Softgloss rear brushes shutting down wash

[Day-nightsigns]

Softgloss with short bay, top wash- 2nd pass of brushes comes to rear of vehicle, rear brushes come together in the middle back all the way to the rear of the bay. Rinse starts, gantry starts to move forward, rear brushes start to move to the side of vehicle but doesn't quite get all the way to the walls and hangs up on rear of most taller vehicles and thus tripping a breaker shutting the wash down.
Only happens every 300 washes and most of the time on 2nd brushing before the rinse, all air gauges read about normal on the manifold, any advice!

 

[Ryko CS]

If I understand you correctly, the machine does it's pass from front to rear where the brushes close. Machine continues to drive reverse as needed because of the short bay. When the machine starts to drive forward for rinse, the rear arms aren't opening fast enough. Is that correct?

The rear return pressure has a maximum recommended setting of 60PSI. Operationally, most machines are 5-7 PSI less than indicated on the label, so if that regulator is set somewhere between 53-55PSI, it should work fine. There is a flow control valve on the right side of that solenoid that controls how quickly (or softly) the rear brushes open. If that flow control wasn't locked down properly, it's possible that it has closed more than it should which would restrict movement. I would recommend trying to open that flow control slightly.

If that doesn't work please PM me your contact info, and I can have a tech advisor give you a call to work through it.

 

[DiamondWash]

Sounds to me that the Rear Return Solenoid and/or Regulator are not fully opening, same thing happened to us but on the front arms and it was in fact the Front Return Mac Valve/Solenoid.

 

[Day-nightsigns]

The Mac valve and pressure gauges have been changed for all the rear brush controls, but I will definitely check out the proposed suggestions.

Thanks

 

[Ryko CS]

I would also recommend checking your 24VAC at that point in the wash cycle by monitoring wires 26 and 25. At that point in the wash, the wash water solenoid should be turning off, and the wax/CC water solenoids will be turning on, depending on how your wash package is setup. It's possible you have a water solenoid beginning to short out which would pull down your 24VAC and could cause a MAC valve to not actuate. If you see the voltage pulling down to less than around 22.5VAC, this is most likely whats happening.

 

[Day-nightsigns]

It was the small the flow control valve, thank you!!

 

[Day-nightsigns]

My rear brushes, as they starts to return to the front, seam like they have to much pressure on the vehicle.
How do I get less pressure on these?

 

[Ryko CS]

If the machine is at the rear and driving towards the front (exit), the rear brushes are controlled by "rear trailing air". If you read the gauge for rear trailing air, it is labelled at 10PSI. On all Ryko rollover machines, the pressure designations in the MAC panels should be considered the maximum setting. For rear trailing air, most sites typically are adjusted from 4-5 PSI for best operation. All you are trying to do is control them so they don't bounce away from the vehicle surface.

 

[Day-nightsigns]

My rear trailing air has a new Mac valve and new gauge and the air shows about 3lbs but is very hard to adjust. It jumps from 3lbs to 25lbs very quickly. Is there anything else I should replace to get a smoother reading on my pressure?

 

[Ryko CS]

When you replaced the MAC valve and gauge, did you also replace the regulator for trailing air? If so, it's possible you may not have replaced it with the correct one. Most of the MAC regulators are the standard pressure versions, but for trailing air, it uses a low pressure version, P/N 19802-040. It's very likely that even if you didn't replace it, that regulator could be bad if it's jumping around.

I've also seen locations where they weren't regularly draining water out of the compressor get too much in the pneumatic system cause issues like that as well.