Ultimate Doors Belt Info

[Buzzie8]

I need to buy two replacement belts for my Ultimate doors. Ultimate charges a fortune for these. These are belts that look like a kevlar timing belt but are open ended and not looped. I found this website:

http://www.polytechdesign.com/beltscover.php

who looks like they sell them for much less, but I am not sure how to spec them out. I am also not sure of the composition of the belts. If I can buy better quality for less, I am going to go for it. Anyone ever replace their belts though anyone but the OEM?

 

[Bill Manke]

I have 4 of the belts off off my 10ft doors. They were new last year. I hate them. Changed to chains instead. If you want them make me a offer. 775-771-3637 Bill

 

[Buzzie8]

Thanks Bill I will call you later today.

 

[Reds]

I deal with the belts all the time. I do know that they have steel wires inside of them,l so any aftermarket belts will need wires too. I am also going to change to chains in the spring.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I had chains years ago and changed to the belts...good riddance.

 

[lag]

Not to hijack the thread...

Do the belts break ?

Any other issues with these doors?

I ask because we are needing to replace some doors sooner or later ,and have looked at this style of door.. Thanks in advance for any feedback!

 

[Reds]

in a cold climate the belts tend to jump the teeth when the door sticks during extreme cold temps. Sometimes they break if the door is froze to the ground. Mostly cold weather issues. I just installed a refrigerated air dryer on the air line and tomorrow will be putting Winterguard Wet heat tape and insulation on the cylinders. Hopefully this will help make the doors operate smoother and not stress the belts. I am still working on how to stop the doors from freezing to the ground.

 

[pitzerwm]

What about running a loop or two of heat tape where the door touches the floor, use epoxy or something to protect it. Or maybe a 1/2" electrical conduit with a heat tape in it. Not a big deal to drive over it and shouldn't collapse.

 

[washnvac]

Here is the issue with the belts on the doors. They switched to all those uhm (plastic) bearings. With the belt system, it needs to be really tight. The more you tighten the belt, the more resistance you place the shaft under against the belt. That resistance causes the belt to slip/jump. So you tighten the belt more. Works for a while, then slip. So more tightening. You get the idea....it is a losing battle. I have 10 doors. I have switched back to chains and greasable bearings on all but 2. And I have those parts waiting to be put on. Keep that chain lubed good, and it will last 2 years plus, depending on usage. Plus---entire spare chain with turnbuckle is only $35 from KR. You can convert a door for about $100. Still using the belt for the counterweight, though. I have not had much issue with those. I do keep one spare. They are $270 from KR.

 

[lag]

Thanks eveyone for the insite on this type of door.. Our bays have radiant heaters in them close to the front door.. Anybody have radiant in thier bays? Does it help with the cold weather issues?

 

[Reds]

I have radiant heat in my bays and a loop of pex under the doors. The bays are kept in the low 40's. But the door cylinders are right inside of the door jam. I have tried different kinds of weatherstripping around the doors to seal them but the wind keeps blowing thru and freezing up the cylinders. Today when I install the heat tape on my cylinders I am going to put foam insulation on them too. I notice the doors are operating smoother with the air dryer on. But in the spring I am doing real bearings and chains no matter what. Another issue I have with doors is that when the entry door is open and a car rushes past the UC spray before it shuts off the door gets soaked on both sides. Then the door closes and a little of the water freezes before it can run off. Over the course of a day I get ice an inch thick built up on the top 2 sections of the door, which adds a lot of weight to the door. I have to break it off with a rubber mallet. The ice also builds up between the hinged sections of door and acts like a wedge when the door tries to close. For me winter is a real challenge regarding the doors. Especially when it is in the single digits and we are busy due to salt on the roads.

 

[pitzerwm]

Sounds like you need to redesign the UC. Change the angle, remove the two outer nozzles??

 

[Buzzie8]

I know this is an old thread but I am going to start preparing my ultimate doors for the winter. If any of you guys switched over to chains and want to sell your old belts, let me know. I need some decent spare part belts.