Rebuild SS Manifolds

[Ayerule]

The current situation is pictured below. It‘s getting to the point where I can‘t change the plungers as they are breaking off. So I have constant leaks in bays and chemical delivery is unreliable.
Looking to put a new setup in, been reading that Kipp is the way to go and add y-strainers.
Are metering manifolds worth it or an added point of failure?

Any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Randy]

We’ve never been big fans of the manifold block assemblies so we build our own manifolds using ¼” Kip solenoid valves, ¼” Tee’s, nipples and needle valve to adjust the flow. Some are over 30 years old and still going, no leaks.

 

[Ayerule]

Sounds like a simple and brilliant idea!
No more “group punishment” of the bays.
Will start drawing up some ideas. Thank you.

 

[MEP001]

Kip block solenoids are much better than the ones Coleman uses. The stem parts are the same as the individual solenoids use, and the entire solenoid cartridge can be changed on the block. The integrated ajdusters aren't very accurate, but they work and aren't usually an issue. I do prefer individual solenoids whenever there's room, and when I use the ones with the adjustment I build the manifold with a 1 1/2" nipple between each tee and turn the solenoid 45° so the adjustment is easily reached. I also prefer separate needle valves, but good ones are expensive. Cheap ones just don't work, they're all brass and the needle itself erodes. These are good:

Kleen-Rite Corporation - 1/4 F x F Metering Valve

1/4 F x F Metering Valve

www.kleen-ritecorp.com

 

[Greg Pack]

Coleman used the GC/CFA solenoid blocks. Up until recently you could order them with nickel plated brass stems. Over the years corrosive products would cause the problems you are probably having with stems breaking and leaking. I have replaced all of them with Stainless stems and they are fine now.

There might be better ways, but new all stainless manifold blocks/stems will not have the problems you are experiencing now. The Coleman system is simple, no frills, and works. I don't have needle valves and really only need one regulator on the air side to control flow of product. If you are a tweaker you might want the needle valves though.

 

[2Biz]

I use both the Kip manifold and individual SS Kips with metering...I've never had an issue with either. Set them and forget them! I also use both Kip manifold and individual in non metering when I have them on air supplies that have an in-line regulator installed. I don't have any issues with them either....You won't go wrong switching out to Kips...

 

[PaulLovesJamie]

We’ve never been big fans of the manifold block assemblies so we build our own manifolds using ¼” Kip solenoid valves, ¼” Tee’s, nipples and needle valve to adjust the flow. Some are over 30 years old and still going, no leaks.

Huh, exactly the opposite for me. I had 1/4" brass T & nipple manifolds for over 20 years, had problems with brass cracking and leaking plus it was less convenient to change the body of washed-out solenoids. I switched to stainless block manifolds about 4-5 years ago, zero maintenance since then. They also take up a lot less space.

 

[Ayerule]

Sounds like I’m switching everything over to Kip.
Just fed up with the GC set up, it’s even worse on the WW1.0. My chemical guy gives me product that is inconsistent. Needle valves will help dial things in, definitely love tweaking things.
Also like the idea of not having to shut down the whole wash to work on one bay.
Thanks guys!

 

[OurTown]

My chemical guy gives me product that is inconsistent.

What chemicals are you using? It might be time to switch.

 

[mjwalsh]

I also prefer separate needle valves, but good ones are expensive. Cheap ones just don't work, they're all brass and the needle itself erodes. These are good:

Kleen-Rite Corporation - 1/4 F x F Metering Valve

1/4 F x F Metering Valve

www.kleen-ritecorp.com

I notice that those above linked appear to be more easily panel mounted also than some. I am thinking our panel mounted metering valves for our hi pressure soap feed never did function that great & are over 30 years old now.

 

[Greg Pack]

it’s even worse on the WW1.0. My chemical guy gives me product that is inconsistent. Needle valves will help dial things in, definitely love tweaking things.

Same issue there. Coleman used a brass block solenoid for their presoak delivery. Eventually corrosive presoak would eat the threads out of the block and the stem would just pop off. The 2.0s use a stainless solenoid made by SMC which has held up very well in my experience You can get a conversion kit for a retrofit on the first generation wizards.

 

[Randy]

We only use stainless steel solenoid valves and heavy walled Tee's and nipples, they hold up well. When we build up a manifold we use "Leak Lock"

Highside Chemicals · Leak Lock

Leak Lock is a state-of-the-art high strength, pipe joint sealant consisting of chemically resistant film formers, plasticers, reinforcing fillers and solvents .

www.highsidechem.com

on the fittings, never had one leak.

 

[Earl Weiss]

....... I don't have needle valves and really only need one regulator on the air side to control flow of product.

Same here.

 

[mjwalsh]

Anybody besides us who has found tiny debri-something on the seat of the soap solenoid that feeds into the high pressure self service pumps?

I am suspicious that it may be more to it than just the soap causing it. We changed from powder to liquid & we still occassionally get debri that requires the solenoid valve to be disassembled & the seat washed off. That means temporarily soap in rinse water until corrected ... very bad ... it helps that we tend to be attended most of the time but still not a good scenario.

 

[MEP001]

Do you not have a screen or strainer in the soap tank or on the soap supply line to the solenoids?

 

[mjwalsh]

There are twelve 1/4" clear plastic tubing routed with metering valves & with john guest fittings etc coming from Specialty Equipments original soap & wax tank that gravity feed for the each of the 6 Cat hi pressure pumps. That is a good idea ... we have inline filters for our presoak, tire-motor, & foaming brush low pressure.

Now the challenge will be to find tiny filters for all 12 of those individual Kip Solenoids. 6 for Wax & 6 for Soap. They should be not to difficult to remove & clean too.

I know on our over 64 hose inlets to our laundromats washing machines there have always been a small inserted at the end of each of the over 64 hoses. They probably have been doing more good than we realized over the years!

 

[MEP001]

Just put a strainer in the tank. This one screws on over a 3/8" nipple.

40 Mesh Basket Strainer | SMC | 3990600

This basket strainer is designed to remove large, potentially damaging particles from car wash fluid lines to protect your expensive equipment.

www.kleen-ritecorp.com

 

[mjwalsh]

I have some screen material that won't rust. I might play with that ... shoving it in the clear poly tube so each individual line is protected just before the Kip solenoid. If any of the 12 gets too plugged ... it seems like a dental tool or a tiny tweezer can yank it out! danger thinking out loud again.

 

[Ayerule]

What chemicals are you using? It might be time to switch.

Usually Peak Performance or Chemex is on the labels. No idea who they are or where it comes from.
The tire cleaner is sometimes in ‘recycled’ jugs and I think that is doing the most damage. There‘s something like coffee grains at the bottom occasionally.

 

[Ayerule]

The 2.0s use a stainless solenoid made by SMC which has held up very well in my experience You can get a conversion kit for a retrofit on the first generation wizards.

Will check that out. I’d prefer swapping out for the auto to keep it simple. Thank you.