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Zero Pressure Regulator to eliminate Float Tanks
- Thread starter softsuds
- Start date
I’ve used the Fluid Control Zero Pressure Regulators KR #RE1000A on customer’s equipment in the past and they work well. On my equipment I like to use the Generant KR #G4HC500B pressure regulator with a DEMA 203C injector downstream. I don't have any float valves or water supply tanks. The only tank I have is for chemicals.
MEP001
Well-known member
The Zero Pressure Regulator (Weep) works very well, but in order to keep it from cavitating when the trigger is pulled/released the pump needs to be plumbed with the high-pressure regulator's bypassed plumbed back to the inlet of the zero pressure regulator.
It needs to be rebuilt fairly often, and when it does you won't have soap or wax to that pump.
It needs to be rebuilt fairly often, and when it does you won't have soap or wax to that pump.
2Biz
Thread Killer!
Has anyone tried one of the Zero Pressure Regulators on their SS pumps ? I believe its
made by Fluid Control. Sounds like a good idea..... in theory
Did you ever implement this using the same setup as Randy?
Randy - can you send me some photos of your setup? I'm interested in ways to reduce the amount of components in my system to reduce maintenance and such. For example, at one wash I have:
concentrate -> hydrominder using soft water under city pressure -> strainer -> flojet -> solenoid -> pump
If I could eliminate some of those steps, I could clean up the equipment room some.
concentrate -> hydrominder using soft water under city pressure -> strainer -> flojet -> solenoid -> pump
If I could eliminate some of those steps, I could clean up the equipment room some.
cantbreak80
Maybe I need new clubs
Pumps are pressure fed. Previous owner had issues with the zero pressure regulators so he eliminated them and added the flojets for a forced injection into the pressure fed input line into the pump. Works fine, but when the flojet goes out, then no soap. Same issue with a zero pressure regulator too, when it fails no soap either. If one could eliminate either solution and direct feed the soap with no mechanics, that'd be less maintenance.
MEP001
Well-known member
That's the way the vast majority of self-serve equipment is set up. There are three tanks, one for hot water, one for soap, and one for wax. Hydrominders keep the soap and wax tanks full and a float valve fills the hot water tank. There's a solenoid for soap, wax, and usually cold water. It takes up more room, but there's really very little to go wrong. I've replaced the valve parts in the Hydrominders only once in ten years and put a new diaphragm in the float valve maybe every two years, and nothing else has been a problem.
Might be expensive but have you looked into propane gas to heat your water?
I say "haha" to that statement! In the past year I know I've replaced at least a half of dozen diaphragms in my Hydrominders which I have 12 of. When they split, I get water runneth over. They never develop their hole when I'm there, it's always right after I lock the door and go home for the night.
I say "haha" to that statement! In the past year I know I've replaced at least a half of dozen diaphragms in my Hydrominders which I have 12 of. When they split, I get water runneth over. They never develop their hole when I'm there, it's always right after I lock the door and go home for the night.
I had this too, then I changed the chemicals and all was good.
Earl Weiss
Well-known member
Maybe I am missing something but I do not understand why chemicals would affect the diaphram. The educator that sucks the chemicals is past the diaphram. Only the fresh water should touch the diaphram unless..... there is some minor siphoning action going on. If so, the hydrominders wioth siphon breaker can be used or a small hole drilled in the top of the hose near the educator to let air in so long as nay liquid that comes out the hole would still go in the tank.
I would say between 4 locations I have over 50 hydrominders, and the tunnels get a lot more use than the SS and I don't replace 6 a year in total.
2Biz
Thread Killer!
Jeff_L,
Are you running regulators to reduce the city pressure to your pumps? I bought an HC500B Generant regulator and Dema 203C injector like Randy's pump stand is set up, but haven't had a chance to test it yet. The mechanics involved with the 203C injector has me stumped. The chemical inlet to the injector has an inline check valve to keep pressure from backfeeding into the chemical lines. A good thing I guess. But the chemical "Thru Hole" into the main part of the brass housing is only .085" in diameter. A lot smaller than the I.D. of 1/4" poly hose or an 1/8" solenoid port. Looks like a pretty small hole to get any kind of volume through it.
Another thing with the 203C is the water flow orifices supplied with the injector. The biggest one is .133" inside diameter. This is the diameter of water flow through the injector to the pump. To me this looks like another huge restrcition. But Randy says this setup has worked fine for him for 25 years... Without testing, mechanically I don't see how it will work affectively. But I'm hoping to test it this weekend. I guess if I'm not happy with this, theres always a plan "B" and that would be to pressure feed soap and wax with a flojet like you do. But then there are more parts to fail like you mentioned.
To test this setup, I'm going to run city pressure to the regulator and adjust pressure to get about 3.5 gallons a minute flowing thought the 203c injector using the biggest orifice. I'm trying to get the same through put through the Injector as it would see on the pumpstand. Then I can see how much draw I can get from the chemical inlet side of the injector. I have some spare Dwyer flow meters that I can use for testing. I'll let you know the results...
Are you running regulators to reduce the city pressure to your pumps? I bought an HC500B Generant regulator and Dema 203C injector like Randy's pump stand is set up, but haven't had a chance to test it yet. The mechanics involved with the 203C injector has me stumped. The chemical inlet to the injector has an inline check valve to keep pressure from backfeeding into the chemical lines. A good thing I guess. But the chemical "Thru Hole" into the main part of the brass housing is only .085" in diameter. A lot smaller than the I.D. of 1/4" poly hose or an 1/8" solenoid port. Looks like a pretty small hole to get any kind of volume through it.
Another thing with the 203C is the water flow orifices supplied with the injector. The biggest one is .133" inside diameter. This is the diameter of water flow through the injector to the pump. To me this looks like another huge restrcition. But Randy says this setup has worked fine for him for 25 years... Without testing, mechanically I don't see how it will work affectively. But I'm hoping to test it this weekend. I guess if I'm not happy with this, theres always a plan "B" and that would be to pressure feed soap and wax with a flojet like you do. But then there are more parts to fail like you mentioned.
To test this setup, I'm going to run city pressure to the regulator and adjust pressure to get about 3.5 gallons a minute flowing thought the 203c injector using the biggest orifice. I'm trying to get the same through put through the Injector as it would see on the pumpstand. Then I can see how much draw I can get from the chemical inlet side of the injector. I have some spare Dwyer flow meters that I can use for testing. I'll let you know the results...
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No, i'm not using a regulator between the hydrominder and the city water pressure. That seems like one of those "duh" moments right now. MEP just mentioned he thought the diaphragm might be breaking because of the pressure. I'll have to check the specs to see the min/max for the input water pressure on a hydrominder.
