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Weepmizer install

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My wash has had an old thermostat weep, with individual solenoids to each bay, normally closed. Updating it to the weepmizer with a single normal open. The injection plumbing for the wax and HP soap are at the pump and kinda hacked up. Top solenoid is weep (solenoid going away), 2nd is wax and 3rd is HP soap all ran into the same line at the bottom. I'm redoing all of this so my question is should I have a separate line injecting on the opposite side of the pump or a different spot or is this set up kinda ok?
 

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I just did this also. I would recommend swapping the weep solenoids with normally open and tie them into the hp soap solenoid. I haven't yet on mine and the weep diluting the soap. That said my chemical is injected though 0 pressure regulator so that might be different. I also had to add check valves.
 

Earl Weiss

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The reason for separate solenoids weep NO weepmizer generally powers and closes NO solenoids until needed to open and the weepmizer kills power to open it, That way if you have a power failure in freezing weather you may not freeze because water is flowing, Now if someone uses a bay while weep is running that bay selector can send power to the NO solenoid for that bays weep closing it
 
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So what would happen if I eliminated all the solenoids? I had in my mind to run a trunk line with the one NO at the beginning and running lines to the side of each pump that's controlled by the one solenoid.
 

Randy

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You want to use a normally open solenoid valve, I like the ASCO 8210G34 or the DEMA O474P.6D. DO NOT! use a DEMA 0414 solenoid valve they don't work very well. I have a trunk line that runs in back of the pumping equipment with a “T” off of the trunk line that supplies water to each pump. At the pump I have a “T” on the high pressure side of the pump with a needle valve and a high pressure check valve to prevent high pressure water from going into the weep system. The trunk line continues to the foam brush system to supply weep water the foam brush system. It’s about as simple as you can get, I very seldom ever have any issues with my weep system. When you mount the temperature sensor you want to mount it on the north side of the building in the shade, it’s best to make a bracket to keep the sensor about 4” to 6” away from the building and don’t mount the sensor in the bay if you have floor heat, you’ll pickup heat from the floor. I’ll try to get some pictures on Saturday.
I install a switch between the Weepmizer and the solenoid valve. I do this to turn off the power to the solenoid valve in the summer months. The weep valve I put a ball valve (yellow handled valve) in front of the solenoid valve so I can turn off the water to the weep system. Just downstream of the solenoid valve I have a "T" just is where I connect air and pump in windshield washer fluid in the winter months when I shut the car wash down. The normally open solenoid valve is the only valve in the weep system. The connection of the weep water to the High pump is just after the Cat 310 pump. The there is a high pressure check valve and a needle valve to adjust the flow. The weep water to the Foam brush is a simple manifold with a low pressure check valve and a needle valve for each bay. I've never had a problem with the soap being diluted by the weep water, the foam brush pressure is higher than the weep water pressure.
 

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Hey Randy, thank you for your detailed reply. That sounds like a great plan, I will probably utilize it. If you have time for the pictures I'd appreciate it highly.
 

cbchevy4x4

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I have 1 master NO solenoid that provides the weep to all the bays. I have on each bays weep line another NO solenoid going to the Low Pressure Functions. If someone turns on tire cleaner or presoak for instance, the NO weep solenoid is energized and closes so the Low pressure function is not diluted with the weeps water flow. You could do the same thing on the Foam brushes if you weep them as well.
 
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