WW2.0 prox sensor PNP vs NPN

[stampedecarwash]

Hi all, does it matter if use PNP or NPN turk sensor on the ww2.0 water wizard?
i noticed some starts with AP and some with AN. Does it matter?
Is there any of the machine prox sensor NPN? Or they are all PNP?
Would this prox work everywhere on ww2.0?

https://www.turck.ca/en/product/1634818

 

[sparkey]

I am not familiar with your machine but you cannot substitute a PNP for an NPN sensor. One sensor provides a negative output and one provides a positive output. The PLC input card type will determine which sensor you need.

 

[Greg Pack]

Wizards use NPN.

I use these with reasonable success. Cheap enough that if I suspect a problem I just replace them.

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/sensors_-z-_encoders/inductive_proximity_sensors/18mm_tubular/pnk-an-4h

 

[Keno]

If you call automation direct with the part number on your current sensor, they can cross reference to their sensors.

 

[stampedecarwash]

Wizards use NPN.

I use these with reasonable success. Cheap enough that if I suspect a problem I just replace them.

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/sensors_-z-_encoders/inductive_proximity_sensors/18mm_tubular/pnk-an-4h

Wow these are super cheap thanks so much

 

[Rainway]

Does someone have the Coleman Hanna or OEM part number for these?

Thanks

 

[Greg Pack]

looks like coleman # 06626 list price 149.00

 

[Greg Pack]

These are the automation direct proximity cables I use. They're well made, washdown rated, and I don't think I've ever replaces one unless I was chasing a gremlin. Only 22.00 each

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/cables_(terminated)/circular_connection_cables/evt224

These parts are so cheap that I just pull and replace if I have a gremlin. When I have eye problems I replace with the eye with the full length cable (not the short pigtail) My wizards are 15 years old and pretty darn reliable, especially considering their age.

 

[Rainway]

I’m having a problem with my boom not going down. Thought it might be prox sensors. I ordered some of these Automation Direct Prox sensors and it didn’t fix so now I’m second guessing so I just want to double confirm…

You’re saying this item:

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/sensors_-z-_encoders/inductive_proximity_sensors/18mm_tubular/pnk-an-4h

Are the equivalent / same specs as:

Coleman Hanna part 6626
Turck part# NI12U-EM18WD-AN6X-H1141/S1163

Which I’ve bought from:

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-25380-turck-ni12u-em18wd-an6x-h1141-s1163-uprox-inductive-sensor-10-30-vdc.aspx

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[Rainway]

These are the automation direct proximity cables I use. They're well made, washdown rated, and I don't think I've ever replaces one unless I was chasing a gremlin. Only 22.00 each

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/cables_(terminated)/circular_connection_cables/evt224

These parts are so cheap that I just pull and replace if I have a gremlin. When I have eye problems I replace with the eye with the full length cable (not the short pigtail) My wizards are 15 years old and pretty darn reliable, especially considering their age.

Greg, curious what else for WW2 you’ve found you can get from Automation Direct for way cheaper than OEM?

 

[Greg Pack]

I buy a lot of miscellaneous stuff from them but really the only thing I get from them specifically for the wizard are proximity switches and cables.

Wish I could find an inexpensive substitute for the multi channel banner eyes which are now around 225.00 each I think.

 

[Greg Pack]

I've been using the PNK-AN-4H and the slightly longer PNK6-AN-4H for years. Those numbers are copied and pasted from my automation direct order history.


In addition to various proximity switches check your can eyes and front and rear boom safety eyes if the boom is not going down