Replace Jim Coleman keypad with Rotary Knob?

[Joswhaha]

I have 2 bays down because the Coleman boards or keypads are not working. I was wanting to know if I can replace the pad and board with a rotary switch to get me by till I get new doors? I can fabricate a plate to go behind the square opening to accommodate the rotary switch, but I didn’t know if I can just wire the current wiring into the rotary. Any input is appreciated!

 

[MEP001]

I didn’t know if I can just wire the current wiring into the rotary.

Yes, you can. The legend is right there on the yellow sticker. Timed load will go to both 10 and 20 if you use a 10-position or 11 and 21 if you use an 8-position. From there each function goes to next increasing number on the 1x stack as you want them on the faceplace. Whatever is high pressure now will need to go to its matching function on the 2x stack, jumpered together.

 

[Joswhaha]

Yes, you can. The legend is right there on the yellow sticker. Timed load will go to both 10 and 20 if you use a 10-position or 11 and 21 if you use an 8-position. From there each function goes to next increasing number on the 1x stack as you want them on the faceplace. Whatever is high pressure now will need to go to its matching function on the 2x stack, jumpered together.

Great, I am going to order a few switches and make this happen. 2 stack switch is what I need, right? I appreciate you answering this question for me and hope you don’t mind if I have to ask a few more when I get the switches.

 

[washnvac]

Yea, I got rid of all those and went to rotary. Push button electronics in a car wash bay really does not seem like a good idea to me. I got rid of the GinSan units too.

 

[MEP001]

2 stack switch is what I need, right?

2 stack for sure, if you have a high pressure wax and a separate foam wax gun you probably need 10-position. I'm assuming small-town wash will only have tire cleaner/presoak/soap/foam brush/rinse/wax/spot free you can use 8-position.

 

[Earl Weiss]

Yea, I got rid of all those and went to rotary. Push button electronics in a car wash bay really does not seem like a good idea to me. I got rid of the GinSan units too.

Aside from the obvious environmental hurdles it would be so much more efficient. I am thinking of my tunnel entry keypads. Just a cat 5 cable or similar to the controller in the ER, plus it accounts for every relay triggered and $ amount.

 

[pcb]

If you have presoak and clearcoat that run off the high pressure pump you'll need a 3 stack to open the bypass solenoid on the pump.

 

[MEP001]

If you have presoak and clearcoat that run off the high pressure pump you'll need a 3 stack to open the bypass solenoid on the pump.

If it uses a different presoak instead of high-pressure soap, you can connect the presoak and the pressure solenoid together.

 

[Joswhaha]

Alright guys I got some parts together to make a few of these doors for mine that are not working. Does anyone have a picture of a Jim Coleman rotary switch faceplate from the backside? I got a blank door from Jim Coleman and it looks like I am missing a standoff for the speaker and perhaps a bracket for the switch but I am not 100% sure what else I may be missing.

The wiring seems fairly straightforward, I’m not sure about the motor starter for the other high pressure functions but I can figure that part out. Are there any tricks anyone wants to share about wiring? I have a 10 position switch, led6 timer, ginsan coin acceptor, and cryptopay.

 

[MEP001]

Motor starter is one wire that needs to connect at the 2x layer for every position you want high pressure. If soap is at 23, rinse is at 25, high pressure wax is at 26, all three are just jumpered together with the final wire going to motor starter on the barrier strip. Power for the second layer goes in at 20, also jumpered to 10 to power the low pressure functions and solenoids.

 

[Joswhaha]

Alright, let me ask a few questions.

As far as the rotary switch, I’ve got it wired as you described. So for the led6 timer and sensatron coin mechanism, the instructions say how to install these so no, the issue I have is from my factory Coleman wiring I have hot, common, coin switch, timed output. Do I need to have anything connected to the factory “coin switch” and “timed output wiring” or only connect the dixmor?

 

[MEP001]

No, those are to communicate with an accounting system or to turn on a "Bay in use" light inside.

Earlier you mentioned a horn mounting bracket missing from your new doors. I've always used a zip-tie with the mounting ring on the end around the horn, with the ring on one of the top coin acceptor studs. With the horn pointed at the coin slot, it's pretty loud.

 

[Joswhaha]

Got it, I’ve got 1 more wire for air solenoid. Any I going to need to connect this to the first stack on the features that have air solenoids?

I should have one of these up and running today!

 

[MEP001]

What is the air solenoid for? I have built washes with a common air solenoid for tire cleaner and presoak, and it just connects to the second layer jumpered to those positions just like the motor starter.

 

[Joswhaha]

I found a wiring diagram for my system in some of the owners paperwork today so it made this a little easier. Apparently the air solenoid wire doesn’t really go anywhere. I did get 2 meter boxes mostly together but I didn’t order the bracket for the Led6 when I placed my order. I could fabricate some brackets but it will probably end up costing more than just buying them.

 

[MEP001]

You can use the old bracket by hammering one of the up-bends flat, then bend the bit with the hole for the stud 180° and it will line up again with the stud. The timer display will be off-center from the opening, but it'll work until you get the Coleman retrofit bracket.

Kleen-Rite Corporation - MOUNTING BRACKET FOR DMLED6

MOUNTING BRACKET FOR DMLED6

www.kleen-ritecorp.com

Your wiring looks like crap.

 

[Joswhaha]

You can use the old bracket by hammering one of the up-bends flat, then bend the bit with the hole for the stud 180° and it will line up again with the stud. The timer display will be off-center from the opening, but it'll work until you get the Coleman retrofit bracket.

Kleen-Rite Corporation - MOUNTING BRACKET FOR DMLED6

MOUNTING BRACKET FOR DMLED6

www.kleen-ritecorp.com

Your wiring looks like crap.


View attachment 4986

I agree about my wiring looking like crap. I am going to pretty it up now that it is working. I also made a little bracket for the speaker and for the timer since it is to cold In Oklahoma today to do anything else productive. Probably not cold by the northern folks standards but we are have lows in the teens and highs mid 30s. At least it’ll be back in the 50s tomorrow.

 

[Joswhaha]

I also have 2 sensotron coin acceptors that must be bad. The led6 just reads COIN after a coin is inserted. Can I clean these or take them apart and repair or should I order 2 new ones?

 

[MEP001]

If you have them wired correctly and it shows "COIN" on the display, the coin signal circuit is fused closed. You should have one of the red/green wires from the coin acceptor to the orange/black wire from the timer (Coin pulse) and the other red/green combined with the black wire to the solid orange from the timer (24V AC hot). If that's how you wired it, disconnect the single red/green from the orange/black. If the timer immediately starts scrolling, the acceptor is bad. You can't fix it, but Ginsan can.

 

[Joswhaha]

I am going to order a replacement, maybe a slug buster p-47 the price is good and reviews on here seem fair. Cryptopay swipers showed up today. As soon as world pay sets me up these will be hooked up too.

One more question on wiring that rotary switch. Does my presoak need the motor starter connected? It is a low pressure feature but doesn’t have a separate pump.