Run on error 4000

[Ontario Car Wash]

Todays error
run on
state -trly lft
cycle -0
mode -pre measure

goes to premeasure then goes back home and powers down
wont let me use joystick
and the small glass tube fuse in what i think is the x30 slot in the jo

happened 3 times in a 100 wash day?????

Any thoughts of were to start digging would be appreciated

 

[getnbusy]

my understanding is a run on error is caused when the machine does not perform a certain task in a specified amount of time.


whatever is causing the error will only get worse til you find it. I am having a run on error myself. ( have been for a couple of weeks). actually my machine has been down all weekend as I was out of town. I'm jumping on it first thing in the morning. Ive tinkered with it a bit over the last couple of weeks with no luck. I'm pretty sure my problem is vfd. I'm gon find out in the morning. THe weird thing is, my machine only has this error on the very first wash of the day. I have been told that a gearbox likely has water in it that is freezing.

 

[pgrzes]

Im sure you probably checked this allready, but first thing I check with a motor run error is tires. Then proxs reading properly.

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

Put some more air in the tires and wiped off the Proxes and cleaned all that stuff off see what happens I think it's giving me the run off error just because it doesn't know what else to give me machines in the home position then it's lies to measure the front of the car and slides back to the home position and powers itself off so I'm guessing the x 30 in the festoons shorting popping that fuse and then it just gives me that error because it doesn't know what else to give me. We'll see how it goes today if not I guess I'll be changing that festoon wire any other thoughts would be appreciated thanks

 

[getnbusy]

After a thorough explanation of the sequence of events on how this thing operates, I was led to believe the problem with my machine is likely the bridge motor. I have one comin tomorrow. I did not change the vfd.

Part of that thorough explanation causes me to think you may have a VT problem. Why is too long of a story that I'm not sure I can explain properly. but you might look in that direction. IDk but worth a look I would think.

Critical thinking doesn't always win tho. Sometimes its some off the wall mess for some unexplainable reason. good luck

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

I thought about the bridge motor but it's pretty good doesn't seem to be drawing much amps and it happens once every hundred cars I guess kind of weird even the PDQ guy stumped. At the beginning of the washer comes up to the right front headlight starts to purge itself for the pre-soak and then it goes back to the home position and powers itself off so I'm assuming the fuse must be blowing when it gets back to the home position otherwise the motor wouldn't run to let it go back we were thinking maybe the low pressure pump surging. Went through all the connections last night and all the Jo boxes everything seems pretty tight and corrosion free I'm dreading it's that festoon and just once in awhile I catch is just right but I'm thinking if it was the festoon why would it start the process and then shut off. Anyways back to the drawing board anybody's two cents would help thanks

 

[GoBuckeyes]

Try running the wash in ‘Test’ mode and see if it still happens. When you do that, it basically runs a ‘Dry’ wash. That will eliminate your suspicion of the booster surging in addition to everything else running.

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

Thanks
thing is i could run it all day and night and it wont do it
ran all day 60 washes yesterday and
ran 100 cars today and it did it once around the 30th car

sat all day to see what it actually did and it did it when i ran to wendy's so watched on film

like i said it measures car then starts to purge presoak and then back to the home position and fuse pops x030


would i be wasting my time thinking its in the festune trying to elimante everything else

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

Alright ive reviewed the video and no the arm does not move
sorry i thought it premeseared and went back to home

it does not move
the presoak kicks in and runs for a sec and then lights out
im not sure if the arm is trying to move or if its just wiggle from the pressure
this explains the the run on
so no what should i look for bad motor, eye? The fuse is still popping also
thanks sorry for the confusion

 

[getnbusy]

what are you having to do to reset it ? just turn the key and drive ? or do you have to cycle the power ? if you have to cycle the power, that means the vfd has likely faulted out.

when it faults, go first to the vfd and see if the vfd is faulted out. ifyes id say likely motor or vfd problem

also, you can take the trolly tires off and see if it rolls smoothly by hand. you can also run the gearbox without tires and listen for noises

 

[soonermajic]

man...If I did 100 cpd I'd be $hitting gold bricks & not care I had 1 bad wash. I'd wash it again for free, dry it, Tire Shine, vacuum etc & count my money!

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

To reset the machine i only have to replace the 030 5amp fuse and hit 2#2# and im back up and running

red error lights up also on vfd and goes away after fuse replace

i thought vfd but it i washed 95 cars so far and it has not happened

pretty sure its the green festune wires 4,5,6,7 twisting just right or something and pop n it

i did watch the video over and over
what i noticed is that customer ordered wash with undercarriage
undercarriage did not come on
sign still green
car pulls up virtual treadle light turns red
arm does not measure STAYS IN HOME POSITION AND STARTS TO SPARY PS
some presoak starts and power off to sign and joystick dead and the fuse blown??????
Replace fuse and back up

so whats odd is the undercarrigae not coming on to start then the shut down after car gets parked
i didnt realize the undercarriage was not coming on or what wash it was happining on just took customers word

thanks
thanks

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

Ok found another car on video same thing
no undrcarriage
no undrcarrge error
and then the spry ps in hme pstn and lights out

wonder what happened to the uc >

 

[getnbusy]

are you still having this problem ?? I am still having it with my machine. scratching my head.

 

[whitescout]

Have you checked your photo eyes in your Tbars yet? I am going to bet that the Stop eyes are creating a short. It could be the photo eye cables, the amplifier or the base, or connections in the j3 box. I am going to bet on the wires in the Tbars are dried, and possibly burnt from the heaters. I believe what is happening, is that the stop eye input is being received by the controller, and this is why the UC is not coming on. The controller should also be receiving an input when the spray arm is in the home position. If it does not, the controller does not think it is at home, and faults out.

 

[br549ms]

I know very little about automatics, but I have seen several manufactures of electrical circuits install a fuse that is boarder line to the current of the circuit. I would get a amp meter that can record a max reading over time (or a scope meter that can record) and see what the actual current is in the circuit at all times. Place a plastic bag over the meter and secure it if possible.

 

[Ontario Car Wash]

Still changing fuses
i did talk to pdq and they said any 12v or higher fuse will work ****but does have to be a slow burn****
found some at auto zone wondering if because i used a regular fuse maybe its popping once in awhile
keep ya posted
been cold not to many washes so fuse still ok
i also may be thinking it might be the hp pump contactor????
But as of now no clue

 

[MDrost1]

Whitescout poses an interesting possibility.

 

[whitescout]

If you are blowing the x30 fuse, then something in the x30-x37 is drawing excess amps, or a short. All of these are inputs, which are DC-. Once this fuse is blown, the controller will not be able to receive any of the inputs from x30 through x37.

inputs :
width measurement pulse.( picket fence/home flag)
wheel well switch. ( front Tbar eyes or stop treadle)
impact switch, (would include break away on tbar if installed)
emergency stop. (double check at key switch and cabinet)
joystick enable ( could be a bad key switch or have water in it)
low water main tank
low water spot free
speed controller( not likely)

The reed switch ( for the Tbar break away) is probably not the source of the short, as it simply carries the DC- signal, and there is no DC hot in the area.

 

[whitescout]

Still changing fuses
i did talk to pdq and they said any 12v or higher fuse will work ****but does have to be a slow burn****
found some at auto zone wondering if because i used a regular fuse maybe its popping once in awhile
keep ya posted
been cold not to many washes so fuse still ok
i also may be thinking it might be the hp pump contactor????
But as of now no clue

I highly doubt it is the pump contactor. The coils on the contactor are 24VAC. You are blowing a DC fuse.

What I was suggesting in my earlier post, was that your under carriage was not coming on, because you had NO input from the under carriage eyes. The eyes had power, and could see each other, but the fuse was blown, so they did not have the dc common signal to pass through to the controller. Also, the Estop is on the same input card, so The controller was not seeing a signal from the e stop so it could run the wash, or anything for that matter.

For the most part,....
14 ga red wires will be DC hot (24+)
14 ga white with red stripe will be DC common
14 ga blue wires will be 24 AC hot
14 ga white with blue stripe will 24 AC neutral (24N)

inputs will always be white with a red stripe

You have a short in the x30-x37 circuit. It is either 24v dc hot to 24v dc common, ( a direct short) or you are reciving voltage from elsewhere in this circuit.