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WW 1.0 top boom issue

mac

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One of my customers has one of these and it's having an issue with the top boob getting stuck in the down position. I've read through all the posts concerning the boom, but none described what is happening with this one. Every now and then it gets stuck down and when we look at it one of the belts that move it will have a LOT of slack in it. It's as if the wheel that takes up the belt turned on the shaft. We will fool with it to get both belts the same tension and it works fine for a day or a week, and then the same thing. Any thoughts?
 

robtl

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One of my customers has one of these and it's having an issue with the top boob getting stuck in the down position. I've read through all the posts concerning the boom, but none described what is happening with this one. Every now and then it gets stuck down and when we look at it one of the belts that move it will have a LOT of slack in it. It's as if the wheel that takes up the belt turned on the shaft. We will fool with it to get both belts the same tension and it works fine for a day or a week, and then the same thing. Any thoughts?
Look at the spyder coupling on each side of the transmission to see if the rubber spyder insert is worn or torn up allowing one side to rotate different than the other,,,,also look for loose or bent guide rods at each end which will bind the boom,,make sure the rods are clean and not bent or scarred at the binding point. also check to make sure the boom is level with the machine.
hopes this can help
 

Ghetto Wash

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with the top boob getting stuck in the down position.
I hate when that happens. When the bottom boob gets stuck in the up position for more than four hours, you should call a doctor.:D
 

mac

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Okay, if this doesn't illustrate the fact that the webmaster needs to get an automatic spell checker when you post, I don't know what does. Or maybe I'm just concentrating on boobs. Either way, it's the top BOOM that is doing this.
 
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I've never had that happen, it has happend in the UP position and I had to loosen the belts to get it down past the prox's. Let us know what the problem was or is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Look at the spyder coupling on each side of the transmission to see if the rubber spyder insert is worn or torn up allowing one side to rotate different than the other,,,,also look for loose or bent guide rods at each end which will bind the boom,,make sure the rods are clean and not bent or scarred at the binding point. also check to make sure the boom is level with the machine.
hopes this can help
I agree, make sure the boom is level, you might need to adjust the belt or belts on either side! It has to be level or the prox's get out of wack!!!
 

Tom Thumb

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There are round bushings on the vertical rods on each side, make sure one of them is not broken and causing the boom to bind,this has happened to me before.
 

robtl

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You also need to make sure the pulley at the top that the belt wraps on has the same no of turns of belt on each side so one side wont have more turns and then will be larger and let that side go down faster.
Adjust the boom to be level by moving the belt at the boom not the pulleys.

let us know what you find
 

robtl

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I hate when that happens. When the bottom boob gets stuck in the up position for more than four hours, you should call a doctor.:D
Hey Ghetto Wash,,You said you hated when that happens, well what did the dr say was wrong with your boob that got stuck in the up position????
HA!
 

mac

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Many thanks for all the tips. Turns out there were several things happening. The top boob, er boom, has been hit a couple of times and is bent slightly, so that the bar rubs against the side tracks when in the down position. The gearbox that drives it was almost empty of oil. (Do any of you know where I can get one, even used?). The bushings that go over the verticle guide rods are worn. Not sure how bad they are, but there is almost a 1/4" gap in there. And finally I didn't think about the belts being wound evenly around the top. And while we were contemplating what needs to be replaced one of the belts simply broke right in front of us. Is there another source for the belts? The machine has been rode hard and put up wet as they say. This should buy a little more time for it.
 

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Not sure if I should have started a new thread for this, but..
Should I be adding oil to my gearboxes on a WW1.0? I grease all the pillow blocks, white lithium grease on almost everything, but was unaware the gearboxes needed regular maintenance as well. My apologies for the rookie question. YouTube certified and on my second year. Thank you in advance, if anyone sees this.
 

mac

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You should check the oil level in them, and watch for leaking oil around them. Since the gearboxes are not like the crankcase of an engine, the oil will last a long time. Check the oil level (should be about half full), and color. If the oil turns milky white, it means you have a bad seal, and the seal and oil should be changed. Most climates should have a vent plug on the top of the box, although many manufacturers don't use them. Watch for oil leaks on the ground from the drive boxes.
 
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