RYKO 2001 OHD - Cannot get presoak going

[djlamp17]

I froze up my system and have been throwing money and chasing problems for over a month...I f I cant fix this one, I may be out of business...

I installed a new booster pump and I cannot get it to flow. There was a burned our valve Y7 which is the RO inlet valve. I replaced that (208v solenoid valve) and try to test the presoak and trip the breaker on Q14 in the main control panel. The only thing interesting on my LED panel is Y31 is lit and it says "Reset Out"...does anyone know what reset this is?

Or what could be impeding the presoak from the booster pump? booster Pump turns on, then Q14 trips and system faults.

I have been down over a month and chasing broken parts from freezing up...somehow my entry door to the autowash was opened during the Polar Vortex last month, negative temperatures, and froze up the system.

Any advise or questions would be appreciated...

Thanks,

 

[Ryko CS]

Q14 is the 5A breaker that supplies the 24VAC hot signal labeled as wire 526 to the PLC that controls PLC outputs Y40 through Y77. If Q14 is tripping when you turn on the presoak test, the three outputs that should be coming on are Y40 (presoak air and water), Y66 for the soft water pump contactor and Y34 for the RO (or soft) to pump valve. One of them is likely pulling too many amps and tripping the breaker.

All of the valves we use on our products are 24VAC, not 208V as indicated. If you replaced valve Y7 with a 208V valve, that's likely pulling too many amps from the 24VAC circuit on the PLC.

Please try removing wire 58 that comes from PLC output Y34 that routes to your valve Y7 that you replaced, and also remove the wire 229 coming from PLC output Y66. This will disable your valve, and also power to the contactor for the boost pump. If the Q14 breaker doesn't trip, it's most likely the valve you replaced is pulling too many amps.

If it still tripped with those two wires disconnected, the next wire to remove would be wire 31 coming from PLC output Y40 that feeds your presoak air and water. If the breaker continues to trip, it's still something between outputs Y40-77.

PLC output Y31 (reset) comes on when the machine is not ready to run. If you have a breaker tripped, that would definitely cause it. If the machine is ready to arm, you should get Y32 (arming enable) to come on instead. In normal operation, Y31 only comes on briefly at the end of the wash as the machine resets for next vehicle.

 

[djlamp17]

Thank you...i will go try what you stated...the 208v solenoid is for the Rainmaker (Ryko Part number 11219-203)...I just ordered this from Ryko, its the correct valve and a special order. I think one of the other valves may be fried.

 

[Ryko CS]

On the older Rainmaker EnviRO units, we did use the 11219-203 valve. I thought you were talking about the Y7 valve that is the RO/soft water inlet valve that comes off the bottom of the soft/RO holding tank in the pump stand that feeds the 2HP boost pump.

Still same concept though. If you remove the wire feeding the contactor so the pump doesn't pull in, then you can check those other two wires and run the presoak test. I think you will find one is pulling too many amps, and causing the breaker to trip.

 

[Waxman]

One thing I learned from a friend; make sure the motor on the booster pump is spinning in the correct direction. There should be an arrow on it. When I changed my booster pump, I recall 'bumping' the power to be sure the booster pump was rotating in the correct direction.

 

[djlamp17]

I replace the y7 and y6 solenoids feeding booster pump inlet. No breaker trips now...just cant get flow from booster pump. It turns on but no flow?

 

[djlamp17]

Waxman...may be my problem...wired exactly as the label on the pump shows...and my previous wiring from dead pump. Just not sure how to check rotation, or do a quick wire swap to see...

 

[Ryko CS]

As Waxman said, it could be the boost pump running backward. If it is backwards and run that way for a while, that could also damage the impellor. Is Y7 in the pump stand opening? You could put a screwdriver on top of the coil (while coil is on the valve), so see if you can feel the magnetic pull to ensure it's actuating.

 

[djlamp17]

Pump rotates clockwise...seems correct...i am not getting any water to flow...air is flowing for all booster pump proccesses...presoaks, trifoam and spot free rinse. No more breaker trips after i replaced the valves. A little bit of trickle comes from OHD...some main valve is bad...which one?

 

[Ryko CS]

Depends on how your setup questions are answered, and which application you are doing.

Presoak will always be fed from the RO/softwater tank in the pump stand. Valve Y7 in the pump stand feedds the 2HP boost pump and this feeds the appropriate water valve for the chemical being applied.

If you can send me a PM with your email address, I can send you a copy of the pneumatic schematic for your machine so you can follow the path.

 

[djlamp17]

Djlamp@hotmail.com

 

[djlamp17]

Pump rotataion confirmed in correct direction

 

[SLEDGE]

Every time I have replaced a booster pump on our OHDs I have to prime the pump by jumping output y17 fresh water to pump, to the closest com output. You can hear the solenoid click on as it feeds water to the pump. Just a few seconds usually primes it up.

 

[slash007]

Like Sledge said, I had to prime my booster pump as well both times I replaced it or no flow. I'm pretty sure that's your issue.

 

[soapy]

I always Prime my booster pump by running a wire from output 17 to 34. This open the fresh water valve which is under pressure to fill the pump. Another thing you can do is loosen the hot out side of the pump by the union to make it easier to prime..

 

[Waxman]

I have primed booster pumps as well. Mine has a plastic bung that I remove . I put a water hose in and add to the pump until it primes.

 

[soonermajic]

I had an issue on my OHD once, & it was booster pump rotating the wrong way.

I also had an issue once before on my LW4000 & it was booster pump needed to be primed.