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Wall anchors for floor mat clamps

RAATCB

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I recently added more floor mat clamps in my bays, I noticed after a few weeks the screws holding the clamps get loose and some clamps actually fallen off. I bought regular anchors where you drill a hole and hammer in a plastic insert, then use a screw and washer.

Any better anchors that do not get loose or any tricks/ways of doing it?
 

MEP001

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I use 1/4" stainless screws 1 1/2" long in 5/16" holes and plastic sleeves. They don't work loose in the hollow block. I got pinned hex head pan screws to prevent tampering and they end up pretty flush.
 

Earl Weiss

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I recently added more floor mat clamps in my bays, I noticed after a few weeks the screws holding the clamps get loose and some clamps actually fallen off. I bought regular anchors where you drill a hole and hammer in a plastic insert, then use a screw and washer.

Any better anchors that do not get loose or any tricks/ways of doing it?
Need to know the type of construction before a type of anchor can be reccomended.
 

2Biz

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I have block wall covered with Extrutech Wall Panels and use 2" lead drive anchors to attach the mat hangers and wand holders. The key is to not smash the wall panels if you have them. I do this by cutting 3/4 to 1" diameter schedule 80 pipe the same thickness as the panels. I then use a hole saw to cut the same diameter through the panel. Then drill into the block for the drive anchor. When you install the mat holder and spacer, you won't smash the panel. If you have just block walls, no panels, use 1-1/2" drive anchors. I've never had one fail.
 

RAATCB

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Need to know the type of construction before a type of anchor can be reccomended.
Concrete block. In addition, is using a stainless steel rod cut to length the same as a thru bolt? What are the differences?
 

mjwalsh

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Concrete block. In addition, is using a stainless steel rod cut to length the same as a thru bolt? What are the differences?
We have concrete block walls. Over the years we have found that going clear through with either a stainless steels ready rod with SS washers & lock nuts or the more hard to find right length SS bolt has proved for us to be the more 100% "never have to mess with it again" approach for most fastening requirements other than light weight signs etc.

Our somewhat heavy duty Dewalt SDS Rotary Hammer drill has paid for itself more than once considering how many times we have used it.

mike walsh http://kingkoin.com/USA_Deficit_Reduction.html
 

RAATCB

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We have concrete block walls. Over the years we have found that going clear through with either a stainless steels ready rod with SS washers & lock nuts or the more hard to find right length SS bolt has proved for us to be the more 100% "never have to mess with it again" approach for most fastening requirements other than light weight signs etc.

Our somewhat heavy duty Dewalt SDS Rotary Hammer drill has paid for itself more than once considering how many times we have used it.

mike walsh http://kingkoin.com/USA_Deficit_Reduction.html
On my wand holder I use a SS rod cut to length and use nylon lock nuts on each end that works very well, that's only because I have access to the other side of the block.
 

mjwalsh

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Edited post to better reflect moisture considerations

I recently added more floor mat clamps in my bays, I noticed after a few weeks the screws holding the clamps get loose and some clamps actually fallen off. I bought regular anchors where you drill a hole and hammer in a plastic insert, then use a screw and washer.

Any better anchors that do not get loose or any tricks/ways of doing it?
For those situations where clear through a 7-5/8" depth block is not practical ... I wonder if something like this:

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/50303?searchMode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=

Make sure it is the stainless steel or other non rusting &/or non corroding version of whatever anchor including the one above! I prefer non plastic for strength & malleability.

It could be strong enough. Just thinking out loud ... we have had success with using a two part industrial epoxy ... that is made for use in concrete ... when a flush mount anchor has loosed up on our commercial hard mount washing machines in our laundromat.

I hope this helps.

mike walsh www.kingkoin.com
 
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MEP001

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Concrete block is not a good idea for hollow block, and I would never use steel hardware in a car wash bay.

1/4" stainless rod through the wall would be plenty strong, but a lot more trouble than 1/4" screws in 5/16" sleeves.

I really dislike the hammer-in anchors since you can't always reuse the hole if you have to remove them to replace the clamp.
 

Andy Burn

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I have block walls and right now the floor mats are attached with hex bolts. However, when these bolts were removed they leave quite a hole as is apparent from the attached picture. My question is that can I use a tapcon screw to hold the new mat holders? Should I use the tapcon screw by itself or use a plastic anchor? Any other better screw options to install the mat holder?
Regards
Andy
 

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Eric H

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I have block walls and right now the floor mats are attached with hex bolts. However, when these bolts were removed they leave quite a hole as is apparent from the attached picture. My question is that can I use a tapcon screw to hold the new mat holders? Should I use the tapcon screw by itself or use a plastic anchor? Any other better screw options to install the mat holder?
Regards
Andy
Judging by the size of the hole, It looks like they were originally installed with lag shield anchors and a lag bolt . This is a perfectly acceptable way to anchor the mat hangers. I would suggest a stainless steel lag bolt. You can probably get the SS lag bolt from McMaster.com if Lowe’s doesn’t have any.
I’d try to reuse that hole since it looks to be in good condition. If it is unusable you can fill the hole with hydraulic cement and drill a new hole for whatever fastener you’d like to try
 
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