Rowe Changer Problem

[Ghetto Wash]

I don't have an LED part number. I get them from my changer repair guy. I just tell him I need some LED's and he delivers them. I believe he gets them straight from Rowe.

As far as the motor break being bad, I've only seen one that was actually physically broken - and that was on one of my Hamiltons. It is just a metal bar mounted to the motor. When the motor is on, it is magnetized and the bar gets pulled up next to the motor. I don't know what causes it to stop working, maybe the magnetic field in the motor gets too weak to pull the bar in. Bottom line is that when mine have been bad it was not something that could be "seen".

 

[MEP001]

This is the motor as it sits in the dispenser. When you tilt it down, the motor brake will be facing you. The first thing to look for would be wires that could potentially lay against it and hold it disengaged. When the motor runs it pulls the metal bar against the metal core of the motor windings. You should be able to move the bar to disengage it and it should spring back out. You should be able to reach the end of the commutator to turn it with a fingertip - it will turn a little but should stop in less than a full turn. If the motor brake is engaged and you can spin it, either the plastic brake hook or the tab on the bar is broken off.

Sometimes heat makes the lacquer on the motor core melt and the bar will just stick to it. It will clean up with some isopropyl alcohol.

 

[slash007]

This is the motor as it sits in the dispenser. When you tilt it down, the motor brake will be facing you. The first thing to look for would be wires that could potentially lay against it and hold it disengaged. When the motor runs it pulls the metal bar against the metal core of the motor windings. You should be able to move the bar to disengage it and it should spring back out. You should be able to reach the end of the commutator to turn it with a fingertip - it will turn a little but should stop in less than a full turn. If the motor brake is engaged and you can spin it, either the plastic brake hook or the tab on the bar is broken off.

Sometimes heat makes the lacquer on the motor core melt and the bar will just stick to it. It will clean up with some isopropyl alcohol.

Thanks for the post. I will take it back out and inspect it first chance I get then let you know my findings.

 

[slash007]

This is the motor as it sits in the dispenser. When you tilt it down, the motor brake will be facing you. The first thing to look for would be wires that could potentially lay against it and hold it disengaged. When the motor runs it pulls the metal bar against the metal core of the motor windings. You should be able to move the bar to disengage it and it should spring back out. You should be able to reach the end of the commutator to turn it with a fingertip - it will turn a little but should stop in less than a full turn. If the motor brake is engaged and you can spin it, either the plastic brake hook or the tab on the bar is broken off.

Sometimes heat makes the lacquer on the motor core melt and the bar will just stick to it. It will clean up with some isopropyl alcohol.

Thanks to your explanation I was able to understand how it works and get it fixed. The plastic brake was fine, but the gold metal bracket that stops the brake had bent out of the way and was allowing it to spin freely. Bending it back down solved the problem. I must have bent it while removing it to replace the led. The only other concern I have is that the motor makes a loud buzzing noise when it runs to dispense the change. My other hopper doesn't make any noise whatsoever. Is this something I should be concerned about?

 

[MEP001]

It might be the brake lever buzzing against the motor - wouldn't hurt to look at it again, but I doubt it's a problem.