Ryko OHD 2001 Code 07

[djlamp17]

I keep getting this "07" VFD fault. It happens at 2 instances...when the OHD gantry approaches the car at start of wash...ganty moves forward to front of car, pauses, and then "Wash Complete" "Thank you for Your Business" comes up on the display in the wash bay, and there is a code 07. The other instance is when the the wash goes into presoak 1...wash arm moves past front of car, rotates, and the gantry attempts to move back. It hits the 07 VFD fault.

I recently tightened the drive belts, but the wash operated OK for some time, and now after ~3 weeks of operation this problem happens every other car/wash cycle.

Any ides?...

 

[Ryko CS]

The 2 digit code 07 references a fault indication based on PLC input X66. This input is normally "ON", and if a fault occurs from within the drive, that signal is lost. To determine if it's something within the drive, please look at Delta VFD parameters 73, 74 and 75 as these are where the internal fault codes are stored in the VFD. Hopefully these will l give you some direction.

I would also suggest you look at the idler wheels to ensure each are rolling freely. On the earliest units, those did not have a grease zirc, while newer ones do. If you loosen up the gantry drive belts, you can lift one side of the gantry up off the track. Remove the C clip used to retain each idler wheel and remove the wheel. Clean the inside of the wheel including the groove. Clean the shaft as well using an emory cloth, apply a light coating of grease to that wheel and reinstall. Do the same for all 4 wheels. If any of them are in a bind, this could be a contributing factor as it takes more torque to move the gantry if bound.

 

[soapy]

If you do have the wheels without grease zerks you can buy the new style with them and simply replace your wheels. If they have not been serviced on a timely basis chances are the center will be worn and not fit tight on the shaft. You can shoot some aerosol lube in and see if that helps. One other thing to check for is make sure all your C clips are on the idler wheels. If they are off that can let the gantry walk from side to side and if it goes far enough the gantry will rub on the rails that the drive belt sits in and cause this fault. On a unit I used to have the groove on the shaft that holds the C clip to keep the wheels in place was worn down. Rather than replacing the shaft I used some brass flared couplers and large washers to hold the wheels in line. Where the water cooling line goes into the shaft I threaded in the coupler after using large fender washers to retain the wheels in place. Then simply down sized backed to the water line size for the water cooling line. This actually worked much better than the factory C clips at keeping the gantry from walking side to side.

 

[djlamp17]

thanks guys your advise is excellent. I had a feeling the gantry was getting bound up. I will follow your advice! I am not exactly sure how to check the VFD codes but I will check when I am back at the wash.

I bought this unit 1.5 years back and the previous maintenance was very questionable. Before I tightened the belts (belts were so loose it lead to drive pulley slippage and jumping teeth and misalignment) there was a thumping sound when the gantry would move forward and back. I am sure these wheels need some fixing or replacing.

 

[soapy]

The thumping sound comes from a rock or similar getting stuck on the rail between the wheels and the rail. A flat spot will get worn onto the wheel. Sometimes it will work itself back to round. WHat I do when this happens is to take a large flat file and find the flat spot on the wheel and gently smooth the edges of the flat spot out.