Simple, reliable stainless steel workhorse? Any thoughts?

[JustClean]

Within the next 2 years we are going to replace our old Washtec with a new brush machine. The current machine is 12 years old. On my machine all stainless steel parts (not many) look great the rest is just a rust bucket. I am after a simple to work on, reliable machine that my customers cannot destroy and still will give them a quality wash. If Istobal was stainless I would consider it...but unfortunately it's not. Any thoughts? I already have a WW Razor. My other concern is I am a bit over babysitting a brush machine to prevent people driving in with roof racks, bike racks etc. I saw once a video of the Belanger Cube washing a pushbike attached to a car. This video has since disappeared....hmm...maybe for a reason. Any thoughts?

 

[AnalyticWash]

My other concern is I am a bit over babysitting a brush machine to prevent people driving in with roof racks, bike racks etc.

I am not sure this problem is going to go away for you if you stay with a friction machine...

 

[JustClean]

Re: Babysitting - well, I guess I probably have to live with that...

I had a look at the Washworld Profile. Having two machines from the same manufacturer has some advantages. I've read somewhere that the Profile "scans" the car. Does that mean it would detect a bike on a rack? Or is this a marketing gimmick?

I'm also a firm believer of: If it's not there it can't break.
I would not go for the wheel scrubber brushes (been there done that) but what are anyones thoughts on the HP wheel nozzles? Really necessary or could I get away without them? Thanks a lot for any input.

 

[soonermajic]

I have a 2 yr old SoftGloss.
Pros: Works good, & almost zero real issues. But it is VERY tight if you're gonna wash many duallys. Fast (5:20 top pkg) cleans well & good chemistry. Customers like it.
Cons: LED on ColorWave (Lava Wax) needs to be brighter. Should use 0° nozxles on Wheel blaster & needs smaller blast pattern. Needs longer brushes on tall arms (which Im told they did). They also need to put Bug Remover in a hose, applicable through their short front brushes.
If they did that, it would be nearly perfect.

 

[Greg Pack]

So Coach, you finally got the backs cleaning better, or is the softgloss at the wash that has preppers?

 

[washnshine]

Within the next 2 years we are going to replace our old Washtec with a new brush machine. The current machine is 12 years old. On my machine all stainless steel parts (not many) look great the rest is just a rust bucket. I am after a simple to work on, reliable machine that my customers cannot destroy and still will give them a quality wash. If Istobal was stainless I would consider it...but unfortunately it's not. Any thoughts? I already have a WW Razor. My other concern is I am a bit over babysitting a brush machine to prevent people driving in with roof racks, bike racks etc. I saw once a video of the Belanger Cube washing a pushbike attached to a car. This video has since disappeared....hmm...maybe for a reason. Any thoughts?

So you want an all stainless steel frame? That will limit your options, as many are aluminum to keep the machine lighter and more nimble, especially if it is overhead bridge mounted.

aside from what has already been mentioned :

Baywashi5

D&S IQ 2.0

 

[I.B. Washincars]

After having a Washtec, I know that you may be soured on Mark VIIs, and probably rightfully so. I had a Wesumat softwash, and it was the most money hungry piece of crap I have ever owned. I hated having that bay down for 4 months after a customer crashed it out of service, but the upside was a brand new Mark VII Softwash. Just to be clear, I did not want another Mark VII, but was not willing to kick in the extra 25K to get a WW. In the two years I owned it before I sold the wash, I think I had two breakdowns. One was an air line fitting on a wheel scrubber, and the other was the E-stop switch, which I bypassed until the new one arrived (found on Zoro for $14). The new owner has owned it for a year now and has only had a couple of issues to date. So in a nutshell, I went from the worst thing I ever bought, to the best thing I ever bought. I wouldn't rule out Mark VII.

Oh, and it's nearly all stainless steel.

 

[soonermajic]

So Coach, you finally got the backs cleaning better, or is the softgloss at the wash that has preppers?

Greg, just when we think it's doing better, we have a couple issues. We only prep on the Razor, not SG.
Ryko is gonna come fix a few issues , from the freeze, Tue, & im gonna have em go through it. Wr will check it thoroughly, change to 0° nozzles (like we talked about) on wheel blasters, & try to get the back cleaning better. Any advice on backends...?

 

[washnshine]

Greg, just when we think it's doing better, we have a couple issues. We only prep on the Razor, not SG.
Ryko is gonna come fix a few issues , from the freeze, Tue, & im gonna have em go through it. Wr will check it thoroughly, change to 0° nozzles (like we talked about) on wheel blasters, & try to get the back cleaning better. Any advice on backends...?

Can it be retrofitted with brushes with longer foam on the top sections of the brush? Ever see a Profile side brush? They are longer on the top and then taper in. Something like that. Wasn’t Ryko going to offer something like that?

Also - you you have the back brushes closing on the back of the car on both directions of travel?

 

[Ryko CS]

Can it be retrofitted with brushes with longer foam on the top sections of the brush? Ever see a Profile side brush? They are longer on the top and then taper in. Something like that. Wasn’t Ryko going to offer something like that?

Yes, any existing machines could be upgraded to the longer brushes. It's just a matter of replacing those top sections.

 

[Melomatic]

Within the next 2 years we are going to replace our old Washtec with a new brush machine. The current machine is 12 years old. On my machine all stainless steel parts (not many) look great the rest is just a rust bucket. I am after a simple to work on, reliable machine that my customers cannot destroy and still will give them a quality wash. If Istobal was stainless I would consider it...but unfortunately it's not. Any thoughts? I already have a WW Razor. My other concern is I am a bit over babysitting a brush machine to prevent people driving in with roof racks, bike racks etc. I saw once a video of the Belanger Cube washing a pushbike attached to a car. This video has since disappeared....hmm...maybe for a reason. Any thoughts?

If you're looking for something with low maintenance in the first four years, a Petit is a good option. https://www.petitautowash.com/

 

[JustClean]

Hi all,
Thank you very much for your input. I forgot to mention that I am in Australia and where I live a technician is not just around the corner. I have to stick to companies/models that are already available here for support. There are a few Washworld Razors (including mine) but not a Profile yet. Istobal, Washtec, Christ are here - but made from shitty galvanized steel. Washtec's MarkVII brand is not being sold here anymore. Ryko is here too...hmm...don't know. Whoever I spoke to wasn't really happy. I think I have to wait until the first WW Profile goes in, jump on a plane and have a talk to their technician and owner.
Still time to do proper research...

 

[Greg Pack]

Coach I don't have a Ryko. But when I was shopping for a friction unit a couple of years ago the ones I watched were doing a poor job on the backs of cars. I was told they would clean the backs better if (I think) "jog" was enabled, but C stores often didn't enable this because it was tough on the brushes. Perhaps Darin can comment. I would love to watch one with longer brush tops and jog enabled to see what the true capability of the machine is

 

[Greg Pack]

The Coleman E fusion is a stainless option. The brush pressure is controlled by VFDs so it's going to back off when it senses too many amps. I can't recall any significant damage claim on my fusion X (combo unit) related to the brushes being too harsh The fusion X was too complex , but the efusion is a different animal. Its a three brush unit so it's going to be slower,

 

[carwashireland]

I think their are some Oasis I5 washes now in Australia. Here's the YouTube link. Might be worth visiting.

 

[washnshine]

I think their are some Oasis I5 washes now in Australia. Here's the YouTube link. Might be worth visiting.

Nice machine- always liked them. Never understood why the front brushes close when the car is driving in, then they open when the machine starts. Seems like they are just asking to be driven into.

 

[soonermajic]

Why not use 3x Foam in place of PS? That gives you a chance to upsell, & th brushes do the cleaning any way. Also didn't think this video shows a Lava Wax type app, or Cc/RainX fewture...?

Nice machine- always liked them. Never understood why the front brushes close when the car is driving in, then they open when the machine starts. Seems like they are just asking to be driven into.
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[washnshine]

I suppose you could use triple foam instead of presoak. Looks like they are following the presoak with a high pressure water pass. Seems like it is simulating a hybrid wash. High pH presoak, followed by high pressure wash followed by friction is pretty much the most comprehensive approach. Pulse maybe the trifoam they are using is more of a polish than a soap and goes on later because the car has to be cleaner.

 

[Ryko CS]

Coach I don't have a Ryko. But when I was shopping for a friction unit a couple of years ago the ones I watched were doing a poor job on the backs of cars. I was told they would clean the backs better if (I think) "jog" was enabled, but C stores often didn't enable this because it was tough on the brushes. Perhaps Darin can comment. I would love to watch one with longer brush tops and jog enabled to see what the true capability of the machine is

I haven't seen any issues with the rear arm oscillation hurting the brushes, but I do think it works better when we leave the "extra-high" air off and only use rear high air at the back. That prevents them from pressing too hard on the rear. I like to keep the tip speed of the brush maintained as much as possible. I'm driving a Ford Edge, and with the rebrushing and longer sections at the top, I'm seeing a big improvement in cleaning the rear glass. There is so much slope on the rear glass on newer SUV's, it's hard to reach it all under the spoiler, but it definitely cleans better than without.

 

[soonermajic]

I haven't seen any issues with the rear arm oscillation hurting the brushes, but I do think it works better when we leave the "extra-high" air off and only use rear high air at the back. That prevents them from pressing too hard on the rear. I like to keep the tip speed of the brush maintained as much as possible. I'm driving a Ford Edge, and with the rebrushing and longer sections at the top, I'm seeing a big improvement in cleaning the rear glass. There is so much slope on the rear glass on newer SUV's, it's hard to reach it all under the spoiler, but it definitely cleans better than without.

What about enabling "jog" feature? Does that help much on backend?
How much is it, to change the hp to 0° nozzles? Maybe that's called "Magnum Force"?
Can you make it spray TC first, then hp blasters, & not hp blast/TC/hp blast? I think that would save 15 secs + let the TC really bite...?
Lastly, after 3x foam, as it goes forward & brushes, it rinses the 3x foam away before the brushes get to it. Seems like it would be better to spray the brushes only (not the car) during this time...?