solenoid brass valve stem
- Thread starter cpt clint
- Start date
I dont think it's critical to have these mirror smooth, I just scrape them out and make sure the plungers don't bind anywhere.
MEP001
Well-known member
This isn't a search engine. Try and form your question as if you're actually talking to people if you want anyone to help.
How do you confound fellers properly clean them brass solenoid stems on 1/4" 4 port brass manifold, I can't find just the stems?
MEP001
Well-known member
I roll up a piece of Scotch Brite so it fits tight inside the stem and spin the stem over it until it's clean. The regular green stuff will work, the purple works better if you can find it.
Clint, pictures are always nice. I've never had to clean a valve stem, mine are all stainless.
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I was thinking these till he said brass manifold
Earl Weiss
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On those rare occasions where plunger seems to stick in the stem a shot of WD 40 seems to solve issue.
What chemical are you running? I run PS through a brass Kip 4 outlet manifold. The PS will erode the brass between the orings under each solenoid and allow it to leak through (not hold pressure using a flojet). I've had success milling the seating surface of the orings to get extra life out of the manifolds. Could this be your issue? For me,, The manifolds last about 4-5 years running PS before they start to fail. If SS manifolds weren't so expensive, I'd switch!
MEP001
Well-known member
For the cost of SS block manifolds you can build a solenoid tree with Kip metered solenoids.
I dont know what you are talking about but I'm interested as I have yet to rebuild my tire cleaner manifold.
Greg Pack
Wash Weenie
KFPanda, if you are rebuilding GC manifolds be aware that GC sells stainless manifolds with brass plunger stems. The replacement brass rebuild kit is around $35 each. Be sure to upgrade to stainless plunger stems if you are using corrosive chemicals, which are about $55 each (kleen rite pricing). If you have to rebuild the entire manifold you can get a nice new one that is all stainless for not a lot more than rebuilding. But make sure they are indeed stainless plungers stems.
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MEP001
Well-known member
This was an experiment for a guy that worked really well. The adjustment screws are easy to get to, and I bent an old license plate to hang over the next solenoid down so when you service the one above the soap doesn't dribble onto the ones below. The 1 1/2" long nipples leave room to change a solenoid without removing the coil or stem, which I've had to do a few times over the years.
Thanks for bringing up using SS kips in place of the brass manifolds! It made me remember I already solved this problem for when the current Brass manifold for PS fails....I found this 1/2"x1/2"x1/2" SS manifold online for cheap....I only had 1 metering KIP for illustration, so use your imagination...If one of the valves fail (which I haven't had one fail in 12 years) you would have to take the coil and stem off to get the valve removed. But I'm thinking its not that big of deal...It would still be a pretty quick fix. Especially using push connect fittings.
Links:
HomeFlex 11-050504 1/2'' x 1/2'' x 1/2'' FIPT Manifold, Stainless Steel 811000110503 | eBay
HomeFlex 11-050504 1/2-Inch x 1/2-Inch x 1/2-Inch FIPT Manifold, Stainless Steel - Amazon.com
HOME-FLEX 1/2 in. x 1/2 in. x (4) 1/2 in. CSST FIPT Stainless Steel Manifold 11-050504 - The Home Depot
Home Depot Has the best price I could find. $19.51... Pretty good buy. I doubt you can build a SS or Brass one for that $$$$
HomeFlex 11-050504 1/2'' x 1/2'' x 1/2'' FIPT Manifold, Stainless Steel 811000110503 | eBay
HomeFlex 11-050504 1/2-Inch x 1/2-Inch x 1/2-Inch FIPT Manifold, Stainless Steel - Amazon.com
HOME-FLEX 1/2 in. x 1/2 in. x (4) 1/2 in. CSST FIPT Stainless Steel Manifold 11-050504 - The Home Depot
Home Depot Has the best price I could find. $19.51... Pretty good buy. I doubt you can build a SS or Brass one for that $$$$
MEP001
Well-known member
The original reason I put solenoids together on a stack with long nipples between the tees was because the needle valves we used were almost as tall as the solenoids. It has been a few times where I've had to unscrew the whole solenoid because the stem seized in the body. Also, with the way I angled the valves, you would not be able to get a screwdriver in to the screw if they were closer together. There is just barely enough room as it is with the setup I pictured.
OurTown
Well-known member
Did you read the reviews on those?
I read the ones on Amazon. Did you find a different source? I only found one review where they indicated one of the outlet fittings cracked. I've cracked 1/4" wall brass before too with a big enough wrench!! LOL I now use thread tape and "T Plus 2" PTFE thread sealant on all threaded joints like this. The PTFE lubricates and seals at a lower torque so you don't have to crank the fittings down to get them to seal properly. And it makes it a little more forgiving when you need things to line up the way you want them, like in this instance.
I also bought a SS block the same size as the brass base of the Kip manifold. I had intentions of reverse engineering the base to make it out of SS. Maybe a winter project! LOL.... There are some pretty intricate holes and Bottom Tapped holes inside where the solenoids mount. You ever tried bottom tapping SS?! That idea has set on the shelf for awhile till I don't have anything else to do!! LOL
I also bought a SS block the same size as the brass base of the Kip manifold. I had intentions of reverse engineering the base to make it out of SS. Maybe a winter project! LOL.... There are some pretty intricate holes and Bottom Tapped holes inside where the solenoids mount. You ever tried bottom tapping SS?! That idea has set on the shelf for awhile till I don't have anything else to do!! LOL
