Spot Free Filter

[Bubbles Galore]

What type of charcoal do I have to get? Is there a specific place that I should try and find it? I want to get this taken care of asap, I don't like delivering a sub-par product.

Are the membranes interchangeable? I have a ginsan RO system and I'm not sure if their membranes are proprietary.

 

[MEP001]

Any water treatment place can get you the charcoal and gravel. It's specific to chlorine removal from water and very common.

There are a few different types of membranes but the most common is the TFC. They're completely interchangeable as far as vessel size. You most likely have the 4 x 40.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

Thanks! I will make a call on Tuesday!

 

[Bubbles Galore]

I just picked up the carbon and the gravel. Any advice for switching it over? Do most RO systems have a backwash system to extend the life of the carbon?

 

[MEP001]

Some carbon filters have a backflush to keep the flow of water from channeling through the charcoal and partially bypassing it. The backflush actually decreases the life of the carbon because any flow of water through it is removing chlorine, and it's a finite process - once the media is saturated it needs to be replaced. I always set the backflush cycle to the minimum number of days the head will allow.

I've always taken the vessel into a bay and dumped it on the floor, then shoveled it up to throw it away. Someone mentioned using a shop vac which sounds a lot easier. You'll want to remove as much water as you can first, and to do that you'll run a hose down the tube in the center to the bottom and start a siphon until it's empty. Refilling is simple, after you clean the vessel, tape off the opening of the distribution tube and pour the gravel and carbon in. A traffic cone cut down to fit the opening makes a great funnel.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

Well, we got everything all set with the filter. I checked the system after we finished and the chlorine levels were at 0. That was nice to see. Now I just need to make sure that I get the right sized membrane. Here is a picture of my system, the membrane appears to have a 3" diameter. Any suggestions for a size?

 

[MEP001]

It's difficult to tell from the photo. It's either a 2 1/2 x 40" or 4 x 40". A measuring tape will determine which.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

When I take a measurement of the actual membrane (cardboard colored piece) I get a 3" diameter. That is what has me kind of stumped. I am not sure what the tolerances are on these and I don't want to order the wrong one. I sent that same picture to my ginsan supplier and contacted Dan at ginsan to see if they could give me a specific.

Waiting....

-Did anyone ever make a comment where I could find an in-line tds meter? I still plan on checking it in the bay, but I want to have something I can get a quick glimpse of to make sure I am running good.

 

[MEP001]

If the housing is 3", then the membrane is a 2 1/2 x 40.

http://www.waterfilters.net/Reverse-Osmosis-TDS-Monitor-Sennotech_p_578-500.html#tablist

 

[mjwalsh]

Our TDS Meter Setup

-Did anyone ever make a comment where I could find an in-line tds meter? I still plan on checking it in the bay, but I want to have something I can get a quick glimpse of to make sure I am running good.

Bubbles,

About the in line TDS meter. What we did was where it comes into the tank we sculpted & mounted a small plastic container to house the TDS probe. It is immersed in water & when the permeate is being made it is small enough to alert us to a sudden change in TDS. It accomplishes the same thing as an in line if you can find one. The attached picture also shows a pH probe that we use because of our chlorine tolerant CA membrane can't tolerate high pH. The pH tells us if our buffer is working properly. You are using the charcoal filter which is probably easier than the buffer so the pH meter is not relevant to your setup. I am mentioning it to resolve the question of "why 2 probes" I suppose a chlorine probe might be compatible with this type of set up though----that is something I have not personally tested.

The TDS meter has alarm ranges & has been mounted for over 6 years now trouble free so it appears to be reasonably durable.

Sigh---now if I can get a little more help on our Pet Wash Equipment Questions it would nice.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

Thanks MEP and mjwalsh! Once I get a new membrane in there, I should be running the purest water in town.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Bubbles Galore]

Here is the problem. I changed out my membrane with a new one. It was the exact same filter model number and manufacturer. I get everything put back together and my output seems to be a little off. I was only producing about .5 gpm good water and 2 gpm of reject. I also noticed that my procon pump that circulates the water through the system was at about 500 psi when it is normally around 400 psi, and it was getting warm (it's a Dayton 1/3 Hp single phase motor). I checked the membrane and everything looked good, we put the new one in the same way the old one was taken out. I made sure to lube up all the gaskets before installing. I am at my wit's end. Please HELP!!

 

[JGinther]

It may be working the way it was originally set up - It may be fixed. What is your incoming TDS? Does your unit have a recycle valve? 500 psi doesn't sound right for a procon setup... Are you sure your gauge is correct? Was the pump getting warm or just the motor?

 

[MEP001]

It should only be at 200 PSI max. Either your gauge is off or someone closed the reject valve too much to compensate for a partially clogged membrane. With your system you should be rejecting at least 2 parts for every 1 of product, but you may need to reject more to keep it under 200 PSI.

I'll draw you up a rough diagram to replumb it to make product at 1:1 if you like - it's a simple and inexpensive job and will even increase your production.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

My tds was good. It was at 2. I am not sure that the gauge was working correct. The motor was the only thing getting hot, not the procon pump itself.

Mep - There is a regulator on the reject side, but I am not sure that it is working right. I have to do a little more investigation to see what the deal is. I adjusted it up and down last night and it didn't do much of anything.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[MEP001]

The motor should get hot since it's only a 1/3 hp, but it shouldn't get so hot that you can't touch it. Usually if the gauge reads zero when everything is off, it's okay. If it shows 200 PSI with no pressure, it may have that as its "new zero" and you subtract that from what it shows as working pressure, or you can just replace it.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

I replaced the gauge and it works good now. 80-90 psi while running.

I guess I must not have paid enough attention when I had the old membrane in there. All is well and the TDS is reading at 2, which is sweet! My system must not have as much capacity as I originally thought. Either way, everything appears good now.

How often do you guys check your system?

 

[Ghetto Wash]

Adjust your regulator until you get 150 psi. Replace the regulator if it is not working like you described earlier. Then your production should improve to where it should be. You will reject a lot with only 80-90 psi. I only check mine when I think about it - about 3-4 times per year.

 

[MEP001]

You can run it up to 200 psi, but I doubt you'll get that pressure with a 1/3 hp motor and Procon, at least not without tripping the motor's thermal protection. 150 should be no problem, and your product/reject at that pressure should be between 1:1 and 2:1.

With 8 bays, even with seven if you convert one to a pet wash, if you start getting busy you may need to upgrade the RO system. A 2 1/2 x 40" membrane is only for 800 GPD systems.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

I am going to be putting in an automatic later this summer and that is definitely something I will have to upgrade.

I don't see anywhere that I can increase the amount of pressure I am pumping through the procon. Any ideas?