic, cable ties and tape. Just a bit of extra protection to keep the splashes off the box itself because those waterproof gaskets are good but not perfect.

I got alot of experience keeping my old Side Trac 700R running utilizing this method. It works. Once I found tons of water in waterproof boxes I went Macgyver and it did help alot. It's ugly, but it works.

Have you thought of using an industrial type heat shrink? Would probably give the same protection and look much cleaner.

 

[Waxman]

No I didn't even know there was an industrial shrink.

 

[Keno]

No I didn't even know there was an industrial shrink.

Uline carries in different thicknesses, probably available on amazon and ebay too. The clear stuff they use to wrap case pack bottles and other goods would probably be a good thickness and look good.