Coin box wiring/layout
- Thread starter RAAOO7
- Start date
MEP001
Well-known member
Most washes use a different color scheme. If you post the manufacturer of the equipment, someone might have the schematic, or you could contact whoever made or installed it.
To figure out which switch goes to which solenoid or pump stand, turn on a bay and see which solenoid gets energized (by holding a screwdriver over the coil) or which pump comes on.
To figure out which switch goes to which solenoid or pump stand, turn on a bay and see which solenoid gets energized (by holding a screwdriver over the coil) or which pump comes on.
Yes I know that but how do you tie in all the control box wires with each other with out anything being labeled? I want to start wiring up my own washes and fully understand how to do it.
Greg Pack
Wash Weenie
You gotta determine the color of the wire at your wash as MEP suggested. Ideally the wire color connected to the solenoid is the same one out in the bay. To check in the bay, get a multimeter and read voltage off the back of the switch. The first step is to identify the wire colors coming in that provide 24V, neutral, and ground to the meter. These are usually black, white ,and green. You also need to identify the timed output which comes out of the timer and connects to the rotary switch. When energized, the timed output of your timer will energize the rotary switch at position 0, which will be numbered as 10 and 20. The switch acts as a gate to allow energy to flow back to the equipment room and energize the necessary outputs.
Once you have these identified the 24V, common, ground, and timed output, start the meter and turn the switch to the first function. Then read which wire now has voltage on it. You'll probably find that is the one that is 180 degrees opposite from the flat spot on the switch post (you can see the flat spot if you remove the knob.. Lets' says it's purple. Write it down. then find what color wires are energized on the other functions: foam brush, SFR,etc. High pressure functions require a separate isolated output on the second ring of contacts to energize the pump motor. This second ring usually has a wire harness with several wires connected together. So, high pressure soap may require position 14 AND 24, Rinse may require 15 and 25, wax 17 and 27, etc
If you don't know electrical, you may likely just identify different color wires and see which switch number they are hooked up on in other bays.
I have seen on rare occasions where wires have been spliced and (God forbid) even colors changed in junction boxes. But if a rational person built and serviced this wash, all bay wiring should correspond with each other.
Guys, does this make sense?
Once you have these identified the 24V, common, ground, and timed output, start the meter and turn the switch to the first function. Then read which wire now has voltage on it. You'll probably find that is the one that is 180 degrees opposite from the flat spot on the switch post (you can see the flat spot if you remove the knob.. Lets' says it's purple. Write it down. then find what color wires are energized on the other functions: foam brush, SFR,etc. High pressure functions require a separate isolated output on the second ring of contacts to energize the pump motor. This second ring usually has a wire harness with several wires connected together. So, high pressure soap may require position 14 AND 24, Rinse may require 15 and 25, wax 17 and 27, etc
If you don't know electrical, you may likely just identify different color wires and see which switch number they are hooked up on in other bays.
I have seen on rare occasions where wires have been spliced and (God forbid) even colors changed in junction boxes. But if a rational person built and serviced this wash, all bay wiring should correspond with each other.
Guys, does this make sense?
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Makes perfect sense. The only thing I would add, is I used a wiring diagram of an 8 position rotary switch and a Dixmor Timer to label all the wiring colors to the corresponding functions. You can download the diagram here:
http://bcoweb.com/photos/8+pos+dix.pdf
http://bcoweb.com/photos/8+pos+dix.pdf
mjwalsh
6 bay SS w/laundromat
I think the combination of cfcw & 2Biz's posts makes for a very good understanding of the rotary switch wiring. With the help of GinSan Industries & Dixmor we put together our remanufactured 12 BUTTON coin boxes which also gives a wee bit more customer feedback via the tiny LEDs that are next to the function label. The specific LED glows when the function is on. There are advantages & disadvantages vs a version of the button selection arrangement & the rotary switch. Of course I do not want to turn RichACW's thread into a full blown ... button vs rotary switch discussion ... no not me 
.
.Thank you for providing the schematic.
So I have an additional question regarding switch wiring since we are on the subject. My 8pos switches are wearing out and I am looking to add some features soon (spot free and air dryers) so I purchased 10pos switches. Can I just add the open positions as rinse for now via a jumper? I am assuming I just jump the top and bottom sides of the switches the same and all would be good??? Thanks!
MEP001
Well-known member
If you mean connecting the two layers with the same common switched load, it's probably already like that unless you have some really ancient switches with only one load input.
Adding a second rinse position is what I've always done to fill the empty spot, and I recommend to customers that they rinse after foam brush before using wax or tri-foam, and of course the second rinse is after that on the switch.
I wire a small relay between the timed output and the rotary switch. i think its less costly to replace a $25 or less relay
than a Dixmor Timer.l The loads dont draw that much but on chance of a wire rubs bare timer is damaged.
than a Dixmor Timer.l The loads dont draw that much but on chance of a wire rubs bare timer is damaged.
I would hope so
