It really doesn't have anything to do with TF...It has to do with anything LP....I can weep between 700 and 800 gallons of water through my HP guns at 16° and below. That's at 16oz minute per HP gun...I doubt you'll keep TF or a Foam Gun from freezing at 16oz minute using weep water....Regardless, my water/sewage is about $20 per thousand.... It would be extremely expensive to keep these hoses from freezing using weep.How do you keep the foam gun from freezing? I've been thinking about a ceramic coat on a foam gun. i do NOT have triple foam and never will
How long does it take your system for air/chemical to come out of the wand when you start it?You need to inject the air into the chemical line as close as possible to the wand, which is typically the top of the boom. You are trying to create a light foaming action that helps the chemical cling to the car and provide a nice show for the customer. By injecting the air so far away from the wand it just collapses in the hose and mostly comes out as if you didn’t inject any air at all.
I think you need to remove the watts regulator and control the pressure on the pump using a air pressure regulator. In the photo, the top regulator adjusts the pump pressure and the lower regulator controls the foam air
About 10-12 seconds to come down a 16’ 3/8” hose. Some people move to a 1/4” hose to reduce the changeover timeHow long does it take your system for air/chemical to come out of the wand when you start it?
When I start mine I just have water and air sputtering out for the first 30 seconds. My bays are pretty far from the equipment room. I have a 4 bay and an 8 bay wash. I’m wondering if a check valve on my HP will make my low pressure options pressurize faster. Since they won’t try to fill up the empty HP hose. Since Im assuming the HP hose on the roof empties out of the weep from gravity and then the LP options which travel in polytubes flow both down into the bay and back towards the pump in the HP line until the HP line is full of liquid.About 10-12 seconds to come down a 16’ 3/8” hose. Some people move to a 1/4” hose to reduce the changeover time
There should be check valve for your HP line and each LP line where everything tees into the boom.I’m wondering if a check valve on my HP will make my low pressure options pressurize faster.
I have one on everything going into the T except the HP line, I’ll try adding one to the HP line.There should be check valve for your HP line and each LP line where everything tees into the boom.
Post a video.When I start mine I just have water and air sputtering out for the first 30 seconds.
Don't bother, it won't change anything and you shouldn't need one there.I have one on everything going into the T except the HP line, I’ll try adding one to the HP line.
I'll try to get a video this week. I'm currently waiting on rebuild kits for my solenoid valves because I have small constant leak of tirecleaner into almost all the lines so I'm afraid to turn the PSI up until I replace those. I'm gonna test the CV on the HP line on one bay. If it doesn't make a decent change in wait time for the air products to the wand I won't keep it. Last thing I want is another CV to be replacing.Post a video.
Don't bother, it won't change anything and you shouldn't need one there.
What are you referring to when you say Fluid Control Valves? The solenoid valve blocks?If you use the same Fluid Controls valve I mentioned in your other thread, make sure you use at least 3/8". I put a 1/4" on a medium-pressure spot free line once, and the plastic tabs that hold the valve together broke off and let the poppet blow through and jam into the fitting.
That's actually a good thing. If the check valve fails, high pressure will come back through the air line and bleed out from the regulator, and it's your indicator that there's something wrong. It won't do any harm, and it prevents blown tubing lines.If the chemical PSI is too high it ends up coming out of the air regulator at the air valve block.
Your Flojet is probably bad. When the diaphragm fails, air gets through the break and comes out instead of product. If you disconnect the line and run the pump with no pressure on the output, it will pump only liquid, so it's hard to diagnose.
Yeah the acidity of the low pH presoak seems to eat the flojet. We will be switching to high pH soon as our distributor suggested, so maybe the flojet will last longer. I have some viton rebuild kits and like 6 disassembled flojets. But sometimes I take apart a flojet and everything looks fine, but the pump still fails. But then I also have flojets that have run perfectly for years. They’re hit or miss. We have different CV across the bays we use what we can get when they break haha! That’s probably the nicer looking bay because it was all replaced at the same time.That's actually a good thing. If the check valve fails, high pressure will come back through the air line and bleed out from the regulator, and it's your indicator that there's something wrong. It won't do any harm, and it prevents blown tubing lines.
Your Flojet is probably bad. When the diaphragm fails, air gets through the break and comes out instead of product. If you disconnect the line and run the pump with no pressure on the output, it will pump only liquid, so it's hard to diagnose.
Those SMC check valves are not well suited for high pressure. They work, but they don't last, and eventually the o-ring will come off, or the spring will unscrew itself, or the whole thing will come apart internally.
I wouldn't put a low pH product in the hands of the customer anyway, but the Viton Flojet should be able to handle it.
That's why I don't rebuild them. Two of the three kits cost as much as a new pump, and I've never had a rebuilt one work reliably. I've already bought a couple of Procon pumps and motors to switch back to as the Flojets fail. I have decent luck with Flojets and I love how easy they are to change, but I can't handle the downtime. Also I want to run presoak at 125 PSI.
Have you ever thought about going to a pump that will hold up a little better than a Flojet pump, something like a Procon pump. We only use the Flojet pumps on the Foam brush system. I've had one Procon pump failure in 26 years.Yeah the acidity of the low pH presoak seems to eat the flojet. We will be switching to high pH soon as our distributor suggested, so maybe the flojet will last longer. I have some viton rebuild kits and like 6 disassembled flojets. But sometimes I take apart a flojet and everything looks fine, but the pump still fails. But then I also have flojets that have run perfectly for years. They’re hit or miss. We have different CV across the bays we use what we can get when they break haha! That’s probably the nicer looking bay because it was all replaced at the same time.