RO recovery Tank ideas for laser

[tdlconceptsllc]

Hey guys
I have a laser 4000 and have a water softener and spot free machine that dumps a lot of water down the drain every so often. My local Distributor guy want 3k to install. How could I do this myself, my equipment room is big enough. He was saying install a 300 gallon poly tank a 1.5hp motor a bladder tank and controls. I went to Dultmeire website a slimline 300 gallon Polly tank is $340 dollars. Is the pump used to pump from the recovery tank to the Laserwash HP rinse tank? I need some advise from someone that has done this would be nice will. What kind of switches and floats do I need I have only heard of this never seen it done. My water bill is very high and thought this may help. Thanks Thomas.

 

[MEP001]

I had a 200 gallon tank mounted on the wall and plumbed to a 1" direct-acting float valve in the auto tank set a good 4 inches above the working float valve. There's no risk of anything failing that could cause any down-time, and one wash will use about 15 gallons of the stored reject.

 

[soapy]

I use tanks mounted at the same level as my existing holding tank for the automatic. I run a 3 inch line between the 2 tanks with no valves or pumps to worry about. Then I lower what ever the switch is for filling the existing holding tank. As one tank fills with RO reject you are filling the top half of both tanks and if you get too much water the exisiting overflow setup still works. No extra working parts and I have found Gravity is pretty reliable compared to other things in the car wash industry.

 

[soapy]

Yellow tank on the left is new holding tank sitting next to existing white holding tank. I used 1 new bulk head fitting on the original tank and used existing fitting on the yellow tank. 2 inch hose is used on this one and has worked fine. The only other thing to do is to lower the fill switch on the original tank and plug the old hole. My tank uses a simple 24 volt float switch that goes through tank with a 1/2 inch hole. I lowered the fill switch to half way in the original tank. With the 2 tanks being tied together I have the same amount of stock water to draw on and as RO water fills both tank I double the amount of water of the stock tank.

 

[Waxman]

my set up uses the 'tote' style tanks. $75 each used (clean). they come in a metal cage. my set up uses a little giant pump with 2 floats. pretty simple to do.

 

[Stuart]

I installed a 100gallon tank with grundfos pump, bladder tank, float valve, kari float switch and pressure switch - all sitting on a stainless frame I had made sitting about 8 feet off the ground -above existing equipment. total cost was $1834. Frame was $625. I plumbed it into the main water supply and when the pressure drops below a preset point the pump turns on to use reject water. 99% of reject goes to IBA wash cycle. As my equipment room floor and low walls are already occupied, I had to go up with the tank. I plumbed and wired myself to save $$.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

http://www.autocareforum.com/showthread.php?7720-Reject-Water&highlight=reject

 

[pgrzes]

I have a 230 gallon spot free tank, A 180 gallon reclaim tank, and 2- 55 gallon drums tied together for reject water, all are up in the attic above my pumpstand. The reject setup has 3/4" hose to a jobe valve into the pumpstand tank. No need for any booster pumps anywhere I can just gravity feed everything.

 

[tdlconceptsllc]

MEP and Soapy and everyone else thanks so much for the detailed information on how to do this I beleive I am going to do the gravity setup and build a stainless stand thanks so much.

 

[tdlconceptsllc]

Pgrzes

When the RO is dumping water down a floor drain is it strong enough to be pumped 8-10ft in the air from the floor to my Recover tank or should I use a sump pump to pump them to my extra holding tank then gravity feed to my HP tank with a jobe float on my automatic. Thanks a lot very helpful

 

[pgrzes]

I have my reject hose going directly up to the attic, it has a bypass valve tee'd with a jobe valve in my reclaim tank, when thats full all goes into my reject tanks, when everything is full the overflow goes back down to the washworld tank, if thats also full then overflow goes down the drain. I think the lift is maxed out, but I really havnt had any issues 3 years later. I was thinking of moving my ro unit upstairs also, just for space savings. We built an insulated room in attic for all the tanks and lines.

 

[MEP001]

Pgrzes

When the RO is dumping water down a floor drain is it strong enough to be pumped 8-10ft in the air from the floor to my Recover tank or should I use a sump pump to pump them to my extra holding tank then gravity feed to my HP tank with a jobe float on my automatic. Thanks a lot very helpful

That reject is coming from the RO at 200 PSI. Going up into a holding tank on a 12 foot stand is a non-issue.

 

[wash4me]

I did a tank just right at the same height as my auto carwash tank. I went to the store for 3 inch stuff and they only had two inch. I decided that was big enough. I was wrong. It works but since it takes a little longer for transfer to even out the two tanks it causes the float to go on off repeatedly before filling the tanks to even.

 

[tdlconceptsllc]

thanks Mep just double checking

 

[Indiana Wash]

Mine cost $500. It was super easy and is as low tech as you get. No pumps needed. I put a tank up high. I used a pickup water tank $240 but wish I would have used a tote $15. I put the tank on a stack of cinder blocks so it was higher than my two automatics water reservoirs. I then ran the RO reject to the top of the pickup water tank. Since the water comes out at high pressure, it has no problem filling a tank that is 8' above the outlet. Then I just plumbed two lines of 2" pvc downhill to the two automatic water reservoirs. I used 2" manual float valves from grainger (not pressure ones) and put one on each automatic reservoir. I set the new float valves to the regular level but then set the float valve that is attached to water supply a few inches lower. Done. As easy and low tech as you can get. Everytime the pickup tank fills and empties, I save $2.30. I estimate I am saving at least $100 per month, probably considerably more.