Ww2.0 hitting the end

[stampedecarwash]

Hello, The setscrews on idle wheel driver side keep loosening which make the machine to hit the end. When I was tightening them noticed the wheel axel has been eaten over time ( you can fill it that it has less diameter now and it looks shinier). So I added a second screw on top of the first one hoping it compensate for the part eaten. Do you think that fix the issue for a couple of month? Or no need to change the wheel.

 

[JGinther]

You probably lost a bearing if it locked up enough to turn the shaft in the bearing. The only right fix is a machine shop repair (and new bearings), or new wheel (and new bearings). A machine shop could turn it down flat and cap it, depending on how worn down it is.

 

[stampedecarwash]

I always had issue with this machine hitting the end even 3 month after changing all wheels and bearings. Until I figured its all about these set screws and kept tightening them once a week as they become loose. Two month ago changed most of the setscrews since their head were worn out. The fact that the shaft is worn out shows that it moves inside the bearing tube which is not supposed to do but it has always been doing that and thats why we have been tightening the setscrews every week. We have been very good with lubricating these bearing once a week. I don’t understand what has changed now.
If adding the second setscrew on top of he first one helps me to go back to my weekly rout, Im happy. Just wondering if anyone else has done the same.

 

[Greg Pack]

Are you referring to the machine hitting the end of the track? That is your end of track proximity switch- it is too far from the target and needs to be adjusted.

You need to change your wheel if the shaft is worn. For that machine to be reliable you need good wheels and bearings. It is probably close to 1K in parts but you should get 25K cars or more out of a fresh set.

 

[stampedecarwash]

Well I always had issues with this machine hitting the end. I wish it was as simple as adjusting that prox sensor. Even with all brand new wheels and bearings the Idle wheel on Passenger side lift itself up enough that the prox sensor doesn't recognize that stupid small piece of metal and it hits the end. I think this is just a bad design by JCH. Previously I read some people moved that prox sensor to the side so even if it lift itself up by 10" still it recognizes it and not depend on 1/8" or so. I did my own creation too (see pic) . added a strip of sheet metal that has this springy motion that when the prox sensor hits it it recognizes it.
Anyways, added the second screw and its perfect. Its not loosening up after 3 days of crazy busy days. I'm happy as long as I just need to tighten these setscrews a couple of times a week.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

You mean, relocate it like this?

 

[JGinther]

Your issue with the gantry lifting is likely because your wheels are not the same diameter or you have bad bearings. ...Or possibly your machine is bent from some prior incident. It shouldn't lift itself if it's in good repair with matching gearboxes and motors. . Also ramping the vfd acceleration parameter a tiny bit can help with the motion control.

 

[Greg Pack]

I have had to adjust the prox switch with new wheels, because of the higher profile the new wheels has. But this is a pretty simple system and I've had no real issues with it. The wheel should not be lifting off the track- that is your true problem.

In addition to what is JGinther mentioned, Check the bearings on both end of your wall boom to make sure they have not failed.

 

[Greg Pack]

You mean, relocate it like this?
View attachment 3146

Thats actually a pretty good idea

 

[I.B. Washincars]

Thats actually a pretty good idea

Well of course it is, it was mine.