Splatter wax too concentrated

[carwashspain]

I’m stumped with my splatter wax, which is coming out way too thick in the bays, to the point where white cars with poor paintwork are turning light pink for a week. Everything looks in order in the tank. The product is being drawn from the drum, water is gushing out from the water filler, and yet the mix is way too strong. I’ve got three tiny tips in the hose (just added a third to see what happened) and it makes no difference. It’s ripping through the product, which is the most expensive one I buy. Anyone have any ideas what I’m missing?

 

[washnshine]

I’m stumped with my splatter wax, which is coming out way too thick in the bays, to the point where white cars with poor paintwork are turning light pink for a week. Everything looks in order in the tank. The product is being drawn from the drum, water is gushing out from the water filler, and yet the mix is way too strong. I’ve got three tiny tips in the hose (just added a third to see what happened) and it makes no difference. It’s ripping through the product, which is the most expensive one I buy. Anyone have any ideas what I’m missing?

Are you by any chance using an ultra or hyper concentrate that is supposed to be mixed with water first, before sending through your system? The ultra concentrates usually require you mix with 10 or 15 gallons of water, then it can be drawn. If you have a system specifically set up for hyper concentrates, you may be able to use ultra lean tips, but it would have to be set up for the specific chemical line you are using.
Also - they do make products with non- staining dyes. What product are you using?

 

[carwashspain]

Are you by any chance using an ultra or hyper concentrate that is supposed to be mixed with water first, before sending through your system? The ultra concentrates usually require you mix with 10 or 15 gallons of water, then it can be drawn. If you have a system specifically set up for hyper concentrates, you may be able to use ultra lean tips, but it would have to be set up for the specific chemical line you are using.
Also - they do make products with non- staining dyes. What product are you using?

No it doesn’t require pre-mixing. I’m using Armorall Professional Extreme Shine Wax. I use it for my auto as well and it’s a great product.

 

[MEP001]

I've never used an Armor All product, but I used to use Warsaw. I would have random batches that would stain, sometimes yellow, next time red, so I switched product.

 

[Greg Pack]

I'd continue to tip down until it looks weak. Another option as mentioned is dilute in water in a clean container.

I have heard in the past when chemical costs increased some companies would change formulas. The simplest thing to do is to add water which could change the viscosity of a product, making it draw quicker.

 

[GoBuckeyes]

I just fired up a new Razor this past Friday and it came with a starter pack of soaps including Armor All Extreme Shine wax. I can’t believe anyone actually buys that considering I was told it costs $530/5 gallons after a 15% discount. That’s a joke! It works no better than other products that cost 1/3 of the price.

Although, if people are willing to pay that, Zep is smart for charging it.