WW2.0 Prox Error

[stampedecarwash]

Hello, we keep getting that alarm which says drive wheel prox sensor #2 is vibrating or wiring is not connected. Usually we see the error when the machine starts the presoak and moves for maybe a feet and then sakes the customer to exit. I have already made the prox #2 pretty fixedin its place also the electrical wiring is hooked up pretty good. But also noticed both pro#1 and2 are on sometime, but I guess only #1 should be on when the machine is in stop/start position. Is this just a matter of turning the drive wheel a bit so only prox#1 is on and prox#2 is off? (no metal in front of it, you know the wheel is in a shape of a STAR which counts how far the machine has gone)

 

[carwashireland]

I would unscrew both sensors and clean out the electrical connection first. Then check the gap. You want to be able to spin the star wheel slowly and see both lights coming on and off. Too close and they will stay on and too far will keep them off. Also check that the front of the sensors are not damaged.

 

[cebo]

Both can be on at one time. Make sure the wheel is not worn and wobbling. I would just replace the prox and make sure to put dielectric grease in the fitting. If you keep getting the error change the cable. If you get a "short wash" after that I would look at the EOT and Home prox.

 

[stampedecarwash]

thanks guys, while I was opening and putting the prox and wires back for the third times, I noticed the nut at one side of the wheel was totally loose. So I just had to screw the nut with an Allen key and BINGO. The error says the prox is vibrating, but its the wheel that was vibrating since the screw was loose ...

 

[stampedecarwash]

Update: The issue cam back, it was not the loose nut on the wheel. We noticed the prox cable (yellow 90 degree) was kind of loose. the nut on the cable seem to loose their grab after a while. So as the error was saying all along, it was a connectivity issue. We wrapped some ziplock around the cable and prox sensor to make sure its connected firmly to the prox, and we had no issues in the last 100 wash. So now if I want to fix it properly, I need to change the cable (Part# 6650-4). The problem is the cables is very long and not clear where it goes to. should I go ahead and cut the cable and splice it with the new cable I buy from Colman Hanna?

 

[carwashireland]

I personally would not add a cable joint as it is likely to corrode and cause a future issue. You are better off identifying the cable in the panel, then disconnect it and pull it out. Trying to get the new cable through the ducting is a nightmare so I typically run the cable outside the ducting and secure it with cable ties. On the inside of the door is a list of inputs labelled on a sticker, Use this to identify your cable.

 

[pcb]

To run the cable, cut the bad end off and tape very securely the new wires to it. Then trace where the cable goes and remove the covers at each junction going back to the control box. Pull the old cable toward the control box while feeding the new cable in. It's easier to pull from junction to junction so that you're not pulling so far. When you get all the new cable out of the junction then move to the next until the new cable is in the control box. When I do have to splice just an end on in a hurry, I fill up a crimp connector with dielectric grease and then crimp it on. Seems to last fairly good like that but a new cable is much better. Hope that makes sense.

 

[cebo]

I get my cables from automation direct.

https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...sh_Duty_-z-_Food_-a-_Bev._Q-z-D_Cables/EVT224

Cut the connector off at the wheel and skin the cover back, then connect the inner wires of each cable by looping them and taping. You should be able to pull them back through the conduit pretty easy. It's only about 3' long. You can look on the diagram inside the cabinet door to find the terminal on the ID 16 where the counting wires go. Just pull it back it back through and connect.

 

[Greg Pack]

I have cut and spliced when in a hurry to get the machine back running, but it is far better to run a new cable.

Be sure and cut the power off on the ECC before you cut the cable and start working on things.