Spot Free Filter

[RockyMountain]

Here is a picture of my spot free:

http://forum.autocareforum.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=218&stc=1&d=1242240141

I do believe that the filter may need changed. The flow rate has be cut and I don't know what else it could be. Unfortunately, the previous owners didn't leave any information, and I can't find a manufacturer's tag or anything. Anyone recognize this or know how I can determine what filter I need? Are they hard to change?

It could be a Dilling-Harris & Ginsan SpaceSaver 500, but I can't verify that.

 

[Dan kamsickas]

I can state with utmost confidence that is not something we built. It looks like something that was "field engineered". It looks to have a 4" x 40" membrane.

 

[cantbreak80]

Looks like a really early Crane Environmental unit...especially the membrane housing. Any 4x40 membrane should fit in the old housing.

Look at http://www.cranenv.com/...
click on "Buy Products On-Line"
click on "continue purchasing online"
click on "EPRO 150-8000 gpd"
click on "EPRO 1500"
You'll see the similarities.

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I have a Crane unit and my membrane housing looks like that also. I had to replace an end cap and they were the only place we could find it.

 

[AdamA]

That housing also looks like my Crane. Previous post is right, can use other membranes. Might check hardness, water temp etc. and then talk to Crane to determine best membrane...or look at current one. Unit will likely need adjustments once new membrane is in.

Have you changed pre-filter? I change mine when the pressure differential, from incoming to outgoing, hits 10%. Kleenrite or Crane will have them.

Might also check chlorination following your charcoal filter, assuming you have chlorine/charcoal filter. Hate to kill a new membrane with chlorine.

All pretty easy to do. Good luck.

Adam

 

[MEP001]

Might also check chlorination following your charcoal filter, assuming you have chlorine/charcoal filter. Hate to kill a new membrane with chlorine.

I always replace the activated carbon when replacing a membrane. It's cheap and fairly easy to do, and unless there's little or no chlorine in your city water the carbon is usually saturated before a second membrane is due to be replaced. It's a good idea to check your hardness regularly anyway, but eliminate it as a cause of a clogged membrane before you replace it.

 

[RockyMountain]

Online Directions?

Thanks all for the great information! I have changed the pre-filter. Is there any online directions that show how to replace the membrane as well as the activated carbon?

 

[MEP001]

The membrane is pretty simple, just remove the pins, slide the end cap out, pull out the old membrane and note which end has the black rubber v-seal and install the new one the same way (Lubricate the ends of the membrane that fit into the holes in the cap as well as the v-seal with silicone grease), and reassemble.

The charcoal filter is a little harder - you need to remove the head and dump out the old stuff and replace the gravel and carbon. It's much easier with two people, but I've done them by myself.

 

[cantbreak80]

That old housing might be a “sticky wicket”. If you have trouble removing the end cap or it’s retaining pins, try this:

Disassemble the fittings from the cap and gently tap the cap into the housing…a sixteenth of an inch…that will relieve the pressure against the retaining pins. Now remove the pins.

Assemble three nipples and a tee and thread it into the end cap. Wedge a pair of prying tools between the housing and the tee and carefully wiggle the end cap free of the housing. Those old PVC parts might be brittle so work carefully.

If you fracture the end cap or need new o-rings…check with HPWS in Denver. They usually have all those replacement parts in stock…They’re prices might be a slightly higher but they’re closer than Crane in Florida, reducing shipping costs and time. Heck, UPS ground service to Casper will likely have the parts to you next day!

As for renewing the carbon filter…once you have the head removed, a wet-dry shop vac is an effective tool to suck out the old material. That makes it a one man job.

 

[Ghetto Wash]

As for renewing the carbon filter?once you have the head removed, a wet-dry shop vac is an effective tool to suck out the old material. That makes it a one man job.

Another good tip found on THE forum.

I've always used the "tip and dump" method which can be a little cumbersome. I've been delaying changing the carbon at one location because it is high up on a shelf. Shop vac will make that a lot easier.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

Mep: How do I replace the gravel and the carbon? I replaced the 5 micron filter and that didn't do a thing. You mention that the gravel and carbon is a cheap fix...what's cheap and where do I get it? I don't want to go and buy a membrane just to burn it up.

Thanks!

 

[jcollins]

That old housing might be a ?sticky wicket?. If you have trouble removing the end cap or it?s retaining pins, try this:

Disassemble the fittings from the cap and gently tap the cap into the housing?a sixteenth of an inch?that will relieve the pressure against the retaining pins. Now remove the pins.

Assemble three nipples and a tee and thread it into the end cap. Wedge a pair of prying tools between the housing and the tee and carefully wiggle the end cap free of the housing. Those old PVC parts might be brittle so work carefully.

The easiest, safest way I've found to get those end caps out without cracking/breaking something is to pull out the retaining pins, wrap a couple rounds of electrical tape around the vessel over the holes for the retaining pins, then snug down a hose clamp on top of the tape over the holes (use 3-4 2" clamps screwed end to end if you need a clamp big enough). Turn on R/O unit, the production pump will push it out without any damage. If any electric motors are close enough to get water in them, cover them with empty salt bags.

 

[MEP001]

I replaced the 5 micron filter and that didn't do a thing.

What is the problem you're having? It's unlikely that replacing the activated charcoal will fix it. All that's for is removing the chlorine so it won't destroy the membrane.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

My spot free isn't spot free. I have a friend who works for a softener company that is going to lend me his tds meter this weekend so I can see what my levels are.

 

[MEP001]

You probably do need a new membrane, but while you have the TDS meter check both the water in the tank and the product directly from the RO unit. If there's soap backing up into the storage tank you won't have spot-free water, but it won't be a result of a problem with the system.

You may be able to find the charcoal locally, and you won't have to pay the freight which will be expensive for a (typically) 75 lb. shipment.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

I'll check the TDS tomorrow. What is a good tds level?

 

[I.B. Washincars]

I'll check the TDS tomorrow. What is a good tds level?

Many say under 030 is good, over 050 usually get spots. I consistently have readings under 005 so I think I have a problem when I see it get into double digits.

 

[MEP001]

I can usually see it spotting at 40. 50 is way too high despite what the manufacturers say. Ours stays so low that it doesn't register on my meter. The unit's display fluctuates between 006 and 007 while it's running.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

Mine was over 100! It was damn near what the rinse water was. I'm going to order a filter asap. I also checked the chlorine level and it was at .05 which is the lowest reading it showed. That's good right?

Where can I get and in-line tds meter so I can monitor the system more accurately?

 

[MEP001]

Did you check for chlorine at the supply to the membrane, the product or the reject? There should be no chlorine getting to the membrane at all, so the charcoal probably needs to be replaced.

I much prefer a hand-held unit, and I test the spot-free at the bay on a regular basis. It will catch problems sooner than just monitoring the unit.