Rebuild Kits for Cat Pumps

[Buzzie8]

I just bought an old self serve car wash that went into foreclosure. The guy did not winterize after he went bankrupt. After fixing most of the plumbing due to freeze damage I was able to start the 6 small CAT pumps I have on an older Mark VII pump stand. All but one works and the one that is not is leaking water from underneath where there seems to be a plastic type reservoir. I want to tear the pump down and rebuild but that I might see what was involved before I did it. Are there parts available for older CAT pumps? (Can't seem to find a model #). Also, should I rebuild or just try to fix leak? Lastly, where do you buy parts? Off CAT or distributor?
Thanks,
Buzzie 8

 

[Jim Caudill]

Parts are available from Kleenrite, Dultmeier, Windtrax, etc. It may not be worthwhile to try and do a rebuild. If the pumps froze, the ceramic pistons may be cracked. If the pumps are real old, the heads may be "washed out". You can buy the special socket to change seals in the heads, and I belive Cat or someone even offers a video on changing seals. Basically you are probably looking at a cermaic piston to seal leakage. If water has gotten into the pump, and the oil inside looks like snot, buy a new pump. I have been favoring the Arimitsu replacement. It takes a conversion kit to plug an Arimitsu in where a Cat has been. Helpful James used to post here knows a lot about exactly what is needed. I can't remember whether I got my last Cat 310 from either Windtrax or Kleenrite. As I mentioned, the last pump I bought was Arimitsu.

 

[MEP001]

Take a pic of the pump and post it here - I'm sure many of us can identify it. It's probably either a 310 or 530. A 310 will have two bolts retaining the manifold; a 530 wil have 4. Seal kits and tools are readily available from any of the car wash suppliers, including Kleen-Rite, Windtrax, Dultmeier and Sonny's.

Data sheets that should help you identify:

http://www.catpumps.com/select/pdfs/310.pdf

http://www.catpumps.com/select/pdfs/530.pdf

 

[Buzzie8]

Definitely looks like the 310. I just took the manifold off and it looks as though the pistons are in good shape. The was one bent "O" ring type seal. The only two numbers on the pump were 43339 and N870240. Pump oil does not look contaminated. It looks as though I could get new seals and it will be OK. Should I still rebuild whole pump or can I just replace the seals? Thanks for your help and the photos.

 

[Jim Caudill]

You just change the seals in the head. Anything else is not cost effective.

 

[MEP001]

43339 is the part number for the back cover. N870240 is the serial number which tells where and when it was manufactured.

 

[Buzzie8]

Pump Seals Replaced, now the pump is pulsing

OK, I was able to replace the seals with a seal kit and now the pump is pulsing water at the bay but will maintain a steady 1100 PSI on gauge. I put a new regulator and the local parts guy said he would not use the accumulator that the old Mark VII required. I put the new regulator on without the accumulator and it pulsed (quite violently). I then put the accumulator (new and charge at 600 PSI from Kleenrite) and it still pulsed. The plumbing went in the following order pump connected to regulator then hose to a T with accumulator on one side and the hose out to the bay on the other. Maybe there is still something wrong with the pump. Ready to call in service but would like to save a few $$$. Any ideas?

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Was the head washed out. This being an old and most likely neglected wash, that pump had probably been pulsating forever before it was shut down. I would bet a dollar to a dog turd that the head is washed out. Did you inspect the seal mating area in the head for erosion? If you didn't, you need to yank it back apart. Check the area where the seals sit for grooves or uneven areas, do the same with the valves. Were any of the valves o-rings broken?

 

[Buzzie8]

I had my local Cat Pump dealer look at it before I replaced the seals and there was no mention of a "washed out" head. I read this thread:

http://forum.autocareforum.net/showthread.php?t=1175&highlight=arimitsu

and this has quite a bit of information about what could be causing the problem. I think there is a leak on the feed side of the pump and it is drawing air. I am not sure why the pump has a solenoid type check valve on the feed side. Shouldn't the pump have water feed to all the time? The only thing I can think of is that the solenoids control hot or cold water flowing to the pump. I am going to hook a garden hose up to the inlet side of the pump tomorrow to see if that solves the problem. Also, when you take the feed hose off the pump it seems to have adequate water flowing. I'm assuming when the pump is on it could be pulling air from somewhere.

 

[washnvac]

Did you replace the water feed hose? I have had a situation where it looked like plenty of feed, but when attached to the pump it was sucking the inside of the hose inward causing a restriction of the feed. I always replace the inlet hose at the first sign of pulsation, as it is the easiest and cheapest possible fix. Probably 50% of the time it is the hose. When I replace, I have also upsized from 1/2" to 3/4" to assist in flow.

 

[MEP001]

Have you checked the valves and o-rings?

The accumulator doesn't stop a pump from pulsating, it only helps make it feel smoother at the bay.

 

[Buzzie8]

Stupid me. I inserted one of the valves backwards after replacing the seals. Cost me a day of work. Now I only have five pumps to rebuild. Note to self, valve inserted wrong way will cause bad vibration. Thanks for all your help! Dah!

 

[Buzzie8]

Also, wanted to let you know that I had all six pumps apart to inspect for damage from the freeze. After replacing seals in each pump, I still had the cavitation problem in the other pumps even after the new seals. It turned out that all the pump stations had the flow meters break and leak from the freeze and the pumps were sucking air, once I bypassed the flow meters they all worked great! Thanks for all your help.

 

[Swedes CarWash]

Cat Pump 310

Pump was leaking water & pulsing.
Removed manifold, cleaned and replaced seal kit. Installed new valve kit, New regulator, New feed lines and a New nozzle. Pump now running smooth and no leaks, pressure is great but still pulsing. Can someone HELP?

Johnny G.

 

[MEP001]

You may have a bad valve or debris in a valve. You could have cut a valve o-ring while installing the valves or the manifold could be eroded so badly that an o-ring just blew out again. You could also have a restriction in the water supply to the pump, or a crack in a hose or tubing allowing air to enter the system.

There are many posts on this forum already about identifying and correcting problems with pumps.

 

[Swedes CarWash]

Cat 310

All new valves, checked all o- rings and checked the manafold A- OK. Changed both feed lines, lines are cleared. Plenty of pressure, pump runs so smooth. Is there a video for Cat pumps and where could I find this?

Johnny G.

 

[MEP001]

There is a video for repairing the pumps, but it doesn't help with diagnosing problems. You can get it from whoever sold you the Cat parts.