Thickness and angle of bay cement

[Knight01]

New cement being poured in my 4 bay, contractor is asking what thickness is required. He thinks 6" but I'm sure I read 4" was adequate for a SS wash with not heavy equipment using it.

Also, what is a good angle or slope that works to be comfortable for the users to walk around but still move water quickly to the pit?

 

[MEP001]

4 1/2" minimum unless you have 16-wheeler tractors and dump trucks, then I'd recommend 6" and rebar.

I'll try and measure the slope of my bays. IMO they're ideal, enough slope to clean easily without chasing dirt around the drain while cleaning and not uncomfortable to walk on. I worked for a distributor that did full turnkey construction, and my wash was one we built in 2001.

 

[Knight01]

Thank you MEP001

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Where is this wash? If it’s in a cold climate, keep in mind that you will need to heat all that concrete.

 

[Roz]

Where is this wash? If it’s in a cold climate, keep in mind that you will need to heat all that concrete.

And you want a good base under the concrete. We used crushed stones under a 6” concrete with rebar and floor heating. I think the pitch to the pit is 10 deg. If you are pouring new floors I would add PVC for the foam brush and wand holder to drain directly into the pit. Cuts down on the water on the floor if you have a weep system.

 

[Knight01]

Where is this wash? If it’s in a cold climate, keep in mind that you will need to heat all that concrete.

I.B. Washingcars Yes, in Ohio. I have plans for individual radiant loops to each bay. I'm not sure if I leave them on the base if they will be effective or if I put them on some type of riser if they will stay in place while the cement is pouring around them.

 

[Knight01]

And you want a good base under the concrete. We used crushed stones under a 6” concrete with rebar and floor heating. I think the pitch to the pit is 10 deg. If you are pouring new floors I would add PVC for the foam brush and wand holder to drain directly into the pit. Cuts down on the water on the floor if you have a weep system.

Roz, The heat in the floor and the pvc is the main reason for the new floors. Last winter, my first with the wash, we had 4 14x24 skating rinks and ice castles surrounding the weep guns. LOL

 

[Roz]

Roz, The heat in the floor and the pvc is the main reason for the new floors. Last winter, my first with the wash, we had 4 14x24 skating rinks and ice castles surrounding the weep guns. LOL

Floor heat lines should be zip tied to the rebar. You can get heat reflector material for underneath the lines too. Adds a bit to the cost but saves you fuel costs when system is run.

 

[soapy]

Minimum would be 1/8 inch per foot drop I think most car washes are 1/4 inch per foot drop. I have one that is more and it is easier to clean but people really notice the slope. Last wash I built the cement guys did not want the heat loops tied to the rebar so I had to put down wire mesh for the loops then rebar. I personally like my rebar on one foot centers but I think 2 foot centers is more common. Be sure that your floor loops are pressurized before the concrete is poured. I would also spec 4000 lb concrete and go with 6 inch pour. Existing wash you should tie the rebar into the walls by drilling the rebar into the walls, that way you won' have a floating slab. The rebar should also be raised, supported and in the lower 1/3 of the floor. Don't let the contractor say he will just lift the rebar up after the pour.

 

[paulagracero]

Such a screed is necessary for places of unorganized water outflow to ensure compensation for the difference between adjacent surfaces. Suppose you have an idea of the concrete floor's installation process. In that case, there will be no difficulties in performing the work. During installation, you should carefully and constantly check the functionality of the drain itself in the room. Otherwise, later you will have to spend time drilling and cleaning. It is enough to create an angle of inclination of 4" and make more than 2 inches in the height of the installation itself. Concreteservicesdenver.com does screeds like this. Ask them if you're not sure

 

[JustClean]

I've got a pretty good fall in my bays, however, my @#$% scissor-lift won't go up as it is under an angle and I can't take out the internal level.
I was also wondering if going with a different hardness would improve washout...

 

[Knight01]

MEP,
Did you ever get a chance to measure your bay slope?

 

[TurboJet]

Is there an additive or type of concrete that minimizes damage from salt? Curious to know. My bays over the years have concrete damage from car road salt and lot salting. Something for you to consider if your area has salt use.

 

[MEP001]

MEP,
Did you ever get a chance to measure your bay slope?

No, I'll try to remember next time I'm there. I will put a second tape measure in the van right now.

 

[MEP001]

MEP,
Did you ever get a chance to measure your bay slope?

I finally measured it. It's not entirely accurate because the bays level out almost a foot from the walls and apron, but with a level on a 10' piece of Unistrut I measured 2 1/4" to the floor at the end of the strut. It doesn't seem like much, but the bays are really easy to clean, other than the level parts at the walls. I don't get a lot of mud, but when I do it's pretty hard to rinse down.

The handicap bay is a lot flatter.