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Source for T5HO bulbs

Randy

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Seems I have an issue.

My 4 foot flourescents have R17D sockets like this:
http://www.eledlights.com/t8-8foot-led-tube-high-lumen-r17d.html#.Va-j1LN2l-4

I cannot find 4 footers with this end. Anyone have a source?
Earl, I don't really think you have an issue. The RD17 ends caps on the LED bulbs that I installed were just pushed on the ends of the bulbs, a couple of them came off the end of the bulbs as we unpacked them. The end of the bulb looked like any 2 pin T-12 bulb, I just pushed them back on.
 

Earl Weiss

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Earl, I don't really think you have an issue. The RD17 ends caps on the LED bulbs that I installed were just pushed on the ends of the bulbs, a couple of them came off the end of the bulbs as we unpacked them. The end of the bulb looked like any 2 pin T-12 bulb, I just pushed them back on.
So I have to see basicaly if a regular bulb will fit the socket. HMMMMMMMMMM
 

Randy

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Earl, if I waited until my ballasts went bad before changing over the LED bulbs I’d really be old. In 32 years I changed out 4 ballasts in 12 fixtures. Changing out the tombstones or Fluorescent sockets is no big deal. I had to change mine when I installed the LED bulbs, my RD17 sockets were the old style that were horizontal. I talked to ELED lights and they don’t handle the 4’ HO LED Bulbs. If it were me I would change out the tombstones. There easy enough to do. A regular LED bulb will not fit into the RD17 socket, don't even try.
 

2Biz

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I got my 3 bulb fixture at smartlightingsolutions.com...If you call them ask for Michele and tell her Jeff sent you!

I have a correction though...She told me the bulbs were 2750 lumens....But after looking at the website, the clear lens 22w bulbs are 2500 lumens and the frosted ones are 2000 lumens each...Here are the links:

http://products.smartlightingsoluti...e-lsv-led-vapor-tight-fixture/lsv3xt8use4806?

http://products.smartlightingsoluti...s-high-lumen-frosted-led-t8-lamp-by-ledxpert?

If you do a search for LED t8 bulbs online, there are many places that sell them. I've found the 22w tubes for as little as $11.50 each for the 50,000 hour bulb...BTW...The fixture comes with all SS clips and hardware. There are 8 clips that hold on the lens....I only had 4 clips installed to check fit when I snapped the picture.



 

mjwalsh

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It seems like the following should not be ruled out for some of us based on the IP67 & coupled with a good deal on IP67 MeanWell 12VDC power supplies & a good deal from a bulk sales aluminum flat outfit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Superbright...ht-/281670911687?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 It shows the more waterproof IP67 16.4 foot length can be cut into smaller segments with some nifty connectors. The calculations of 730 lumens per foot & less than 8 watts per foot makes sense to me. We did something similar in our laundromat non waterproof wise about 7 months ago & it made sense for us! Make sure to multiply the LED wattage by 1.25 to allow for a cushion when sizing the needed power supply wattage as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QA26UB8qFs

In the extra wet car wash environment ... I am thinking that waterproof very high bond (VHB) 3M tape &/or tiny tie wraps might be the best for attaching to the 2" flat 1/8" thick aluminum cut lengths. I am pretty sure the overall labor & costs would be less & in my opinion ... the end result getting away from enclosures (ugh) is at least worth checking into!

mike walsh www.kingkoin.com
 

2Biz

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So is your LED strips that are taped or zip tied to the aluminum out in the open in an "Extra wet car wash environment"? Or do you have them in an enclosure? I don't know if I would want any wiring out in the open at the CW....Sounds like a lot to go through if your retrofitting current MH's, fluorescent's, or CFL's? Wiring, power supplies, etc...

With the LED Tubes, there is no Power Supply and existing wiring can be used. And if you already have vapor tight fixtures, its as simple as bypassing the ballast and wiring the tombstones directly to 120v...If you go the PS route, you have the cost of the PS to add to the list of things to buy. And if you have a bunch of fixtures on the same PS and it decides to take a DUMP....Well you know the rest of that story. I (Personally) think the 120v LED tubes is the way to go.

I think this thread took a 90° turn!
 

mjwalsh

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So is your LED strips that are taped or zip tied to the aluminum out in the open in an "Extra wet car wash environment"? Or do you have them in an enclosure? I don't know if I would want any wiring out in the open at the CW....Sounds like a lot to go through if your retrofitting current MH's, fluorescent's, or CFL's? Wiring, power supplies, etc...

With the LED Tubes, there is no Power Supply and existing wiring can be used. And if you already have vapor tight fixtures, its as simple as bypassing the ballast and wiring the tombstones directly to 120v...If you go the PS route, you have the cost of the PS to add to the list of things to buy. And if you have a bunch of fixtures on the same PS and it decides to take a DUMP....Well you know the rest of that story. I (Personally) think the 120v LED tubes is the way to go.

I think this thread took a 90° turn!
2Biz,

If the operator has existing enclosures they could be used to house power supplies. Since the early 70s we have been messing with all kinds of low voltage jacketed cable within the wet bays for alarm sensors, cameras, 2-way intercom etc ... so I really don't see the 12VDC wiring as being a problem ... especially carwashes with attic access. Maybe some of you have found enclosures that do not have any lens or whatever problems ... but after having used two different brands ... I have not found lens enclosures to be that wonderful after a number of years takes its toll. If the IP67 encapsulation is durable enough long term of the specific 5050 LEDs that I linked to ... I see that approach as possibly a better alternative & my calculations are showing it to be less costly & brighter for some of us especially if we do not have brand new existing lenses etc.

mike
 
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