XRS Door error

[Pap]

We purchased the XRS doors with a new IBA we installed a year ago. Approximately 11 months after the installation, we have run into an occasional issue with the exit door which has created a major problem. After the wash package has been completed the exit door begins to open about 30 inches and stop. The VFD populates the error "F.PF" which is a motor overload fault. When this error occurs, the stop is always going up and it stops in the exact same position.

We have been working with both Airlift & our distributor to resolve this issue. To date, we have replaced the open & close relays, VFD, motor, the complete control box (including terminal strips, power supply, relays, VFD a 2nd time, etc.), the wire from the terminal strip to the motor, and the gearbox & motor (motor a second time). The mechanical side of the door appears to be in alignment and the hardware still looks new.

There is no rhyme or reason as to why the door fault occurs. One time, I manually put up the door by selecting the open button and the door did error, therefore in my view, it is not an issue with any of the wash packages. Obviously, during the cold & busy winter months, stranded vehicles in the bay plus long lines create issues that I don't need to describe.

My hunch is that the door may be binding, but I don't know what that would be on. Is there anyone out there in the car wash world that has any suggestions on what could be causing this issue?

 

[sparkey]

The motor overload percentage is set by parameter P108. I would doublecheck that they have the correct value in it and maybe bump it up a little if you are sure its not catching on anything. The doors are not freezing to the floor causing these issues are they? You may need a password to access the drive parameters. The password in my drives were 0047. I assume they are all the same.

 

[Undertaker II]

Have you replaced the micro switches that control the open and close limits? I see you have replaced most everything else.

 

[MC3033]

Do you have anything mounted to the frame (like photo eyes)? Door could be snagging hardware if there is any on the inside of the track

 

[Pap]

Sparkey - P108 is set to a value of 100. The doors are not freezing to the floor as we have radiant floor heat.

Undertaker II - Yes we have replaced those as well.

MC3033 - There are the standard Banner eyes attached to the frame, however, they are not interfering as they are mounted on the outside of the track.

Thank you all for your replies, we greatly appreciate the input, thoughts & suggestions!

 

[Waxman]

maybe there is a problem with the manual button on the control box. Maybe some water got in and is causing an intermittent situation where the close or stop button is making a Contact when it shouldn't be.

 

[Pap]

Great thought, unfortunately we swapped out the entire control cabinet including the buttons and that did not resolve the issue either. Thanks for the reply!

 

[eckert16]

Consider that you may be getting resistance from ice in the track IF this is only with cold weather (no idea what location you ate in); infloor heat may de-ice your floors, but may not radiate enough to keep ice from building up in the tracks...

 

[Jsshac]

Is the door hanging up on one of the door reset brackets? Does it have the counter weights that could be binding was the belt greased when put in? Have you tried leaving the door just off the concrete to rule out that it’s not freezing to the floor?

 

[sparkey]

Sparkey - P108 is set to a value of 100. The doors are not freezing to the floor as we have radiant floor heat.

Undertaker II - Yes we have replaced those as well.

MC3033 - There are the standard Banner eyes attached to the frame, however, they are not interfering as they are mounted on the outside of the track.

Thank you all for your replies, we greatly appreciate the input, thoughts & suggestions!

Well guess you can't raise the current limit above 100%. I would check to ensure your incoming phases are equal and one phase is not extremely unbalanced or you are not single phasing the drive. These issues can also cause high current in one leg of the drive. Do you ever see the drive displaying CL or current limit? Have you tried speeding up the door a little and see if it makes a difference? Are you also sure the door is raising when it faults and not on the way down and reversing due to eye blockage or something causing high inrush current when it reverses?

 

[Pap]

Eckert16 - We are in Western Pa and while it has been cold simply pressing the stop button clears the F.PF error and the door will return to functioning normally.

Jsshac - The doors are not catching on the reset brackets. We don't have counterweights. The door is not frozen to the ground as it opens, but it stops in the same position when the error occurs which is about 30" off the ground.

Sparkey - I did check the power and it is clean. I saw the CL error one time after I replaced the gearbox and was moving the door for the first time. I am 100% sure that the door faults when it is raised as we get customers stuck in the bay and I confirmed that by watching the video.

Again, thank you all so much for the suggestions. At this point, we are replacing and testing everything to begin ruling out things that could be wrong.

 

[Jsshac]

Any chance you have a bearing on one of the end plates binding?

 

[Pap]

Jsshac - I thought the exact same thing last Sunday and I greased the heck out of it...hasn't had the error since . Thanks for continuing to provide suggestions, greatly appreciated!

 

[Carson0_1Carol253]

I see you have replaced most everything else.

 

[Pap]

Unfortunately, the error returned again last night. My distributor had me disable the banner door sensors today. I am doubtful this will resolve the issue, however, we are running out of options. Any other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks everyone

 

[MGSMN]

We don't have counterweights.

Maybe your distributor will get a you a counter weight kit to reduce the load on the motor during lift.

 

[Waxman]

Maybe one of the bearings you greased is going bad. I've had bearings binding up do all kinds of crazy things to the wash process. May be greasing the heck out of it made it better for a while but if it's a bad bearing maybe that's causing a binding problem.

 

[Pap]

MGSMN - We have three other doors in operation that do not have the counterweights and operate normally. The motor has been replaced twice and this door was a year old in January. I appreciate the idea and will review it with the distributor, thanks!

Waxman - Given the door was less than a year old when it started, I would assume the bearings are still good as they look brand new. Although since we have replaced almost everything else, that is a reasonable option to try next. Thanks for the idea!

Thanks again, really appreciate all the feedback & thoughts!

 

[Undertaker II]

MGSMN - We have three other doors in operation that do not have the counterweights and operate normally. The motor has been replaced twice and this door was a year old in January. I appreciate the idea and will review it with the distributor, thanks!

Waxman - Given the door was less than a year old when it started, I would assume the bearings are still good as they look brand new. Although since we have replaced almost everything else, that is a reasonable option to try next. Thanks for the idea!

Thanks again, really appreciate all the feedback & thoughts!

In this day and age never "ASSUME" anything. Brand new stuff built with cheap offshore parts offer no level confidence in this day and age!