What's new
Car Wash Forum

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Weep solenoid valve

carwash1970

New member
Replaced the solenoid valve on my weep system and now it will not work right. Hopefully I can explain this. First I replaced it with a N.O. solenoid. When the weep system was supposed to be off it was on. When it was supposed to on it was off. So I swapped the wires around and it did the same thing. I then put a N.C. solenoid on, it did the same thing. Swapped the wires again and it still did the same thing. Anybody know what I might be doing wrong?
 
When you say "swapped the wires around" do you mean you literally disconnected the lead wires and put them on the opposite wires for the solenoid? If so, I don't believe that will accomplish what you're trying to do with either solenoid.

You do want a NO solenoid, for if you lose power you want it to open up and dump water down your lines so you don't freeze.

If you're using a WeepMizer, there should be two different connections on it, one for a NO and one for an NC valve. Take a look at their diagram online and make sure you're using the right connection point.
 
It sounds like you replaced a normally-closed solenoid with a normally-open, then replaced it with another normally open. There's no way for what you describe to have happened otherwise. Swapping the supply voltage wires does nothing to a solenoid's operations.
 
You need to figure out how your weep system operates.
As a rule of thumb, a weep system uses a NO solenoid so it will weep in the event of site power loss. Power to activate / control the solenoid is controlled by a thermostat wired to break the circuit when the temps drop under a certain set point. This can be done by using either an actual thermostat, or by using a Weepmiser. A WeepMiser still uses a thermostat (actually, a temp probe wired into the unit) and cycles the solenoid power on and off via a relay and a built-in progressive program, with the solenoid usually wired to the NO contact points.
Therefore, you should have voltage where the solenoid wires into the system when weep IS NOT called for - i.e. the temp is above the system set point.
 
It sounds like you replaced a normally-closed solenoid with a normally-open, then replaced it with another normally open. There's no way for what you describe to have happened otherwise. Swapping the supply voltage wires does nothing to a solenoid's operations.

I got a solenoid a couple of months ago that was marked wrong, it said N. O. when it was really a N.C. valve, I just marked it and used another valve.
 
First you ned to understand the system. Weepmisers type systems will send voltage intermittently to the Solenoid varying intervals by temperature. Since it will alternate between voltage and no voltage, both NC and NO solenoids will allow water to pass thru the sytems. The difference is NC does it when it recieves voltage and NO does it when there is no voltage.

You need to read or find the directions to see if you want the solenoid open or closed when it recieves voltage.

I agree that in any event there should be a procedure which fails safe to allow weep if the electricity fails. This will happen if the system uses NO. Mine has two lines t'd together at the supply and outlet sides. One side of the T is Normaly closed. the other is NO. (My system is old and uses the weepmizer to send voltage at appropriate intervals.) NC is tied to the wepmizer (Mine is not that brand it is an old D & S ssytem). The other plugs into an outlet which is also controlled by a regular light type on Off switch. The switch / outlet is always on . If power fails the NO sollenoid allows water to pass. It is also handy to be able to flip switch to off and check all weep lines for obstructions.
 
I agree, that you want to look through and understand how your weep systems work. As other posters have said, normally the main weep solenoid is a NO for reasons already stated. It is possible, that what you are calling the weep solenoid could be a secondary weep solenoid that shuts off the weep when the customer is using low pressure functions, so the products are not further diluted by the weep water.
 
I did not see anyone mention voltage. Did you confirm that the solenoid you replaced the same voltage as the previous?
 
washnvac said:
I did not see anyone mention voltage. Did you confirm that the solenoid you replaced the same voltage as the previous?
A 24V solenoid installed on a 110V system will almost immediately smoke and fail. A 110V solenoid on a 24V system will not open at all.

Earl Weiss said:
Also had a solenoid valve driving me batty once. Seemed my guy had put it in backward. Possibly your problem?
If you install a solenoid backwards it will just flow all the time.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top