Rotary switch problem

[MEP001]

You can use the seal nut in place of the outer nut, but it wouldn't hurt to double-nut. You want the height just right or the hollow threaded part will push through the boot and spread it open making it useless.

I use one nut inside and one outside and tighten the s**t out of it so it won't work loose - I've rewired many meter boxes because someone didn't get it tightened properly and when the switch seized some idiot customer grabbed a pair of pliers and kept trying to turn it until the wiring got completely twisted off.

 

[2Biz]

You want the height just right or the hollow threaded part will push through the boot and spread it open making it useless.

Correct...This is something you don't want to over look.

 

[mjc3333]

Here are a few picture of what has been happening to my Electroswitch 8 position series 31 switches. I've used this switch for 26 years and never had this happen until about three to four years ago. I tried anti seize, grease, wd-40, etc. all with the same rusted result. Talked to Robert directly from Electroswitch today. He said the switch is not designed to be in a damp environment even though I never had this happen before. The only change I made was the removal of my heat tape from the coin box. I think this prevented moisture from building up within that part of the switch. I am going back to using heat tape year round. By the way, the internals of the switch itself never rusted. All I did was exchange the rusted portion with a new top instead of removing the entire switch for a quick fix.

ps-had the same results with the Shalco brand switches.

Mike

 

[lilb93]

I would heat it up and separate it and wire brush it till smooth. Then coat it with the white Heat sink compound. Water does not change it, it will never seize again. It never gets hard if you get it on something you have to use thinner or acetone to remove it.

 

[MEP001]

Once they get as rusted as the ones mjc pictured you can't even get it apart.

There are a number of things I would use before heat sink compound - dielectric grease, anti-seize compound, marine-grade wheel bearing lube.

 

[2Biz]

Here is a few pics with a nut and washer on the inside and a nut and washer on the outside. There is about 3-4 threads left for the seal. Eliminating the inside washer will be just right.

 

[Twodose]

Using a second nut on the face seem's like it would be defeating the purpose of having the boot as water could still get in where you don't want it to, i would just use the boot and a nut an the inside, and tighten good, I never went crazy to tighten the nuts behind and on the front of the faceplate, but i have never seen that kind of rust on a Rotary switch, also have heaters with clicks on in each bay so that may make the difference.

 

[2Biz]

***Update***

I had a rotary switch seizing about 3 months ago when I got these seals. For me, they never last long after that even though I soak them in WD-40. But this time I used WD-40 and put a seal on. I also put a dab of sil Glyde on the shafts before putting the seal on. 3 months later, still working great.

 

[2Biz]

Reviving another old thread to update....Same rotary switch that was seizing 3 months prior to my previous post is still working like new...Over 6 months later...Surely everybody that hates changing out rotaries has these seals installed by now, right?!?!?!?

 

[2Biz]

Almost 3 years since last update! I finally had a rotary on my outside truck bay starting to seize....Or so I thought...After taking the seal off, actually the lube I put on the seal had dried up after 3 years of use and the rubber was dragging on the shaft. Squirted some lithium spay grease on the shaft, applied some sil-glyde on a new seal, and good as new. Took about 15 minutes to do the other three bays. The seals are less than $3.00 now...It sure is nice not to have to put new rotary's on every time I turn around!

 

[OurTown]

Where do you get yours and are the threads steel or rubber? The ones on Kleen-Rite's site are pricey for what they are.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-32964-seal-nut.aspx

 

[2Biz]

I got mine from Digikey…

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/apm-hexseal/N9060X1-4-2/335-1136-ND/3712291

See post 10 for reference. The nut is steel and the seal is some sort of rubber. Seems to hold up well, but does dry out over time. Looks like that time is about 3 years! I just took them off and put a little sil-glyde on the shaft and reinstall. Actually, if you add this to a routine maintenance schedule, it also makes it easier to remove the dial. Recoating the set screws with anti seize helps it make it to the next time. I was able to get all 4 dials off without cutting them off. We all know how much of a pain this is if they are stuck on the shaft. So far I have yet to have a rotary fail using the seals. BTW, just ordered 10 more just to add to my spares, price was $2.86 each and about $3.00 shipping.

Here's the Manufacturers P/N....N9060X1/4 2 There are several suppliers that sell them, most are between $2.50 and $3.00 ea...