Trough Advice

[Bubbles Galore]

My wash is in desperate need of a behind the scenes refurb job. I need to get a new trough constructed that will allow me to run my HP lines in SS tubing and my LP poly lines in a neat and orderly fashion. Size is somewhat of an issue because I don't want to have to continue to heat a trough that is now triple the size of the existing one (current trough is 6" x 6" of usable space after adding insulation and such). I have 4 bays to the north that I want to have set up in this configuration. It's a jumbled up mess with splices and such and I can't take it anymore...also what do you guys use for your manifolds? I found some good ones on McMaster Carr, but they can get pricey if I go with stainless steel.

Any advice or pictures of your setup would be greatly appreciated. FYI, my trough is fully exposed to the elements on the flat roof of my wash.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Earl Weiss]

My wash is in desperate need of a behind the scenes refurb job. I need to get a new trough constructed that will allow me to run my HP lines in SS tubing and my LP poly lines in a neat and orderly fashion. Size is somewhat of an issue because I don't want to have to continue to heat a trough that is now triple the size of the existing one (current trough is 6" x 6" of usable space after adding insulation and such). I have 4 bays to the north that I want to have set up in this configuration. It's a jumbled up mess with splices and such and I can't take it anymore...also what do you guys use for your manifolds? I found some good ones on McMaster Carr, but they can get pricey if I go with stainless steel.

Any advice or pictures of your setup would be greatly appreciated. FYI, my trough is fully exposed to the elements on the flat roof of my wash.

Thanks in advance!

I would think any metal shop could make runs of Galvanized steel or stainless bent like mine. The bottom section is like a "U" with squared corners on the Bottom and the top lip bent inward to form a lip about one inch wide. The lid is simply a very Shallow "U" inverted so that it sit over the upward U with downward edges being about 1 inch long. The upward U has one inch ridged foam insulation glued to the sides and bottom so the insulation is flush with the top lip. The lid also has on inch insulation leaving a one inch border along the long edges so it sits down and into the upward portion. It was set up to be screwed closed, but I don't do this. I use bungees instead. Much quicker access. Paino Hinge with a latch would be great too.

Since you need less room as you extend toward the furthest bay, you could also reduce the size of the trough after each bay.

Now, I for one like neatness and appearance. But cost and sanity sometimes balance this out. If you have your heart set on this, go for it. Stainless is great and lasts indefinitely, but it is much easier to repair and stock repair parts for braided hose.

 

[Earl Weiss]

This could be slick if yu want to spend the money.

http://www.foxelectricsupply.com/content/products/ProductCatalog.asp?qscategoryId=24625

They may be willing to customize for you.

Don't know how much shipping would add to the project.

 

[Bubbles Galore]

No kidding, that would be perfect!

 

[Mr. Clean]

Galvanized u-shaped trough has worked for us for over 20 yrs. One inch rigid insulation on bottom, side and top makes a warm chase with heated pre-soak circulating. Metal lids aren't really necessary - they look nice but who sees them and are in the way when accessing the inside. Ditto on the HP wire braid hose. Southern Pride has some slick SS manifolds. Don't wait till it gets hot.

 

[mjwalsh]

Any advice or pictures of your setup would be greatly appreciated. FYI, my trough is fully exposed to the elements on the flat roof of my wash.

Thanks in advance!

Bubbles - John,

Ours are 4 inch PVC & we used continuous stainless piano hinge for access--- it was a project about 6 years ago. Like Earl mentioned about hose advantages --- we use good quality 3/8" braided HP hose. We keep labeled spares for the exact lengths that we need in case of an unlikely rupture.

MJ - Mike

 

[Robert2181]

You are 90% there.Don't waste money on steel or gal.IT Will not save you any.Same on manifolds.Heat your trough with it's own small water heater.Not off your floor heater.

 

[MEP001]

Contact a local metal supply place. They can bend sheets of coated metal (Cheaper than galvanized and just as rust- and corrosion-resistant) into all sorts of shapes. I've been considering a trough too and will need it to be almost 100' long. $120 per 4' section would be way too expensive.

 

[Earl Weiss]

Bubbles - John,

Ours are 4 inch PVC & we used continuous stainless piano hinge for access--- it was a project about 6 years ago. Like Earl mentioned about hose advantages --- we use good quality 3/8" braided HP hose. We keep labeled spares for the exact lengths that we need in case of an unlikely rupture.

MJ - Mike

Seems like 4" PVC would be a little crowded for 4 bays worth of Hose. Between Four 3/8" HP Hoses and 40 or so Low Pressure hoses for solutions, and air, plus a trough heat hose. Am I missing something?

 

[mjwalsh]

Seems like 4" PVC would be a little crowded for 4 bays worth of Hose. Between Four 3/8" HP Hoses and 40 or so Low Pressure hoses for solutions, and air, plus a trough heat hose. Am I missing something?

Thanks for catching that Earl. We have tandem bays which meant that we branched out so there is only 3 bays on each 4" PVC. What makes it so forgiving space wise is the fact that we can open the "hatch" via the stainless piano hinge at any spot including any vertical segments. We do not use any insulation --- just getting the hoses & tubing out of the wind seems to help enough considering below 28 degrees we tend to have both entrance & exit doors operating (manually) anyway. The in bay check valves & manifolds are exposed & not inside the trough.

I hope that clarifies things --- I would not want to mislead anyone--- even by an unintended omission!

MJ

 

[ToFarGone20]

I went to my best and oldest HVAC customer...they made a trough for me. It wasn't that expensive and it was EXACTLY how I wanted it.

Another piece of advice (take it or leave it)...pain that sucker black when you are done. It will draw a ton of heat in from the sun. In the winter it melts off fast and if you check the temp it will be the warmest surface ouside your wash. The sun is free...why not use it.

We run our automatic rail heat and a loop through the trough with a residential 40gal water heater (with antifreeze not water). Couple B&G pumps on timers to do the circulating. Last heater made it 18 years.

 

[aberaleigh]

John there is a place right here in Flint that used to make all of our trough for us. The name escapes me at the moment so i'll have to look when I get back to the office. Also getting S.S. manifolds made isn't usually to bad depending on what your looking for. Hmm I think I might even have a couple trough pieces left laying around to.