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The perfect pump stand , what would you choose ?

softsuds

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I'm going to remodel my 3-bay SS wash soon. Built in 1985 still has original equipment ( wash , rinse , wax , and brush ). After pricing out some SS equipment I have decided to build it myself.

So.......

Need some help choosing the parts. Need input on the following:

High pressure pump stand only at this point, I'll get into low pressure later.

Pump brand / model
Soap and wax solenoids ( brand , model, size , etc )
Unloaded, regulator, etc ? ( currently use Para-Plate)
Float valve type / Brand
Hose from tank to pump
Hose / tubing from pump stand to bay ?


Any input, ideas or suggestions welcome. I want to do it right.
 

Jeff_L

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For my self serves I use the Hypro 2414B-P pumps. For solenoids, I use a mixture of Dema and Asco. I have fewer issues with the Asco ones. For regulators, I use the Para-Plate. Don't really have any troubles with them.
 

Dirt

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Armitsu
Kip
Para Plate
Hydrominder
Goodyear
Goodyear

I use all of the above with good results, except for the pumps.
Have Hypro now, but will switch when the urge gets overwhelming.
 

tobaccofarmer

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Why don't you go with a VFD drive and cat pump? one pump for all functions no holding tanks just injectors? There is a way to do the one pump setup even without a vfd, but it would involve several pressure regulators which gets messy, VFD's for a 3 or 5 hp motor are pretty cheap? just an idea?
 

MEP001

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Dirt said:
Armitsu
Kip
Para Plate
Hydrominder
Goodyear
Goodyear
I second this, except the pump choice. I've never used Arimitsu and have no opinion on them, but I've only heard good things. I run Cat now and have had to replace every manifold (under warranty) once in 8 years - I'm getting them sleeved now so that shouldn't be a problem again.

The GoodYear Insta-Grip hose is what I prefer for hot/cold water to the pump, mainly because with the push-lock fittings you don't need hose clamps.

Splurge on nylon tubing for the runs from soap tank to solenoid to pump. The poly rubs through much more easily and will get brittle over time. Whenever I've seen push-lock hose and fittings on 1/4" lines for soap and wax I've seen cracked fittings, leaks and pumps sucking air. Nylon to the bays will also last much longer.

I've been thinking about building some mini pump stands with just the pump and motor on them, having the motor on an adjuster above the pump and using a common control cabinet. The layout we have now uses up six feet of space off the wall and has to be accessed from the back, and the idiot who installed it evidently forgot that fact and ran hoses and conduit across that space and hard-plumbed copper lines across the motor adjustments and the opening meant to remove them.
 

Randy

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Arimitsu 516 Pump
Kip 24 volt 1/8”
High Pressure Para-Plate regulator
No Float valve or water supply tank - 3/8” Generant Regulator
Inlet valves - DEMA 413P
Goodyear Hose
Goodyear 3/8" High Pressure hose
Low pressure systems - Procon pump controlled with a IDX MX-8
 

softsuds

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No Float valve or water supply tank - 3/8” Generant Regulator
Inlet valves - DEMA
Randy,

I have thought about this. You are using city water pressure through a regulator and shutting it on/off with the DEMA solenoid valve.
How and where are you injecting soap / wax ? Inlet side of pump, high pressure side ?

Thanks
 

Randy

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That is correct, I use a DEMA 413P solenoid valve to turn On and Off the Hot and Cold water and just downstream of the Generant 4HC-375B regulator I have a DEMA 203C injector. I’ve been using this equipment since 1982. I’ve never had a pump head wash out and I very seldom have any problems with any of the equipment. The low pressure tire cleaner and Presoak system I use a Procon pump controlled with a IDX MX-8 controller. The chemical tanks are higher than the pump so the pumps are in a flooded condition.
 

softsuds

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That is correct, I use a DEMA 413P solenoid valve to turn On and Off the Hot and Cold water and just downstream of the Generant 4HC-375B regulator I have a DEMA 203C injector.
so, if I understand correctly. You have city water pressure going straight into the 413p and then into the regulator ? And are you using two DEMA 203c injectors downstream of the regulator just before the pump inlet ?

What are you using for soap and wax ? Hydrominder tanks or something else ? I guess you are using solenoids on the soap and wax tanks to start and stop flow ?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to visualize the plumbing. Float tanks are the biggest pain at my wash so I would love to rid myself of them.
 

Randy

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I’ve use 2 DEMA solenoid valves one Hot, one Cold. They are “T” together on the downstream side of the DEMA solenoid valves. The Generant regulator is next in line then the DEMA 203C injector. I use a 1/8 Kip valves to supply soap and wax. I use a small Stainless steel Hydrominder tank, it holds about 2 ½ or 3 gallons of soap or wax. The only function that heated is the High pressure soap. It’s all pretty simple.
 

softsuds

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I’ve use 2 DEMA solenoid valves one Hot, one Cold. They are “T” together on the downstream side of the DEMA solenoid valves. The Generant regulator is next in line then the DEMA 203C injector. I use a 1/8 Kip valves to supply soap and wax. I use a small Stainless steel Hydrominder tank, it holds about 2 ½ or 3 gallons of soap or wax. The only function that heated is the High pressure soap. It’s all pretty simple.
Makes sense and sounds simple. I guess you are just using one injector for both soap and wax ? Do you just " T " the soap and wax together before the injector ? I wasnt aware that the injectors would work at a low flow rate like on the inlet of a SS pump. Are you using just any special hose to the injector or just regular clear hose pushed onto the injector barb ?

My foam brush setup I have now uses those injectors and they don't work the best. The problem is if you have any difference in flow from one bay to the other it changes the injection ratio on that bay. But I can see where using them on the suction side of the HP pump would not have this problem.
 

Randy

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It is very simple system. I use one DEMA injector, 1 “T” with 2-1/8” Kip valves with a short piece of ¼” OD clear tubing between the valves and the injector barb.
I just replaced a injector type foam brush system at the Army base, it never did work right. Injectors never seem to work right on a foam brush system, too much variation in water pressure. You want to use a Hydrominder and small stainless steel tank.
 

mac

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You should also consider a stack pump stand from Magic Wand. They will even build it to your specs. Takes up little floor space and easy to work on.
 
O

ONEcard

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Soft Suds
Ive built pump stands for years. 1st I would not use a static feed tank I would go direct pressure feed using Dosatrons to inject chemicals. I would plumb my boiler as a closed loop or use Instantaneous boiler.

Armitsu pumps are a must: I have used them Their great , quite and very efficient. I love all the extra ports on the pump for plumbing things up

I would use a VFD to drive (with three pre programmed speeds) on the HP pump and use that for Soap, Wax, Rinse, SFR and Med. Pressure Bug Remover. By doing this you'll Eliminate the need for a SFR Re-Pressurization pump (which practically pays for the VFD's) . I would run SFR at 350- 450. Also its nice to have a Medium pressure bug remover (650 psi) kicks the cleaning up a notch and gives some pressure to let the customer peel away bugs. Not too much that they would not use HP Soap. If you need a controller for the VFD's I have a PLC program that can control the inputs and auto select speeds on the drive (including a purge). If you wanted a copy of the program its free. contact me off forum

Erie three way valves if I were to use a tank feed System. one side is always open for full flow and is a direction flow control valve not a solenoid valve

I like Pressure feed system using Dema Valves for Inlet to pump
CFA Valves with Adjustments for Soap Throttling, and low pressure systems etc

Para Plate Regulator by passing back into the pump

Dosatrons DRE25R15 for chemical injection and low pressure systems. HydroMinder has a new hydro-proportioner that can handle more pressure and heat I have not tried them but will be giving them a shot on the next wash.

Goodyear push lock hose and barbs ( I still use clamps on the pump )
Either Stainless Steel Tubing out to the wash bay or
Synflex 3130 hose (Its a high pressure Nylon lined non metal weave) last for ever.

Pump stands I've seen a really cool stand from Dynamic Development that was built from Extruded Aluminum. Went together like an Erector set they had extra little brackets for mounting extra components values, pump etc. Real slick ca be assembled in a Day I would assume and does not require a fab shop.

Zack
 

RAATCB

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Cat Pump 310S
Baldor Motor
GP Pulazar Unloader
Parker Solenoid Valves
Robert/Bob Float Valve
Stainless steel 1/4 tubing from pump to boom
Goodyear HP Hose from boom to wand
 
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