Spot Free Help

[slash007]

Try bypassing the low pressure cutoff switch. If you end up needing one I have a link at work for a replacement.

I tried to bypass the cutoff switch, but don't think I did it correctly so I put it back the way it was. What wires do I need to combine to bypass it? BTW, when the RO was called upon to make SF water, I noticed that the low pressure cutoff activated.

Thanks. View attachment 1004

 

[slash007]

To add to my last post since it won't let me edit, I also noticed that the pressure gauge on the RO was only around 50PSI instead of the usual 180 when it was running. The pressure gauge near the small filter would drop from around 50 to 0. Hopefully that helps.

 

[slash007]

More updates.. My pressure is dropping to 0 when the RO kicks on, causing the low water cutoff to turn it off. I verified that there is sufficient pressure coming into the system, good pressure after the small filter, and good pressure going all the way to the solenoid valve. I bypassed the charcoal fitler to make sure that it wasn't restricting flow. I verified that the solenoid was getting 24v and opening when called upon. Not sure what else could be causing the pressure to drop to 0. The pump is turning on as well. What else is there to check? Could the pump be bad? Something with the membranes?
Thanks.

 

[toddmullens]

Chlorine in the water will foul the membranes so don't keep the charcoal filter bypassed. Check the prefilter in the blue housing. Sometimes they can clog up very fast if the ro system is running while the charcoal filter is back washing. I have issues keeping enough pressure on the pressure switch when wash is busy so I bypassed the pressure switch at most locations with this type of system. Simply tie the wires that are under the screws together under one screw.

 

[slash007]

I actually got it fixed today. I called my water softener guy and spent so much time trying all of his suggestions with no luck. Finally I just studied the system thoroughly and figured out that it was the flush solenoid valve. It was staying open so the water was going out to the reject hose when the pump turned on instead of to the regulator only. I changed the solenoid today and problem fixed. Thanks.

 

[mac]

Todd, to be precise, chlorine doesn't foul the menbranes, but it eats holes in them. Then the flow and TDS both increase.

 

[slash007]

I was at the wash this morning and caught my spot free tank being filled. My product was at 2, but reject was at 0! What could cause that to happen? Psi is still at 185, and looking at the drain, there is only a trickle of reject water. Not sure where to start looking. Thanks.

 

[MEP001]

There should be an adjustment of some sort to control flow to the drain.

 

[slash007]

There is a regulator, but turning it is not having any effect on the flow rate or PSI like it should. It use to, and I had set it at 190 PSI, but now it has no effect and it's at a constant 195. There is also a flush valve solenoid. This is on a Jim Coleman Spot Free system. I'm not sure when and why the flush valve activates or I would be able to troubleshoot it easier. I'm guessing it's either the regulator or flush valve solenoid. I did check the flow from the reject line coming from the membranes and it was strong, so the issues is in the panel somewhere.

 

[MEP001]

I forgot you have a Coleman system. The regulator is bad. I believe it adjusts the system pressure by how much it sends down the drain. The flush solenoid isn't the problem since it's either closed and nothing goes through it to the drain except the normal reject, or it's open and everything goes to the drain with no system pressure. It can't stop normal reject flow under any circumstance.

 

[slash007]

Thanks for confirming. The regulator being bad makes the most sense. Do you by chance know if there is a replacement I can buy from Kleen-Rite that would fit and screw in like the current one? I remember searching there before and not finding one, but it's been a while. I would hate to have to buy one from Coleman.

 

[MEP001]

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-32...8460-diaphragm-pressure-regulating-valve.aspx

I'm 99% certain that's the same regulator, I got one for somebody direct from Coleman and it was over $70. I kept the box, 56870-1/2 is a part number tag which is not Coleman's part number, it's 58020-R.

Do yourself a favor when you're replacing it, get some stainless bolts to replace the steel ones they use, and I like to drill out two of the holes in the panel catacorner from each other, big enough for the bolt head to pass through, so you don't have to take all the bolts out of it to mount it.

 

[slash007]

It looks the exact same except that the top outlet is 1/4" on the Coleman version. As long as there is no harm in using a reducer, I don't see why it won't work. Thanks.

 

[pgrzes]

Thats the same one, but the newer ones dont hold up very well?? I have gone through a few of these lately. I take them apart and make sure the diaphragm is properly seated and I also now add some rtv sealer to keep everything in place, they are a "pita" to change.
On the bypass setup on a Coleman pump stand. My understanding is its programmed into the plc after so much runtime it goes into a backflush mode? I didnt get any elaboration as to how often, when and if it can be done manually? Not sure if anyone here can add any more info to this? As I have never noticed the unit doing a backflush, but I know that my coleman system membranes last forever as compared to my other ro setup.

 

[slash007]

At my other wash I have the same setup and regulator has been kicking for 15 years now, so held up pretty well. This one isn't much newer, but did last around 10. We'll see how long the replacement lasts. Not sure about your questions, I'm curious as well.

 

[slash007]

Of course after I ordered 2 regulators I decided to mess with it and had some stupid idea that maybe my turning the regulator back and forth it might work. Well after turning it a bunch of times to the left, it started working again lol. Not sure if something changed, or if someone had messed with it and tightened it way too much. Is it possible that it wasn't touched and just needed adjustment? I had to turn it at least 4 full rotations before the pressure dropped.