Rinsing foam

[sudsurfer]

Have a debate going with chemical salesman. He sets up foamers "wet" so the soap (foam) splats on car. Says rinses better. I, and my customers, would like more and thicker foam for a better show, but he says will not rinse as well. Any thoughts?

 

[Earl Weiss]

Does the foam go on a wet or dry car. If it's wet from PS first this helps.

There are so many variables the only way you know is to try it. My first thought is more air can make more foam and use less product. Good for you, not so much for him. You can also reduce the foam and aid drying by using a low PH Product to inject into the last friction unit. If you have a rinse before DA is applled, a nominal injection of DA into that rinse can help as well. If you don't have a rinse before the DA you could add one but you would need to figure the cost / benefit equation.

 

[rph9168]

Earl makes some valid points. Personally I doubt that "wet" foam rinses any better or worse than a lighter foam. A lot depends on how your rinsing is set up as Earl suggests.

 

[Waxman]

Earl makes some valid points. Personally I doubt that "wet" foam rinses any better or worse than a lighter foam. A lot depends on how your rinsing is set up as Earl suggests.

yes a lighter foam rinses better.

i used to work at a car wash with thick tri foam and constantly got 'un rinsed' complaints. thick foam gets caught in channels above windows and blowers spread it to windows where customers see it and then complain.

trust me.

 

[rph9168]

If that was happening the rinse was not that good.

 

[Waxman]

If that was happening the rinse was not that good.

hard to say; i was just the attendant! they were laserwash G5's; 2 of them side by side and same problem existed in both bays.

 

[rph9168]

A lot of times there is not adequate rinsing especially when under high pressure.

 

[sudsurfer]

A lot of times there is not adequate rinsing especially when under high pressure.

Thanks for all the advice. We apply foam then rinse then DA and final r/o. Most problems are from the aforementioned foam getting in cracks and blowers blowing it out.

 

[robert roman]

You may want to consider what is done to optimize rinsing in short tunnels, place tri-foam applicators (thick as you want) between detergent arches and first friction module.

This allows more time for foam product to “break” and problem changes to rinsing bubbles produced from applying soap to lubricate brushes.

How you rinse is also important.

“We apply foam then rinse then DA and final r/o.”

Is “rinse” fan pattern city pressure or flood arch? Is “rinse” fresh water or reclaim?

Is DA and RO fan pattern or rain arch?

Do you have mirror rinse attachments?

 

[Earl Weiss]

Thanks for all the advice. We apply foam then rinse then DA and final r/o. Most problems are from the aforementioned foam getting in cracks and blowers blowing it out.

Is the car wet with pre soak when foam is applied. I found having the car wet and the channels with liquid helped the foam flow out after application. You might also check to see if you can lower the concentration of the foaming product.

 

[rph9168]

If all else fails you might try replacing one or all of your trifoams with a clear coat protectant that also foams but breaks up later. They are expensive so it you go that route try replacing just one at first. If you see this are a serious issue hopefully some of the other suggestions will work so you won't have to consider this route.