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Spot Free Hookup

N

Noob

Active member
I’m installing spot free at the wash. I had a question about the hookup. I purchased a repressurization unit from ginsan that has a low water shut off. Apparently this has to be wired into the float switch. My current float switch just has an outlet plug on the end of it like the picture below. Is it possible to make this work? Do I need a new float switch? My RO unit plugs into the back of the float switch plug thing controls when the unit runs and doesn’t run.
Also should I install a Y strainer coming out of the RO tank before it hits the pump on the repressurization unit?
 

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Noob said:
I’m installing spot free at the wash. I had a question about the hookup. I purchased a repressurization unit from ginsan that has a low water shut off. Apparently this has to be wired into the float switch. My current float switch just has an outlet plug on the end of it like the picture below. Is it possible to make this work? Do I need a new float switch? My RO unit plugs into the back of the float switch plug thing controls when the unit runs and doesn’t run.
Also should I install a Y strainer coming out of the RO tank before it hits the pump on the repressurization unit?
Click to expand...
You'll need a second float switch for the new pump. The one you have turns on the RO when it needs to start refilling the tank, the new one should be set much lower to protect the new pump if something happens and you run out of water in the tank. Also, the one you have is sending 110 V to the RO unit, it looks like you need 24 V on the terminal strip.
 
I’ve never been comfortable powering RO machines with 120v in the SFR water tank.

Additionally, the 100 gal SFR tanks I use are only about 36” high so there’s not enough swing room for the float to open/close the circuit.

And, when the tank is filling the waves/sloshing frequently causes the float switch to open/close several times before it finally shuts off the RO machine. That’s not good for the longevity of the pump and membranes.

My solution is to use 2 Madison Float Switches wired to a 24v DPDT “ice cube” relay. The relay is wired to function as a latching relay. And 120v is nowhere near the tank.

The upper float switch is positioned at the FULL level of the tank. The lower float switch is positioned about 6” below the upper float switch.

When SFR water is consumed the upper float drops and nothing happens. As more water is consumed, the lower float drops and the RO machine turns on. As the tank fills, the lower float rises, and the machine remains running. When the water causes the upper float to rise, the switch closes, and the RO machine shuts off immediately…unaffected by the waves/sloshing.

So, it’s like a machine’s magnetic safety switch…a momentary push button switch to turn the machine on and another momentary push button switch to turn the machine off.

This set-up allows the RO tank to drain about 25-30 gallons before the RO machine turns back on. That means a 2,400 GPD RO machine will run for 25-30 minutes every time the tank needs to refill…again, that’s good for pump/motor/membrane longevity.

For Low Water Cut Off, a third Madison float switch is positioned about 3” above the tank’s outlet. That switch is connected to the Repressurization pump circuit to prevent the pump from running dry.

My installations use the car wash’s high-pressure pumps for SFR delivery to the bays…featuring a high-pressure solenoid valve and 2nd pressure regulator set to 400psi. My LWCO switch opens the 24v neutral to all the 3-way ball valves and the high-pressure by-pass solenoid valves. IF the SFR tank runs dry, the SFR selection in the bays will deliver fresh rinse water at full pressure. The customer won’t get SFR water, and the operator/attendant will realize there’s a problem with the RO system and go look at the empty SFR tank...and I get a service call.

IMG_2012.jpg
 
Noob said:
2biz,
This looks exactly like your setup. How would I connect this so it would control my 120v pump?

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Hydro Logic Hyper-Logic Dual-Level Float Switch Assembly

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Click to expand...
I think you could build something like that out of PVC pipe for a hell of a lot less than $335.
 
Heard that. I just don’t understand how I would wire it it control my production pump. I assume I would need some kind of relay?
 
Nice setup above!

Mine is a simple- a single float switch in the tank that I keep submerged with PVC pipe. Drill a hole in the top of the tank and cut the PVC to the appropriate length. On the end of the PVC glue a male adapter. Push the male adapter up through the hole you drilled and secure with either a conduit lock nut or female adapter. You can adjust the cut on/off by changing the length of the wire hanging out of the bottom. Here’s a couple of pictures to give you a better idea.View attachment IMG_0264.jpegView attachment IMG_0263.jpeg
 
Greg Pack said:
Nice setup above!

Mine is a simple- a single float switch in the tank that I keep submerged with PVC pipe. Drill a hole in the top of the tank and cut the PVC to the appropriate length. On the end of the PVC glue a male adapter. Push the male adapter up through the hole you drilled and secure with either a conduit lock nut or female adapter. You can adjust the cut on/off by changing the length of the wire hanging out of the bottom. Here’s a couple of pictures to give you a better idea.View attachment 9677View attachment 9678
Click to expand...
Amazing picture! :ROFLMAO:
 
Using an Omron LY2N24VAC DPDT relay

From your car wash’s transformer:

24v Hot to one wire from both float switches

24v Neutral to Relay’s coil (Omron terminal 8)


On the relay:

Low level float switch’s other wire connects to relay coil (terminal 7)

High level float switch’s other wire connects to relay’s normally open (N/O) contact (terminal 3)

Jumper relay’s terminal 7 to terminal 5

Jumper relay’s terminal 5 to terminal 6


Now the relay's terminal 4 can be wired to a motor contactor or “power relay” 24v coil with the transformer’s 24v neutral to the other contactor coil terminal.

Connect 120v HOT and Neutral to the contactor’s common terminals.

Connect the RO machine to the contactor’s N/O terminals.


When the float switch’s latching relay is energized (fill the tank) its terminal 4 connection energizes the contactor's coil and the N/O contacts close, providing 120v to the RO machine.

So now you’re using low voltage (24volt control power) to provide 120volt power to the machine. It’s a bit complex but much safer, IMHO… there’s no high voltage anywhere near the RO storage tank.
 
80,
Thanks for all the help. I must admit I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical. What kind of motor contactor would I need?
Also will the Madison floats linked above work with the components you linked?
 
Last edited:
Noob,
I'm not comfortable giving electrical advise to self-proclaimed electrical idiots. LOL!

After re-reading your thread starting inquiry, disregard all my excessive instructions.

Your existing or newly purchased float switch will work. Just cut the electrical plug off and connect it's 2 wires to terminals "A" & "B" as shown in the Ginsan installation manual.

Ginsan's controller operates on their installed 24V transformer. Therefore, no high voltage inside the water tank.


Also, unless you leave the lid off the SFR water tank, there's really no need to filter the outlet.
 
cantbreak80 said:
Noob,
I'm not comfortable giving electrical advise to self-proclaimed electrical idiots. LOL!

After re-reading your thread starting inquiry, disregard all my excessive instructions.

Your existing or newly purchased float switch will work. Just cut the electrical plug off and connect it's 2 wires to terminals "A" & "B" as shown in the Ginsan installation manual.

Ginsan's controller operates on their installed 24V transformer. Therefore, no high voltage inside the water tank.


Also, unless you leave the lid off the SFR water tank, there's really no need to filter the outlet.
Click to expand...
He still needs the existing one for the RO and a second one for the new pump.
 
Etowah
Thanks to everyone’s help I got the production unit hooked. While I was filling up the tank my water softener just happened to go into regen and i noticed it was overflowing my drain. In other words when the softener regens and the RO is running at the same my drain appears unable to handle the flow. Anybody have any suggestions?
 
If your softener has an electronic head you can program it to delay regeneration until the middle of the night. Also, it's a good idea to find a way to use that reject water! If nothing else dump it into your HP rinse tank
 
Thanks Greg. Great idea on the softeners. What all would I need to recycle the reject water? I assume I would need an additional float in my rinse holding tank and a pump to pump it up? My rinse tank it not all that large.
 
One more question. My delivery stand has a two outlets on the pump. One goes up to the solenoids for the bays. The other is open. Do I need to cap it off?
 

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