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Wall Paneling

DiamondWash

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Was there any new innovations for wall paneling at the ICA show or any new companies? I am in the process of trying decide which company to go with to panel my 2 automatics and 3 self serves.
 

Reds

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I am looking to do my IBA's. I would like to do my SS bays but I have people beating stuff against the walls and I am afraid it would get damaged in the SS.
 

Bubbles Galore

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I am looking to do my IBA's. I would like to do my SS bays but I have people beating stuff against the walls and I am afraid it would get damaged in the SS.
I feel the opposite in my situation. There is much conduit and things on the walls in my IBA, that a panel retrofit would be very difficult. Conversely, I think the product (wall paneling) is robust enough to deal with the self serve conditions...isn't it?
 

GoBuckeyes

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Bubbles, some is and some isn't. We built our last wash in 2007 and used Extrutech in both the self serve and automatics. It's a no brainer in the autos. As for the ss bays, I wish I had used something else. Looked great at first, but now it's riddled with holes from accidents and/or a**holes. Our bays are only 16 ft wide, so I'm sure that doesn't help. Maybe your customers respect your facility and are more careful than mine, but for the price and the fact that you can't easily patch a hole without it looking crappy, I would go with something else.
 

Ghetto Wash

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I get graffiti scratched into my plastic vac domes. Plastic walls in my SS bays would just be a blank canvas for the a-holes.
 

GoBuckeyes

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GoBuckeyes, it is no problem to replace an Extrutech panel. I've done several.
I've replaced a panel or two myself, however, when you have a 10' tall by 2' wide panel that only has a softball sized hole in it, it seems like overkill. Especially when you have 5 bays, each with at least 3 to 5 bad panels at what, $2/sq ft?
 

Earl Weiss

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FWIW one of the reasons I went with the flatter glassboard panel as opposed to extrutech was fear of just what you talk about , dents etc.

I was going to use the smooth like I did in the tunnels because I saw a guy who did it and it looked really great. Then a guy told me how idiots like to scratch graffitti in the smooth stuff. I went with the pebbled finish instead.

Glad I did. Been a couple of years and no issues.
 

soapy

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I like th plastic panels sold by farm tek. You can buy different thickness and different sized sheets. It has worked better for me than the FRP panels.
 

DiamondWash

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Nu-Form says that they have a "heavy duty" style called Renu wall paneling that is reversible especially helpful for self serve bays
 

Bill Manke

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We use farmtek panels also. Got 4ft x 10ft x 3/16. Then cut down to 2ft x10ft. Have strips where the panels come together. Oversize all holes to allow for expansion. Drilled all the holes even so panels can be flipped to use the other side if they get damaged. I have only had 1 damaged. With them being solid no worries about holes being punched in them.
 

mjwalsh

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I like th plastic panels sold by farm tek. You can buy different thickness and different sized sheets. It has worked better for me than the FRP panels.
Soapy, Bill, & others,

Do you find the Farm Teks easier to keep clean or is that charactaristic exactly the same as the FRP? Is 3/16" thickness the best? If an operator was fussy about with hole placement & alignment like Bill does ... flipping them seems to be something to consider.

mike
 

soapy

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I find that the farm tech panels clean a little easier than my FRP panels. I left mine 4 foot wide. I used the metal V strips they sell between the panels. I had the metal strips powder coated white before using them. It has worked out well for me.
 

Ric

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I've used frp in my tunnel and in ss bays in the past. Seven years ago I took my busiest self serve wash ( 5 bays/1 iba) and did all the walls with vertical vinyl siding. I attached it with tapcons directly to the block walls. It has held up very well. We clean it twice each year with acid. It looks like new. In between we just power wash it using the gun. I have not yet replaced any panels although I have a few that are cracked and I should replace. Replacement should be fairly easy using a cheap tool that "disengages" the panel. Mounting the panels directly to the wall with no gap in between (furring strips, etc.) is the key. Mine have a raised rib every foot. If you strike it there just right it can crack. It's probably more likely to happen in very cold weather. It's available in many colors from any local building supply. It cost about $2500 in materials to do the entire 6 bays at that time.
 

Bill Manke

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Farmtek item #108403
83.00 each 4x10 panel.
Item # XR2545 bottom and top molding 8ft 11.25 each
Item # XR 2594 upright trim 8th 11.25 each.
I would have liked to had 10 ft trim but it wasn't available.
 
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