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Which 1" float?

Waxman

Waxman

Super Moderator
My IBA float is getting old. I've already replaced the pin that holds valve body to float arm, as well as float arm, rebuilt valve seals etc.

Have you guys had luck with the Topaz Industro 1" valve?

I have one on my SS main feed tank I installed over a year ago and it's great.

But the auto has to be bulletproof, IMO. What do you think I should replace mine with?

TIA/Waxman
 
+1 Get the topaz and forget about it. I tried 3-4 different models before settling on the topz 4-5 years ago. Had to replace one after a couple of years, but the rest have been set-it and forget-it.
 
Waxman said:
My IBA float is getting old. I've already replaced the pin that holds valve body to float arm, as well as float arm, rebuilt valve seals etc.

Have you guys had luck with the Topaz Industro 1" valve?

I have one on my SS main feed tank I installed over a year ago and it's great.

But the auto has to be bulletproof, IMO. What do you think I should replace mine with?

TIA/Waxman
Click to expand...

The Topaz is all we use now.
 
We tried some Topaz floats several years ago. We had problems with them sticking in the ON position. We could shut the water off, then turn it back on, and the valve would work normally. This happened on several of the valves. Hopefully this is a problem that was fixed.
 
I've replaced the diaphragm in the Walters float valve that's in the touch-free's cold water tank only once in the last nine years. The worst problem I've ever had with them is a VERY SLOW overflowing of the tank when the diaphragm needs to be replaced. I've never had one stick open or closed.
 
When I worked for a distributor, almost every customer that bought a 1" Hydrominder for a float valve had it stick closed at some point and removed it.
 
MEP001 said:
When I worked for a distributor, almost every customer that bought a 1" Hydrominder for a float valve had it stick closed at some point and removed it.
Click to expand...

I fall into that group as well. The best solution is a solenoid valve behind the float valve. That way you can use most any old valve, leaking or not. I have had catastrophic (full on) float valve failures and they don't amount to a hill of beans since they stop overflowing when the pump shuts off.
 
I like IB's idea of a solenoid behind the valve.

Mep...depending on the water quality, the diaphragm can have some buildup that can cause opening issues. With mine if I start seeing the flow get weaker (like all my hydrominders) the diaphragm needs to be cleaned.

I also have a pressure reducing valve to 45lbs...that may help out.

I have had so much trouble with bob valves leaking I gave up on them. I did buy a Topaz to try, but have not yet the need to use it since the hydrominders have been so good.
 
So I installed a 1" Topaz Standard Float Valve and it leaks about 4oz per hour. I have looked at it closely and haven't found a problem with it. The water pressure is 82psi (but the specs say good to 100psi). Any ideas?
 
I put a pressure limiting valve and got it down to 45 lbs...no leaks. Kind of ticks me off as the spec says good to 100psi.
 
I.B. Washincars said:
I fall into that group as well. The best solution is a solenoid valve behind the float valve. That way you can use most any old valve, leaking or not. I have had catastrophic (full on) float valve failures and they don't amount to a hill of beans since they stop overflowing when the pump shuts off.
Click to expand...

Is it very difficult to wire up the solonoid? It sure would be nice to not have to worry about overflows. Thanks for your help.
 
One way was easy enough for me to do it myself. You will need an independent transformer to power only this solenoid. My motor contactors had an unused set of contacts. I ran one wire from the transformer to the solenoid. The other I daisied to one unused contact on each bay contactor. I then daised a wire from the remaining contact on each bay to the other solenoid wire. Whenever one or more bay pump is running the solenoid is open. Since there is only one power source, there is no issue with a short. If you don't have unused contacts you can use the 24V power that activates each contactor or the 11 terminal on the bay switch. The last two ways require a controller like an IDX MX-8 or similar (Ginsan makes one). It is not as simple, but I had mine changed to this way so I could also turn off the air to the Flojets. The first way gets the job done and is easy enough for most anyone to do. The terminal 11 way is better, but got deeper into my pocket. Pick your poison.
 
IB, what solenoid did you use for the water? I like and dislike your solution. The like is obvious, but I dislike it also because it complicates a simple setup. I would also be concerned if the solenoid failed or got plugged and shut down all the pump (via the low water switch).
 
I'd avoid a Dema piston-type solenoid for that use. They have a tendency to not open fully or stick open. A diaphagm-type would be more reliable.
 
But the diaphragm type are susceptible to holding debris and malfunctioning. This is why I'm not crazy about this solution.
 
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