What's new

Under roof trough?

cantbreak80

Maybe I need new clubs
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
1,131
Reaction score
585
Points
113
Location
CO
Each section is 22 Ga., 10’ long

5.5” x 8.5” with a 1” lip

Figure around $80-$90 per 10’ section (2 pieces) for the steel. Plus, insulation, glue, screws, strut, cushion clamps, nipples, couplings, hole saws, etc.

Look closely at the pics and you’ll notice the top and bottom are identical. Secure the bottom section to the roof and simply place the top section over the completed installation.

No hinges required.

Heat cable clips secure the cable to the strut. I’ve used two lengths of heat cable - one in each direction from the equipment room. And, a single length – looping around the entire trough. Both work fine.

I add a cheap digital thermometer to the installation to monitor the trough temps. It not unusual to see +100F trough temperature when the system is energized.

The best part about this design is when plumbing repairs are needed, the top and side of the trough is lifted off…providing swing room for wrenches. And you’re not hanging off a ladder!
 

Earl Weiss

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
6,389
Reaction score
949
Points
113
I also use the weep mizer output 2. via a relay controlled outlet box. 2 heat tapes since the ER is between bays. (different lengths since of 8 bays the ER is between bays 2 & 3.) Did not intend to loop back but I did where I had extra length.
 

Noob

Active member
Joined
Oct 11, 2018
Messages
312
Reaction score
28
Points
28
Location
TN
Great information. Thanks guys!
 

mjwalsh

6 bay SS w/laundromat
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Messages
3,134
Reaction score
173
Points
63
Location
North Dakota
I use 4 or 6 inch PVC pipe and run them into large electrical boxes with hinged lids for the manifolds and only one line comes out of the box. I started using Raytheon WInterguard wet heat tape over 25 years ago and it is still working great.
Noob, you mentioned & your pic shows you have 3" PVC. I would say like Soapy said 4"-6" PVC was his choice. We have 4" PVC & cut & pop riveted continuous stainless steel hinge. We are forced to run with the doors closed during below freezing because of competition in our area. So why should we bother to put heat tape or insulation in our specific case. If you car wash is closed now ... it might be wise to run all new lines because those lines do have a limited life span.
 

Noob

Active member
Joined
Oct 11, 2018
Messages
312
Reaction score
28
Points
28
Location
TN
The car wash is currently open. I’ve had it for about 2 years now. Pvc would be the sharper way to go. Is there anyway to insulate pvc?
 
Etowah

Randy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
5,883
Reaction score
2,260
Points
113
That's the way we've done a few washes, with a 12” x 12” sheet metal trough. We had a sheet metal shop bend the metal trough. We used rigid insulation on the inside, laid everything inside the trough, manifolds, check valves everything, laid heat tape next the hoses, and put fiberglass over that and then screwed the top on. It’s been like that since about 1980.

Noob, in your case since you have everything already run nice and neat about the easiest thing you can do would be to use heat tape and foam insulation. Run a heat tape in the PVC pipe and out on the manifold and cover the manifolds with foam insulation. What did you use in the 2 years? How many bays do you have?
 

Noob

Active member
Joined
Oct 11, 2018
Messages
312
Reaction score
28
Points
28
Location
TN
I haven’t used anything in 2 years. I go close the wash down everyday/night it’s gets close to freezing. I currently don’t have floor heat so it makes no sense for me to weep water. Would be more of a liability than anything. The wash is plumbed for floor heat. Right now I’m trying to figure out if those lines are compromised or are still good. I go blow all the lines out with air and will sometimes purge with antifreeze if it’s going to be really cold.
This is not my full time job so it makes it difficult to close and open the wash. I know I’m losing some business currently bc there are days when the wash should be open for several hours before I actually get to open it.
 

Noob

Active member
Joined
Oct 11, 2018
Messages
312
Reaction score
28
Points
28
Location
TN
I haven’t used anything in 2 years. I go close the wash down everyday/night it’s gets close to freezing. I currently don’t have floor heat so it makes no sense for me to weep water. Would be more of a liability than anything. The wash is plumbed for floor heat. Right now I’m trying to figure out if those lines are compromised or are still good. I go blow all the lines out with air and will sometimes purge with antifreeze if it’s going to be really cold.
This is not my full time job so it makes it difficult to close and open the wash. I know I’m losing some business currently bc there are days when the wash should be open for several hours before I actually get to open it.
I have 4 bays
 

Noob

Active member
Joined
Oct 11, 2018
Messages
312
Reaction score
28
Points
28
Location
TN
Can you guys suggest a relay that’s activated by the weepmizer for heat tape?
 
Top