rinse tank fill valve

[waright]

I service a location that keeps on having rinse tank fill valve problems. The valves only seem to last about 1-4 months. I have tried casa, bob, hydrominder 573, water master valves. They all work great for a few weeks/months, then all of a sudden they don't want to shut off completely. What pressure is the max that these valves can handle? It runs about 60-80 at this location.

I think this site has poor water quality. It is softened, and usually checks at 1-3 grains hardness. The incoming city water is 27-30 grains hard.

In the winter, the rinse tank is using hot water, around 110-115 degrees, and in summer, rinse water tank is supplied with cold water.

I have a problem with fittings (like non working swivel connectors)rusting very, very badly, and anything that is not stainless out in the bay is rusting very fast. For example, 2 1/2 years old hoses are rusting through the crimps.

I use the same presoak here as i do at many other locations, with no problems anywhere else.

Some questions i have:

Could salt be left after regeneration, and getting into the water?
does removing (exchanging) that much hardness affect the water in a way that makes it aggressive (like spotfree water becomes aggressive)?

Where can i send water for a complete analysis?

I'm thinking about a solenoid on the inlet for the rinse tank fill valve, but it gonna be a pain in the a$$ to rig.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I'm thinking about a solenoid on the inlet for the rinse tank fill valve, but it gonna be a pain in the a$$ to rig.

I've done that and it's very easy, assuming you have an unused set of contacts on your SS pump motor starters. If so, just install a solenoid somewhere upstream of your float valve. Power it with it's own independent power source. Run one of the power wires to one unused terminal on the starter and daisy over to the same terminals on all the other bays. Now daisy a wire from the opposing terminal on the starters back to the solenoid valve. Now, any time a pump is running the solenoid will open and allow water to the float valve. It will close when there is no HP pump running. The float valve will regulate the level just as before, but now a leaker (which they all are) will not run the tank over when the wash is not used.

 

[soapy]

I followed Pats advise on fill valve solenoids with a twist. I actually use one solenoid per bay wired into the motor contactor. They are wired off a common manifold so each will provide water to the tanks seperatly. I was leary of one solenoid failing on a busy day and not letting the tanks fill. I also plumbed in a bypass ball valve so that I can bypass the solenoids if needed. It is more expensive to do it this way but it works for me.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

My Mark VII tanks got me off the hook on the failing solenoid. I knew that could be an issue down the road as well. My stand has both a hot and cold tank. I plumbed them together at the bottom so if the solenoid didn't open the cold tank would keep the hot tank replenished. I left the float valve in the cold tank as is, but just set it lower than the hot so it would always be shut very tight since it would normally be completely submerged. It works great that way.

 

[Washmee]

Have you tried one of these?

Cleveland Float Valve

I have had great success with them.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I tried what was probably an earlier version of that valve...total POS. In my 40+ years in and around this business I think I have tried all of the new, latest, greatest, be all and end all valves that there have been. I quit trying new valves about 5 years ago when I got the solenoid idea right here on this forum. Now I just get whatever float valve is easiest to use/install because it don't matter that it leaks.

 

[waright]

I have not tried the cleveland valve.

The 573 that I used at this location failed because the little ear clip on top of the valve rusted away. Kinda strange they advertise this valve as corrosion proof.

the casa valves have failed because the rubber stopper either shifts positions or gets a cut in it.

the water-master that just failed, I haven't had a chance to look at it yet.


Any ideas on where i can send a water sample in for analysis?

 

[PEI]

I have not tried the cleveland valve.

The 573 that I used at this location failed because the little ear clip on top of the valve rusted away. Kinda strange they advertise this valve as corrosion proof.

the casa valves have failed because the rubber stopper either shifts positions or gets a cut in it.

the water-master that just failed, I haven't had a chance to look at it yet.


Any ideas on where i can send a water sample in for analysis?

Try the State Hygienic Lab of the University of Iowa. There phone number is (712)-337-3669. They claim the do water testing for private individuals.

 

[Reds]

I have 80 lb pressure coming in. I replaced a hydrominder with a Walters valve 4 years ago and have not had any problems with it. Just my experience with one wash.

 

[Kevin James]

[QUOTE
Any ideas on where i can send a water sample in for analysis?[/QUOTE]

You should be able to go on line and find a lab that does water testing analysis. It can get a little expensive. The last one we had done was around $250, but they were looking for pollutants.

From what you have described it sounds like you’re getting a lot of sodium Chloride (salt) in with the water. You shouldn’t have that fast of corrosion with your fittings.