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Repair Asphalt where concrete pad ends

S

sparkey

Active member
I am looking for something to repair my asphalt where my concrete pad ends going into my selfserve bays. I am developing a pretty sizable washout from all the spraying down of the bays. Cold patch is not the answer, it just doesn't last. Anyone have any suggestions? I found a product called aquaphalt on the internet that looks promising. I was even thinking of just plain morter to fill the gap?
 
I own a few commercial rental properties as well as my wash now for a year.

Until now, I usually farmed out my sealcoating and crack sealing but this year I'm going to try sealing the cracks myself - better. I noticed the same as you last winter, my first in the business, where water would enter the ground between the concrete & asphalt, eventually freezing and heaving the asphalt up.

You need a HOT POUR rubberized crack sealant. You can buy/use a cheap turkey frier from Home Depot to heat it, but educate yourself on the flashpoint of the product.

Here is what I ordered:

http://www.asphaltkingdom.com/hot-pour-rubberized-crack-filler.html
 
I have found that different patch products have better results. Big Box store was no good but local lumberyard worked better. You may try some different types of cold patch.
 
How sizeable is the washout/damage?

I used cold patch for 5 years or so, it actually worked pretty good for me. I applied it as warm/hot as I could (for example, stored inside for a couple days during winter), tamped it down real good with a heavy asphalt tamper, and spread sand on top.

But a couple months ago I had a paving company come in and replace a 6-8 ft strip around the building, looks much better now.
I had stopped in at the local place where contractors buy asphalt and supplies - they do rent equipment! I thought about renting and doing it myself, but too much labor for my back to rip out the existing stuff.
I might still rent the crack filler and seal coating equipment to do my lot next spring.
 
Etowah
One local guy extended the concrete apron out to about 10 feet and had them put a shallow sort of gutter in the concrete right before it met the asphalt. That was some 20 years ago, and he has had to do no maintenance of the asphalt since. He was able to spray out from the bays to that gutter and then pick up the debris with a broom and dustpan in a couple minutes, so it also cut down on his cleanup time.
 
MEP001 said:
One local guy extended the concrete apron out to about 10 feet and had them put a shallow sort of gutter in the concrete right before it met the asphalt. That was some 20 years ago, and he has had to do no maintenance of the asphalt since. He was able to spray out from the bays to that gutter and then pick up the debris with a broom and dustpan in a couple minutes, so it also cut down on his cleanup time.
Click to expand...

MEP, any chance you can get some pictures of this solution? I've been thinking about doing something like this. Seems that a good solution would almost completely stop the water from getting between the concrete and asphalt.

I've played around with cold patch with mixed results. The best results I've had I used "Henry" roofing tar and cold patch. I spread the tar on the existing asphalt, added the cold patch, heated it with a torch, laid some old realtor signs on the cold patch and rolled over it with my truck. The two bays I did this in front of have lasted for a year so far. Just cold patch with the same process hasn't lasted at all.
 
I should be near that wash tomorrow, I'll try and remember to get pictures. You can actually see it in the Google Earth images:

bW0H8m.jpg
 
The life expectancy of asphalt around here is 20-25 years. If you get more than that out of it it’s a bonus. Cold patch is not permanent repair for asphalt, it’s only a temporary fix. I’ve used just about every asphalt patch made. The best I’ve found is made by Sakrete, Home Depot has it. The secret I’ve found in getting a good patch is to get the mix hot, the hotter the better and tamp down the material so it’s solid, I use a 15lb sledge hammer to pack it down. When we get enough patches we call the asphalt pavers and have them do a permanent repair.
 
Car_Wash_Guy said:
I own a few commercial rental properties as well as my wash now for a year.

Until now, I usually farmed out my sealcoating and crack sealing but this year I'm going to try sealing the cracks myself - better. I noticed the same as you last winter, my first in the business, where water would enter the ground between the concrete & asphalt, eventually freezing and heaving the asphalt up.

You need a HOT POUR rubberized crack sealant. You can buy/use a cheap turkey frier from Home Depot to heat it, but educate yourself on the flashpoint of the product.

Here is what I ordered:

http://www.asphaltkingdom.com/hot-pour-rubberized-crack-filler.html
Click to expand...

My washout is a about 2" wide by 2" deep which is a little large for crack filler. But I am curious how you melt your crack filler? Wonder if a turkey fryer would work?
 
I have been searching for a solution to a section of asphalt in front of my wash for quite a while. After seeing this thread I ordered both Aquaphalt and the Roklin System. I will post some videos of the process after they arrive.
 
Been fighting deteriorating asphalt for 30 years at our wash. The exits are the worst as cars are wet and many times turning to get to the street. Replaced asphalt twice and been patching for years. This year I've changed to concrete but only one bay at a time both entrance and exits to allow for curing. These changes will take me a couple years to get it all done. Our other wash is all concrete from the beginning and we've never had problems. If you can, and I understand the cost and hassles involved, concrete is the way.
 
I have tried Latexite Trowel Patch, QPR cold patch and Black Jack Crack-Stop.... none of them helped and the cold patch looks bad.

I used Quikrete Masonry Cement Type S or Quikrete Crack Resistant Concrete Mix (I believe it is this one?).

Added the quikrete 4/23/2014
14216621917_c7f1cace1f_k.jpg

14399702751_65325d3e0f_z.jpg

This picture was taken on 7/6/2015 looks the same now. Basically a crack at the concrete. I thought it was acceptable? If I remember I will try and take some pictures tomorrow.
19597617022_da31ae6022_o.jpg

2-4" wide and 1-2" deep.
19604611645_6ccb2e62a9_z.jpg
 
Being a carwash owner and I also own a sealcoating and striping business I will let you know this. Anything you put in there will crack and probably cause further damage. Reason being is the expansion rates between the concrete and asphalt are hugely different. When the asphalt was originally installed a felt expansion liner should be installed between the 2 materials. As the asphalt heats up and expands it cannot push the concrete and cracks. Good luck. There are two types of asphalt and concrete, new and cracked!! They all do it, and once its cracked it cant be glued back together(allthough an infra red heater can take care of some issues). Aquaphalt is a very good product but again the expansion rate of asphalt will cause it to break. Hot rubber is the best "repair" because it has so much elasticity, "BUT" with wider cracks you have to be weary of high heels and such as it will always stay soft, We always top hot rubber with sand. I would highly tell you "DO NOT USE A TURKEY FRYER" to heat up the rubber!! Working temps are around 400deg. the stuff is dangerous. Rent a hot box or higher someone to do it!! Agree or disagree, I just wanted to share.
 
I believe I tried a rubber repair? Crack Rite Crack Stick. It was easy to install.... But I assume I did not use enough Crack? The rubber just kind of melted or settled over a short period of time.

I assume there is an install technique for straight rubber.... It is probably harder then you think? You probably need to add more then you think also?

http://cwguy.com/?p=2957
Picture%20717b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Pictures from today.... First Quikrete Crack Resistant Concrete Mix
Added 4/23/2014
2016-09-20_11-43-16.jpg


Pictures of Quikrete Masonry Cement Type S
The last 2 pictures were from a larger filled area. I guess debatable.... but I think it is better than it was before.
2016-09-20_11-44-17.jpg

2016-09-20_11-44-45.jpg

2016-09-20_02-14-25.jpg

29701987282_60d24e8ee3_z.jpg


I should have used Crack Resistant Concrete Mix the second time.... But I got confused what I used the first time. There probably is a good reason why you should not use concrete but I have not figured it out yet.
 
So I went to sealmaster and purchased some direct fire crack filler, a v-shaped squeegee, and a pour pot. I heated the hot melt crack filler in the turkey fryer to 360 degrees, dumped it in the pour pot and the wife squeegeed it out as I poured it. It worked very well. I had about $150 in tools and a box of crack filler. The box of crack filler was a little less than $50. I was surprised how far a box of this stuff goes. Half a box did my entire lot. I will never buy cold pour crack filler again. Its junk and harder to work with.
 
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