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Replacing old compressor

MEP001

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cantbreak80 said:
What did I tell you...

...well, OK...I don't have to junk it but, today it started leaking from the pressure switch.

Gotta replace the in-tank check valve.
A friend of mine had the same problem - he called Ingersoll-Rand who told him it was a bad bleeder on the pressure switch. I never was able to convince him that it was the tank check valve because "they made the compressor, they must know what they're talking about". He replaced the whole pressure switch; it's still leaking.
 

Randy

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I had a guy give me a $2500 Saylor Beall Air compressor because it was tripping the breaker when it would try to start. He had replaced the motor, pressure switch and it still tripped the breaker. He was so disgusted with it that he asked me to haul it off. I replaced the tank check valve and it works like a top now. Replacing the tank check is no big deal, they go bad just like everything else.
 

cantbreak80

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The check valve fixed it. $11 at Grainger

I took my 20 gallon portable just in case I broke something. Good thing because I carry a 30” breaker bar in the truck. I needed it to break the old check valve loose!!!

And, since I had the backup, I hooked it up and took my time…lots of deferred maintenance here. Since I couldn’t remember the last time I’d changed the oil…well, let’s just say…it needed it!
 

MEP001

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cantbreak80 said:
I took my 20 gallon portable just in case I broke something. Good thing because I carry a 30” breaker bar in the truck. I needed it to break the old check valve loose!!!
I had to change the one on the I/R once - had to go buy a 5' piece of pipe for leverage to break it loose. I'm surprised the tank weld didn't snap.
 

washnvac

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Any of you guys had problems with the motors on the IR? I have the 80 gallon, 5 hp, 2-stage, 220v single phase. I have had it since '05. It just fried its 7th motor. I buy the replacements at Grainger and buy the triple-guard warranty, which gives me one free replacement. But something is obviously wrong. This last one lasted 6 months. I am currently running 2 -30 gallon portables I got from TS. At $169 each for the portables, it seems like the way to go for a while.
 

MEP001

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Yes, the motors IR use are crap. Seems like Dayton motors are crap now too. The original motor failed, and I replaced it with a Baldor about 5 years ago. I bought it on an eBay store for $350 - Grainger wanted $650, IR wanted $800.
 

Randy

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Washnvac
7 motors! Something is wrong. Have you ever taken one into the shop and had it looked at? Grainger electric motors are JUNK!

Try a Lesson 5 Hp motor. My electric motor repair guy swears by them. That’s all he sells now.
 

washnvac

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Try a Lesson 5 Hp motor. My electric motor repair guy swears by them. QUOTE]

What is the Lesson model number? I think the Grainger ones are A.O. Smith. Yes, I took one to a motor shop---burnt up. It would cost more to rewind it then a new one. Ofcourse, maybe a rewind will last longer. At two of my older washes, I have Speedaire, from Grainger. One is 11 years old and the other 13. I have replaced belts once, and change oil every 6 months. I have cleaned the filters a few times. Other than that, they have been champs! Maybe I will just break down and get one to replace the IR.
 

MEP001

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You can replace your motor with just the frame size, voltage/phase and horsepower of the old one.

Leeson and Baldor are both good motors. I don't know who actually makes the motors for Grainger, but they're Dayton brand, not A.O. Smith.

It's not unusual for it to cost more to rewind a motor than to replace it.
 

dreese

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You can replace your motor with just the frame size, voltage/phase and horsepower of the old one.

Leeson and Baldor are both good motors. I don't know who actually makes the motors for Grainger, but they're Dayton brand, not A.O. Smith.

It's not unusual for it to cost more to rewind a motor than to replace it.
You also need the nameplate RPM of the motor
 
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