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Ryko Radius Issue

DiamondWash

Well-known member
I am helping another wash owner with a "should be" simple fix but it's not it even has a Ryko Tech with the same issue asking me for help, when a customer drives in the bay and the side rocker panel blasters turn on so does the arm at full impact pressure so far we have installed a bottom poppet valve repair kit that didn't work so we replaced the Y4 air solenoid for the arm that didn't work, so that leaves me the top portion of the Lexair valve that I hear Ryko doesn't have a repair kit for oh goodie!. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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In the past I have sprayed some WD40 into the incoming air inlet to free up the piston. The piston has a Teflon type ring that can get gummed up. You may have to take the top of valve off and manually push the piston so you can clean up accumulated gunk that keeps the piston from sliding. It is usually a temporary fix. I always keep a spare Lex air valve around.
 
Pull the 1/4" air line off the valve, activate the rocker panel test on the touch screen. If water still flows to the arm that valve is physically stuck open either from the top air side or the bottom poppet side. Assuming the poppet kit was installed correctly on the bottom side of the valve, take the the top section apart and clean the cylinder and piston. Most likely the piston is wedged in the cylinder holding the poppet open. Once apart there will be a steel shaft going from the air end through the valve down to the poppet. Pull that out clean and lube it before putting it back in the hole it came out of. Pushing the steel pin down should open the poppet to let water pass and when releasing the pin the spring on the poppet end should pop the pin back up and close the poppet. Lube the cylinder and piston (I use white lithium grease) and assemble exactly as it came apart (note the small hole in the side of the cylinder). Use the rocker panel test function and the HP test function to verify operation.
 
Took apart the top portion of the valve to find the cylinder so stuck in the body of the valve we had to use a hammer and a piece of rubber to pop it out once out we used a scotch brite pad to clean the interior and then used a anti-seize" marine grease to coat the inside, the steel pin was even stuck but once everything got a cleaning and a glorious coat of anti-seize marine grease we reassembled everything and it works just fine. Also prior to disassembling turn the main water off and run the Hi Impact function until the main holding tank is empty the float switch will turn off the pump indicating the tank is 99% empty.
 
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I'd use either a silicone o-ring lube or a marine-grade wheel bearing grease - anti-seize stuff isn't meant for lubricating moving parts and might cause excessive wear.
 
Hey diamond.. Had the same issue last year.. I ordered the upper, and lower, repair kit directly from Lexair.. Fairly good price too... It's just an air cylinder so lubing it with some drops of 30w works well... Water in the air lines will accelerate the gumming of course. That's what caused it.. and you can see how dirty the air line is feeding it.

A ryko tech is asking for help.... Lol.. Omg, Smh ..:D ..
 
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Any tips on getting the top of the valve off? I couldn't find a way to get my pipe wrench in there and get enough pressure to pop the top loose. Thanks.
 
There are only 4 hex bolts holding the top on but FIRST drain the main water tank best way of doing that is to shut off the main incoming water and run the hi impact test function until the float switch inside the tank shuts down the pump then turn power off to the entire system to prevent ruining the solenoid. I can make a video of the process if you want.
 
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If it's just the bolts, shouldn't be to bad. I was trying to unscrew the top off. I'll let you know if I need a video:) Thanks!
 
Took apart the top portion of the valve to find the cylinder so stuck in the body of the valve we had to use a hammer and a piece of rubber to pop it out once out we used a scotch brite pad to clean the interior and then used a anti-seize" marine grease to coat the inside, the steel pin was even stuck but once everything got a cleaning and a glorious coat of anti-seize marine grease we reassembled everything and it works just fine. Also prior to disassembling turn the main water off and run the Hi Impact function until the main holding tank is empty the float switch will turn off the pump indicating the tank is 99% empty.

How is your fix holding up? Mine is getting really bad so I am finally going to try and fix it. Can't remember why I didn't back when this thread was new.
 
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