Does anyone on here have a Ryko Signature Series system? We just purchased a car wash the equipment was new in 2008 but was neglected over the last few years and the foam brush system is clogged so we by passed it and put the hose directly into the soap container but now we have terrible foam. does anyone know where to get manuels for the system or is there a way to make the foam thicker?
Ryko Signature Series
- Thread starter shorewash
- Start date
soonermajic
Well-known member
There's a real good Ryko tech on here.
DiamondWash
Well-known member
I responded on FB as well, but as MEP001 said please post pictures of your setup especially inside the tanks.
MEP001
Well-known member
Not usually. Read this thread.
SS bay soap
I have a 4-SS bays with one bay auto bay.. Problem is .... I have been having issues with soap. I get my soap from K-Chemical, the green 749 soap in the 55 gal drum. I have been having issues with a build up on the tank bottom screen stopping up with a sludge that looked like snot. I have...
www.carwashforum.com
What kind of soap are you using? It could just plain ole neglect. Drain the tank, scrub it out with a green srubbie pad. I use a small water bed pump that one my customers left to suck out my tanks.
soapy
Senior Member
Sounds like you might have some algea clogging the intake. On the front of the system you have the air side with a pressure gauge and the liquid side with a pressure gauge. YOu should run the pressure side higher than the air side. I would start with liquid side being about 20 psi higher and see how it looks. The bottom tank is the concentrate tank and the upper tank is the mixed tank that should go to the procon pump and then out to the bay. Each upper tank has a hydrominder for mixing. It is also a good idea to check the screens in the bottom of the upper tanks to make use you do not have algea cloggs. The screens simply pop off and can be cleaned. it does not hurt to put a little bleach in each tak to klill off any algea periotically.
I got the pictures. The tank with red chemical in it is what they had in it but we just took the hose that was in the tank and put it directly into the foam container which is blue so that’s why the difference in chemical tank color vs the mixing tank color which is blue. I will post that picture right after this one. Also we use Kleen Rite chemical.
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MEP001
Well-known member
That's a big part of your problem. They are pH neutral and don't have a strong algaecide to keep crud from growing. There is nothing special about your system that you need a manual, you just need to understand how the valves work. If you remove the tube that picks up the chemical from the tank/bucket, you'll see a small orifice that comes out. You change it to a different size to adjust the strength. Since you changed color, you've probably change product that needs to dilute stronger, or needs to be mixed with water first. There's also a screen in the bottom of the tank (or there should be) and if that gets clogged the pump can't get enough liquid.
Ryko CS
Active member
Looks like you have been really good direction above. If you send me a PM with your email address, I can send you a link to the manuals for your machine. From the photos, there are a couple of tags that looks like it says sales order 429306, correct?
I wonder why equipment manufactures seem to think that they have to make chemical tanks so frigg'n huge? My holding tanks are compact, they hold about 3 gallons of chemical and I've never ran out. Shorewash you need to get in there and scrub out those tanks, clean the stainless steel. I'd recommend that you hang a 1" swimming pool bleach pellet in the soap tanks, that will stop the soap snot from building up. When I had the soap snot problem I drilled a bunch of holes in a small plastic bottle, put a 1" swimming pool bleach pellet inside and hung it in the soap tank. It would last about 2 weeks before I had to add another pellet. I did that until I used up all of the soap I had of that brand, now I use JBS Fonic wash no more problems with soap snot.
Yes that correct on the sales order number?
Ryko CS
Active member
Great! I sent you a link to your manuals.
Greg Pack
Wash Weenie
I always assumed that is old designs before hydrominders and liquid soaps were common?
MEP001
Well-known member
For some that's true. Have you ever seen the Weben equipment from the 70's? The pump stands were massive and had a vat for high pressure soap on top that was the size of a coffin. The tire cleaner system had a cylindrical tank the size of a household water heater. You'd mix your powdered soaps once a week.
Hello. I am new to the car wash scene. I have a ryko signature series, serial #38111 date 03/06 I do maintenance here and have posted a pic. My issue is in my self serves in bays 1 & 2 when the spot free option is chosen the cat motor turn on and the spot free pump also. In bays 3& 4 the cat motor don’t turn on but the spot free pump does. If you can help me figure this out it would be so appreciated.
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Ryko CS
Active member
Check the programming in your keypad timer. Whichever key you have setup as your spot free function, you need to ensure all of your bays are programmed the same. As an example, if key 0 is your spot free rinse, if you have it setup as selection option 11, that is low pressure only, so no main pump or medium pressure valve. If it's a 13, that will add the main CAT pump. If it's a 27, that turns on the main CAT pump and the medium pressure valve. Bays 1,2 are likely programmed differently than bays 3,4.
